49COE Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 I am in the process of building a Limited gun using a Para Ordnance gunsmith frame kit. Unfortunately I have hit a snag and I am posting this partially to vent, but mostly to see if anyone else has run across this before and/or has any suggestions for how to remedy it. Basically the problem is that the "notch" in the frame, under the mainspring housing that the "tab" of the sear spring fits into is too low and the sear spring won't reach the sear or the disconector. I have tried several sear springs from other guns, as well as several different brands of new, untouched, springs, and none will work. I checked my set of 1911 blueprints and found the the "notch" was supposed to be .420 from the center of the mainspring pin, mine measures .308, a .112 difference that seems to jive with about how far up the sear spring should go to function correctly. My options, as I see them, are as follows: The first option is to call up Para Ord and see if they will replace the frame since it obviously has a manufacturing defect that won't allow it to function. The problem with this is that I have already fit the slide, bull barrel, made the para ramp cut, machined the bottom of the frame for a S&A magwell, among other things. In short, I have a lot of work into this frame and a lot of expensive parts that are fit to this particular frame. Getting a new frame has some appeal in getting Para to fix their mistake, but I'm not sure that it is worth it. That is even assuming that they would replace it. I bought this frame kit from a local gunshop that had it on consignment and I don't know how that combined with some of the machine work done to the frame figures into Para's perception of thier warranty responsibilities. The second option is to suck it up, tig weld the original notch, buy a 1/32 end mill, and make a new notch. This is probably what I will end up doing, but I think that it sucks because I think that it goes a little beyond what I should have to do to build this gun, and because it is more than likely that I will break at least one end mill trying to cut a slot that small. The third option is probably just a pipe dream, but what the hell... Does anyone know if there is such a thing as an extra long sear spring? This would obviously be the easiest and best solution. Anyway, thanks for letting me vent and hopefully there is someone out there with a good idea or some advice, or even just a "that sucks dude". Oh, actually I just thought of the best option yet, I call up Para and they agree to send me a S_I frame. - Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpl Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Para's are different than "traditional" 1911's. They require a longer spring to work, as you have discovered. Dawson stocks the correct ones and I think you can get them directly from Wolff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49COE Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 Thank You, I feel a little dumb, but I am much relieved. I just placed an order to Dawson and hopefully I can get through the rest of this build without inventing any more problems that aren't really there. - Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Para's are different than "traditional" 1911's. They require a longer spring to work, as you have discovered. Dawson stocks the correct ones and I think you can get them directly from Wolff. News to me. When did they start needing special sear springs? My 10+ year old Para's work fine with standard springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Some older paras have the notch about 3/16" lower than what a normal sear spring would use. Took a small cut off wheel to my para, made another thin slot and now it works on normal springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 I could be wrong, but I dont think the Dawson sear springs are any longer. They're "pre-tuned" for the Para's geometry, and they also sell an STI version. I've used several brands in mine with no problems. Swede Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cking Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 I've got old para frame kit. and my slot is a little low, not as much as you've stated. Let us know how the Dawson spring works. Maybe it will be long and you can then fit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 The SVI Triglide sear spring comes in two flavors, the high cap and the 1911. The highcap spring is both a little longer and a little wider. I installed the highcap sear spring in mine and had to do a little trimming. I later spoke with one of the Infinity people and they advised in this case to go with the 1911 sear spring in the future. In your case, the high cap spring might be just right. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49COE Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 Thanks for the replies guys. The Dawson spring is on the way so I guess I'll just have to wait and see if it is longer when it gets here. If not I'll look into that SVI spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtypool40 Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 (edited) I have the same problem with an SPS grip I was fooling around with. For whatever reason, they cut the notch low and make a slightly longer sear spring. Lemmee know if the Dawson one doesn't work, I'll send you one of my extras. Edited April 26, 2007 by dirtypool40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
49COE Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 Well, I got the Dawson spring and it does fit, but just barely. Certainly not well enough to inspire any confidence in it. When the trigger is pulled it looks like it is almost ready to slip under the sear. I don't think that it is supposed to be any longer than a regular spring, this particular on is just a bit longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gans Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Well, I got the Dawson spring and it does fit, but just barely. Certainly not well enough to inspire any confidence in it. When the trigger is pulled it looks like it is almost ready to slip under the sear. I don't think that it is supposed to be any longer than a regular spring, this particular on is just a bit longer. If you want to take a chance, you can try heating the tab at the bottom and flattening it out some. That will make the spring a little longer. You might put a vise grip or C-clamp up where the prongs start. It will act as a heat sink so that you don't mess up the heat treatment there. If you don't get the tab hot enough though, you will crack it off when you start to flatten it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Some older paras have the notch about 3/16" lower than what a normal sear spring would use.Took a small cut off wheel to my para, made another thin slot and now it works on normal springs. -this is what needs to be done in lieu of calling para up and getting their proprietary sear spring. why trust the operation of a pistol to a mismatched part, pliers, and a blowtorch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe4d Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Call Para, they have been pretty helpful in the past for me, Probably send you a new spring for little to nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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