Ted Murphy Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Put about 80 rounds through my new 625 at a match tonight. Damn screw backed out and I lost the cylinder on a reload. Fortunately I bought these nice foam pads for the shooters to kneel on. CYlinder landed right on one. Odd thing is I tightened the screw just prior to the match. Guess i have to find some purple loctite or something. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlktheduk Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Ted, I feel your pain. I firmly believe that there are two types of wheelgunners...those who have dropped the cylinder, and those who will drop the cylinder As for that loctite solution....just pour a tube of red loctite into that hole, and tighten up that screw. Let set-up overnight...and the cylinder will never fall out again. (of course, nothing else will move on that wheel gun either ) JUST KIDDING...PLEASE DO NOT DO THAT Serious suggestion time: If it is one of the newer side plate screws (yoke screw assembly, S&W part # 219860000, Brownell's stock #940-191-390)), with a spring behind the plunger, that screw might need to be replaced. If the spring/plunger combination has lost it's tension, the screw can back out easily under recoil. When that happens, the cylinder and yoke can and will fall out. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I routinely put a little blue loctite on the threads, and once I get the gun set up right I usually don't run the yoke screw in and out very often. I also use blue loctite on pretty much all the screws, including the strain screw (which I also torque down hard), the bolt threads at the thumb latch, and the screw that holds down the front of the adjustable rear sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihatepickles Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 It's an old trick but it works, take the screw out and place it on a hard smooth surface (like the anvil on a vise) and with a smooth faced hammer (ball peen) tap on the threads. Tapping on the threads will peen them slightly which will increase the friction when the screw is reinstalled. It's easy to get wrong, so go slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I routinely use blue loctite on the screws in my revolver. Strain screws, crane screws and sight screws come to mine with vivid memories, usually all bad It's a real humbling moment when you have to pick your cylinder up off the ground.... dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I never Locktite any screws and have never lost one. If you need a new one, no need to bother brownell, call S&W and they will send you one. While you are at it, get that little small one for the sight assembly. I have seen a lot of people loose those too. A little clear finger nail polish works great on the threads and you can probably just get that from your make up kit Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Murphy Posted February 28, 2006 Author Share Posted February 28, 2006 We'll see. This gun is some kind of Unicorn. It is finally very nice, but it was 4 times back to S&W. I guess all the times they broke it down finally did the screw in. I've done the blue/purple loctite on screws before, just hate doing it. One gun I bought used had red (!!!!) loctite on it. That was fun. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I certainly have a hate-hate relationship with these dern revolver screws. The single slotted screw head has been obsolete in machinery applications for what, 30-40 years? If not eliminated entirely they should be changed to a more respectable head type at a minimum. Allen, Torx, heck, even a Phillips head would be an improvement over the multiple sizes of single slotted screws *still* used on new revolvers here in the 21st century. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I believe Power Custom makes hex-head sideplate screws, but I'm not sure they ever updated it to the new-style plungered yoke screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I check the screw before each match and then again, I'm stubborn so I check it before each stage, if it backed out at all I turn it back in with my fingernail. Real scientific huh? I locktite the strain screw so maybe I should locktight the plunger/yoke screw as well. But the real question is... If the cylinder falls to the ground do you pick it up, put it back in and continue or do you stop? The couple of times it did happen I'd reinstall it and continue, who cares about time, it's all for fun at that point. But I always learned that You Never Give UP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I believe Power Custom makes hex-head sideplate screws, but I'm not sure they ever updated it to the new-style plungered yoke screw. Yeah, I saw some of the side plate screws, but with the yoke screw and strain screw being more critical and more problematic I haven't bothered with the other two. The grip would probably hold the side plate on if *both* of the other screws fell completely out! But if you lose either the yoke or strain screw you go out of business instantly. We're just too small a market segment to capture the interest of the custom doo-dad producers I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 There you go, Walt--a fantastic marketing idea--the late-night infomercial (hosted by Michael Bane with guest star Lisa Farrell) might go something like this: Listen up revolver shooters.....you've heard of the "Jerry Grip" and the "Randy Hammer".....now Mitty Enterprises and Hearthco Laboratories have teamed up to bring you the hottest new roundgun product since 1899...the "Spru Screws"!!.....custom made from lightweight titanium to eliminate nearly all that peening and rotational torque that you get from ordinary screws, the "Spru Screws" come with their own TORX wrench that works equally well as a screwer and an unscrewer.....what would you expect to pay for this REVOlutionary advancement??.....the "Spru Screws" can be yours today for just three easy payments of $19.95 each, plus shipping and handling....not available in stores. Dave drop-ships them straight to the customer, you retire tomorrow, your cash is wired to you each week as you travel from match to match in your 90-foot custom motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Murphy Posted February 28, 2006 Author Share Posted February 28, 2006 I believe Power Custom makes hex-head sideplate screws, but I'm not sure they ever updated it to the new-style plungered yoke screw. B Square makes a set. I have used them before. In fact, I have a set somewhere. IIRC you have to fit the screw as it is not plungered. But the real question is... If the cylinder falls to the ground do you pick it up, put it back in and continue or do you stop? I continued FWIW. match in question allowed BUG's so I finished with a J frame. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 There you go, Walt--a fantastic marketing idea--the late-night infomercial (hosted by Michael Bane with guest star Lisa Farrell) might go something like this:Listen up revolver shooters.....you've heard of the "Jerry Grip" and the "Randy Hammer".....now Mitty Enterprises and Hearthco Laboratories have teamed up to bring you the hottest new roundgun product since 1899...the "Spru Screws"!!.....custom made from lightweight titanium to eliminate nearly all that peening and rotational torque that you get from ordinary screws, the "Spru Screws" come with their own TORX wrench that works equally well as a screwer and an unscrewer.....what would you expect to pay for this REVOlutionary advancement??.....the "Spru Screws" can be yours today for just three easy payments of $19.95 each, plus shipping and handling....not available in stores. Dave drop-ships them straight to the customer, you retire tomorrow, your cash is wired to you each week as you travel from match to match in your 90-foot custom motorhome. Right, and for tooling and start up costs of only ~$250,000.00 I could probably sell between what, 47 and 123 sets of them?? Of course the product name would be Screwells, it would roll off the tongue better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Guess you'd have to go MIM. You sell-out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Guess you'd have to go MIM. You sell-out. Bah! Why even bother with metal? We'll just injection mold Zytel (plastic) and ship them in bags of 25 assorted colors so you can match your screws to your sight color for the match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlktheduk Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Zytel PLASTIC sideplate screws....what's next, entire sideplates in assorted decorator colors... I smell a plot by the Tupperware Gunners to infect our precious wheelguns with PLASTIC FANTASTIC "Resistance is futile" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 My gawd does it never end! Hey Walt if you're going the plastic molding injection route, try selling a color coordinated set of: Grips, Screw, Ejection Rod (should be easier on the hand) and Cylinder Latch. Maybe inset programmable LED's that can flash a name or catch phrase? Maybe some of the Limited guys will get enraptured with the pretty bobbles and we all know what happens once you actually try a Revo. Kind of like Golf, you love to hate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Zytel PLASTIC sideplate screws....what's next, entire sideplates in assorted decorator colors...I smell a plot by the Tupperware Gunners to infect our precious wheelguns with PLASTIC FANTASTIC "Resistance is futile" Yes, you WILL be assimilated. Leave your forged, cast, and machined parts, along with all your stone tools at the door.... My gawd does it never end!Hey Walt if you're going the plastic molding injection route, try selling a color coordinated set of: Grips, Screw, Ejection Rod (should be easier on the hand) and Cylinder Latch. Maybe inset programmable LED's that can flash a name or catch phrase? Maybe some of the Limited guys will get enraptured with the pretty bobbles and we all know what happens once you actually try a Revo. Kind of like Golf, you love to hate it. Yeah, I played around with some resin product called "Edge Glow" IIRC. It's the stuff that glows brightly along the cut edges of the piece. So you would form the sideplate, engrave the backside of it with interesting stuff, then when the light hit it it would glow like a neon sign in a rainbow of colors. Perhaps a row of mini-LEDs sequencing toward the muzzle to give it that "Rail-Gun" look. Yep, that and a splatter paint job on some grips and we could have us a division going here! OOOPS!! Sorry for the thread drift... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Right On, Walt! Gotta get a Rail Gun. Man I KNOW that's what I need to get all A's! Kind of like an Airport Runway look, guides them bullets right into the zone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I routinely put a little blue loctite on the threads, and once I get the gun set up right I usually don't run the yoke screw in and out very often. I also use blue loctite on pretty much all the screws, including the strain screw (which I also torque down hard), the bolt threads at the thumb latch, and the screw that holds down the front of the adjustable rear sight. +1. I also blue loctite the ejector rod assembly. Never had one work it's way loose onto the front lock (even when I did have a front lock on my guns) but I've heard it's a real bear to tighten that rod while it's IN the gun. I haven't dropped a cylinder, YET, but I have had the screw that holds the thumb latch come off. I got lucky and found everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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