Jager1147

my website sucks....

Wow! I should log in once in a while, didn't know I ever left - been a vendor here since 2007 (or so I thought!) Hope you guys and girls had a great year, and to say thanks to all of you let me offer the members here a 20% discount code, good until the end of the month. Just enter ENOS20 in the redemption code box, and you'll receive 20% off my manufactured items only: guide rods, compensators and strikers. (and springs, why not). Thank you Brian for all the years of the forum, and thanks to all of you for the years of support. New website finally in the works for next year! DVC, Billy

I haven’t done it, but I have put triggers in these. You’ll have more sear engagement so using the cut away cover plate you can see. I’ve cut the leg of the striker down hair for a killer trigger, but of course be careful you’re in uncharted territory.

Still have this?

I think your setup is pretty good as is. You can also try some bill drills with the 13# and the 14# and see which of your springs makes the dot behave best. I don't think the 17# will give you any more appreciable wear on your frame. jager

You are correct - Wolff only for the heavy rods. Sorry, contact form on the site not working, but the email address listed does. Thanks! Billy

The ISMI 13# will take a set after a while, remember to change approximately every 3000 rounds. I think of it like an oil change at every 3000 miles.... Good idea to perform the in battery test as well. Empty pistol pointed up vertically, and slowly depress the trigger. Slide movement = too light recoil spring for your striker spring. (Or too heavy striker spring for your recoil spring). Oh, website finally fixed sorry guys for the delays in shipping. Thanks, Billy

Happy New Year guys! Yes, I worked with CCF for a little while and developed a CCF specific guide rod system to help with the frame battering problem with the .40 S&W. I looked around my shop and I found one. basically it was a polymer rod with an extra thick head at the back, a soft nylon bumper and flat wire recoil spring wound specifically for the system. This allowed the recoil guide rod and bumper to take about 50% of the load from impact due to the "almost" short stroke. It worked, and frames no longer suffered the battering using my rod. CCF folded, and I learned a lesson. Anyway, I stopped making them since there really were so few out there. Now there's a few tricks that can help. First, in order to use the polymer rod you need to grind down a molding flaw, a "dimple" that is raised in the frame where the guide rod head sits. the second issue they had was locking blocks failing. They were machined with incorrect angles and dimensions causing the failures. I showed CCF what the locking blocks need to look like, and then they ran with my block to another vendor. Anyway, the best solution here was to take the OEM locking block, cut off the bridge and hand fit it to the frame with emery paper after rounding the edges to fit. Bombproof. Thanks, I rarely visit the forum but Happy and Healthy New Year to all! Look for a fat discount coupon to members soon! I'll post in vendor forum after I tackle my webmaster.... later, Billy

Sorry, my contact form is not working. There’s an email address listed on the contact page, that comes to me. Yes, I’m Gen. 5 the guide rods we have are the same for the 17 and the 34.

You got some good advice above. try a few spring weights and do some double tap drills and bill drills to confirm what works best for your setup. later, billy

Anyone else pay for a Krytos TI slide and never hear from them again? Seemed like nice guys, met at NRA convention in 2017. paid for slide, and gone.....

Hey guys, Looks like I goofed up. somehow some of my Gen. 5 rods (either G17G5CS or G17G5CSH) slipped through without the proper heat treat. Some, not all. You'll know immediately if all the color comes off. My greatest apologies, and I'll replace them if you were unlucky enough to get one of these from me. Just ship it back, and I'll include a recoil spring of your choice to cover the shipping back. Sorry...…. Thanks, Jager

Did you try the Gen. 4 rod for the G35? It’s a little longer than the G17 rod

PM replied to. Updating the site to add the Gen. 5 G34 rods, thanks!

Contact me I’ll make it right.

Yes, the rod for the 17 also fits the 34.

CCF Raceframes rebranded? I still have the buffered recoil assemblies I developed for them to stop the rails from cracking.....

Not for the Gen. 4, our captured rods are specific to 17 or the 34. Slightly different lengths.

Check sear engagement. Try racking slide slowly while pulling up on slide with trigger depressed. If sear engagement on striker leg is inadequate, the striker will release when you release the trigger. Have you live fired without going full auto?

I know they can be a little tight at first, but only in some guns for some reason. This helps too. Once the finish breaks it installs easier. On the .270 larger rods I made sure to have the ID on the bushing a bit larger, have not had any feedback on those. I just made a new rod, the larger .270 diameter but uncaptured and extended. Someone want to try one and tell me how it runs? Please contact me by email, not on the boards much. Thanks, Billy

Sounds like inadequate striker/trigger bar engagement. Check sear engagement with cutaway cover plate.

True. That's the advantage of a Glock. Trigger work for my STI goes out, but anyone can drop in parts for Glock trigger work. To an earlier post, the lightened striker makes running the light striker springs more reliable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The key is pushing with your one thumb against the back of the guide rod in a straight direction toward the muzzle, while gently keeping the guide rod/spring assembly perpendicular to the barrel. Clicks right into place. Muscling it only results in frustration.

Email me your shipping address. jager

LeviSS, You're in! Thanks Blind Bat!