Waltermitty Posted January 27, 2006 Share Posted January 27, 2006 Hey Guys,Here is my rendition of the "Claw" Hammer. I wanted it to fill the void behind the hammer without losing the benefit of skeletonizing. Hope the pictures come through well enough for you to see. Jim [attac ment=3576:attachment] oooooooooooo....I'm gonna do one like that and one like Mike's ('cause I wanna be like Mike) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniele Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 Hi everybody from Italy. Looking at those skinny hammer I understand why I am only an A shooter: I need something similar, I must have it! Only problem I am unable to find a supplier for a spare MIM hammer for my S&W 646 ( nor Brownell's nor Numrich have such an item) Anyone out there has one to sell? Ciao Daniele Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 28, 2006 Author Share Posted January 28, 2006 Wouldn't it be the same MIM hammer as, say, a current production 686? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R112mercer Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 (edited) Hi everybody from Italy.Looking at those skinny hammer I understand why I am only an A shooter: I need something similar, I must have it! Only problem I am unable to find a supplier for a spare MIM hammer for my S&W 646 ( nor Brownell's nor Numrich have such an item) Anyone out there has one to sell? Ciao Daniele "Only an A shooter..." Hey bub, there's some of us in B class who would be happy to be in A class, wanna trade? Seriously, can somebody get this guy a new hammer, and a partridge front sight too. Maybe we can swap for some of that prosciutto they've got over there... Edited January 28, 2006 by R112mercer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 What about just ordering a new hammer directly from Smith? If anyone wants to know the tools I used to make mine, I'm more than happy to share. I used a sharpie to mark were the hammer protruded from the frame, when at rest, and when the trigger is pulled. Then just cleared away the area in the middle. I used a 4" angle grinder to hog out the big stuff. (If your not used to working with one of these, this is not the time to learn!!! Or you will be learning to shoot lefty). I also used my Dremel with a diamond tipped bit to get close to the rough shape. The most important piece to have the finished look, was a 3 inch drum sander mounted on a drill press. First with a 100 grit paper, then went to 600 grit dry emery paper, then 600 grit wet (w/rem oil) emery paper. All while constantly moving the drum up and down. Then I put on the buffing wheel and went through 4 stages of rouge. All total took about 8 hours, with breaks and being very careful. You have always heard measure twice / cut once. This is a case where I measured 5-10 times then sanded once. I had a printout of Mikes laying on the bench the whole time I was working. Thanks for sharing Mike. (No wonder everyone wants to be like you). One problem I noted with the MIM. The seams from the forming had some areas that were below the plane of the rest of the piece. I couldn't get these out without losing material from the main piece. They are below frame anyway, so I stopped where I had to. No one will see it, but it makes my OCD flare up from time to time. If you look in one of the pictures, you can also see my low tech trigger stop. Clear Silicone. I just a large blob onto the back of the trigger. When it is still soft, but not tacky to the touch, squeeze the trigger until the hammer falls. Use a bread tie to tie off the trigger at that point. Wait for the silicone to harden. Release the bread tie, and trim with an exacto knife. Works perfect. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooper_999 Posted January 28, 2006 Share Posted January 28, 2006 (edited) Hi everybody from Italy.Looking at those skinny hammer I understand why I am only an A shooter: I need something similar, I must have it! Only problem I am unable to find a supplier for a spare MIM hammer for my S&W 646 ( nor Brownell's nor Numrich have such an item) Anyone out there has one to sell? Ciao Daniele Hi Daniele, did you try to contact Ralf Merkle? Igor ordered there the "Merkle Cylinder Opener" as far as I know. So, I think you can get there the hammer you need! Tell Sylvia and Ralf greetings from me... DVC! Sascha Edited January 28, 2006 by cooper_999 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniele Posted January 29, 2006 Share Posted January 29, 2006 Carmoney:Wouldn't it be the same MIM hammer as, say, a current production 686? Yes I think so. R112mercer:and a partridge front sight too. Actually I change grips and front sight: I am using a home made fiber optic. R112mercer:Maybe we can swap for some of that prosciutto they've got over there... Sure, of course and while on the subject, look for Prosciutto di Parma or Prosciutto S.Daniele; they are 2 top quality Italian brands Aerosigns:What about just ordering a new hammer directly from Smith? I contacted S&W about the 646, no reply! I ordered a PC case and other stuff, they delivered! Cooper999:did you try to contact Ralf Merkle? Thanks for this info, will try also this way R112mercer:"Only an A shooter..." Yes, I am A class shooter in Open division, I got A shooting Major in Limited, same classification even with Minor so I tried with a Revolver, 686 and speed loaders ( A class), then 625 and FMC (A), in 2005 finally the ULTIMATE GUN : a 646 and I got...... A class! Maybe it is not the gun but the shooter? Ciao a tutti ( hi everybody) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) Couldnt resist! Edited January 30, 2006 by hearthco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.carden Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) No.......... not you too Dave!!! And what's that Olympic-sized diving platform hang'n off the top. Where'd you get that sight? I want one of those. Dan.. Edited January 30, 2006 by D.carden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 LPA Site Also it can be gotten from Randy Lee at ApexTactical.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 No.......... not you too Dave!!!And what's that Olympic-sized diving platform hang'n off the top. Where'd you get that sight? I want one of those. Dan.. Yes it is the LPA site. I love it cause it looks just like a bomar. I discovered you could hang it on by one screw and pick up about 5/8 of an inch in sight radius. Randy Lee's reply was " Thats just wrong on so many levels" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Hey, bring that baby back another 18" and replace the blade with a peep aperture, then you'd really have something! (Can't wait to hear the price.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 ...I saw one of these about three weeks ago at a "Steel Challenge"-type match...while it APPEARS to be a robust, well made sight, the rear notch is VERY narrow, IMHO...FWIW....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lee Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 The sight is well made and Smith just ordered about 350 of them(Hmmmmm...). They run $85.00- although I noticed Hamilton Bowen's sight looks pretty good at $99.00. The LPA sight notch is shallow in depth, but I'm working with Jay Hart of PSI to make a rear leaf just for us action shooters -deeper and wider. Sounds like a South Park movie. I'll also have new .100 wide front sights available in the the upcoming year. Oh, and a new firing pin! Dave, I'm going to put a picatinny rail on the back of your new gun, slap on a ghost ring rear sight and a NM Globe front sight. 36" sight radius- no waiting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 There ya go! Sweeney will love it for those 75-yard international long shots he gets all worried about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Hey guys, I checked the trigger pull on my 'Claw' hammer. Using a crude scale it came out at slightly over 3 lbs. My two 686's are between 4 and 5, but with the full hammer. They will all fire any brand of off the shelf ammo, or reloads. So this went well so far. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Wow, 3+ pounds -- dude, you're in Randy-land! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lee Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Well it's about time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Dave: I'd be careful about using that sight the way you installed it. Put it on using both screws or you are in violation of ICORE rules for Limited which states: 6. A revolver must compete in the Open Division if it has one or more of the following modifications: C. A rib sight, a front sight that extends beyond the muzzle, or a rear sight that extends beyond or behind a factory manufactured sight's location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Hey guys,I checked the trigger pull on my 'Claw' hammer. Using a crude scale it came out at slightly over 3 lbs. My two 686's are between 4 and 5, but with the full hammer. They will all fire any brand of off the shelf ammo, or reloads. So this went well so far. Jim I have soooooo much to learn. I've got my "Carmonized" hammer gun (aka "A" gun) down to about 5.25 lbs average double action pull with good reliability. But this is after running off the road with a Wolff reduced power rib spring and shortened strain screw setup. It's hard for me to comprehend only 3+lbs working. I just don't have the time to make sure all of my moons and primers are perfect. So I'm shooting more for minimum total pull with typical match conditions, i.e. less-than-perfect moons running reloads made up the night before in a dirty gun. Cause that's where I live. I would love to figure out how to get another pound off, much less two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Dave:I'd be careful about using that sight the way you installed it. Put it on using both screws or you are in violation of ICORE rules for Limited which states: 6. A revolver must compete in the Open Division if it has one or more of the following modifications: C. A rib sight, a front sight that extends beyond the muzzle, or a rear sight that extends beyond or behind a factory manufactured sight's location. AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!! I hate Fa King rules!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ...I saw one of these about three weeks ago at a "Steel Challenge"-type match...while it APPEARS to be a robust, well made sight, the rear notch is VERY narrow, IMHO...FWIW....mikey357 Nothing that cant be fixed with a .062 carbide end mill Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 I have soooooo much to learn. I've got my "Carmonized" hammer gun (aka "A" gun) down to about 5.25 lbs average double action pull with good reliability. But this is after running off the road with a Wolff reduced power rib spring and shortened strain screw setup. It's hard for me to comprehend only 3+lbs working. I just don't have the time to make sure all of my moons and primers are perfect. So I'm shooting more for minimum total pull with typical match conditions, i.e. less-than-perfect moons running reloads made up the night before in a dirty gun. Cause that's where I live. I would love to figure out how to get another pound off, much less two. Jim said he's using a "crude scale." I might just have to take my trigger pull guage up to the WI Sectional to see how much that trigger pull actually is! Seriously though, 3+ pounds is pretty frickin' light--maybe too frickin' light for most of us who aren't completely and impractically anal about our ammo and moonclips, and who aren't afraid to shoot our guns loose with major power loads year in and year out (i.e. USPSA revo division). As I have posted before, I have seen several notable shooters with those super-light actions go "click" in the middle of a major match....I won't identify them here, they know who they are. I keep mine between 5 and 6 pounds, even with the lowered hammer mass. I'd rather have a little reliability margin, and I'm very pleased with the way my actions feel. Then again, who knows, maybe I'm missing the boat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 ...hey Dave, I don't HAVE a .062 Carbide end mill...just a coupla' REAL narrow, fine-cut pillar files...they work REAL GOOD on the MIM'ed Millett rear blades I sometimes use...how would they work on that EXPENSIVE Eye-talian steel???....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerosigns Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 Mike, I would like to try your scale. 'Cuz I don't have those luxury tools. I was also thinking along your line, and am glad to read the thoughts from you guys. I have considered returning to a heavier main spring, for a more positive ignition. I worry about it being too light until I have time to learn more. But I now have the ability to dial the trigger pull exactly where I want it. 4.5 lbs would be where I would like so that it matches my .45 Auto. Thanks for the guidance. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hearthco Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 ...hey Dave, I don't HAVE a .062 Carbide end mill...just a coupla' REAL narrow, fine-cut pillar files...they work REAL GOOD on the MIM'ed Millett rear blades I sometimes use...how would they work on that EXPENSIVE Eye-talian steel???....mikey357 PLEEEEEEEEESE!!!!!!!! Dont get me going with that "EXPENSIVE Eye-talian steel" comment. Your files should work just fine. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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