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Spring Weights


Jager1147

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I run the stock spring whenever I can. ;)

If you run loads so light that the brass doesn't eject very far, then a lighter spring is in order.

If you go real light you run the risk of:

- not having enough energy to strip a round from the magazine

- the slide/barrel not locking up in full battery

- the very act of pulling the trigger over-powering the recoil spring and allowing the slide/barrel to come unlocked

There needs to be a balance.

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I have tried lighter springs, but all at the cost of reliability. Get the recoil spring down where it feels good, shoots flat and fast and you have to reduce the striker spring. Reduce the striker spring and you have light hits. There might be a balance there somewhere that can be found to make it better, but I just don't believe it is much better.

Stock striker springs and stock recoil springs for me. My number one priority is reliability. One, just one, jam can cost you a couple places in the match. I want reliable equipment that puts me in the match, from there it is up to me to perform.

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On a G35 I use a 14 lb recoil spring and a 4 lb wolf striker spring over a Ti striker. BUT you MUST use Federal primers.

With the above set up you will get some failures to ignite (light hits) on other primers, namely Winchester.

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i found out that the lightened steel striker performed better than Ti when using light striker springs, the striker marks on my primers were deeper......well they sure looked deeper, cos i dont have an instrument to measure depth of striker marks. YMMV.

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+1 on the lwt steel with the 4# spring. It pops every primer I have tried - Federal, CCI or Winchester. I run a 12# Wolf in everything except my carry gun.

Edited by Joe D
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Thanks guys,

You're all over the map! :o

I'm having springs made for guide rods I manufacture, and I didn't know which weight spring to start with. I think I'll start with stock weight springs and see how that goes.

Thanks, jager

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  • 3 weeks later...

With regular parts (striker, striker spring etc) I have had good luck with a 15lb. Reliable, flat shooting and consistantly locked into battery. I tried a 13 but it would not pass the test of holding trigger back and muzzle pointed up and slowly releasing slide into battery. This is what I was taught in armorer school. I'm not sure how guys are running a clipped 13...

Edited by Hany
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I had the same experience as Hany, though my problem was that the 11#'ers rapidly compressed and allowed the slide to pull back out of battery, and the 13#'ers wouldn't hold the slide closed if I really slammed a reload.

Kevin

edit for clarification

Edited by kevin c
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Thanks guys,

You're all over the map! :o

I'm having springs made for guide rods I manufacture, and I didn't know which weight spring to start with. I think I'll start with stock weight springs and see how that goes.

Thanks, jager

Why reinvent the wheel? Is the benefit of having springs made (by some unknown entity) so great that it's better than sizing the guiderod to take ISMI or Wolff springs?

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I only run factory type standard pressure ammo in my competition G17.

14 lb. Wolff recoil spring worked fine with Carver hunter Aimpoint mount.

When I put the 9mm major comp on, I had to go down to a 10 lb. ISMI 1911 recoil spring and a G22/G23/G24/G27/G35 ejector.

Springs are from Vanek production trigger kit. Striker is stock, but polished. Noooo problem with Winchester primers, or CCI Blazer Brass ammo.

Believe it or not, even a 9 lb. 1911 spring passed the vertical test with this set-up.... it just wouldn't close the slide all the way after the first shot.

Edited by Suburban Commando
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