Broke Off My Safety? Sti

[AlamoShooter]

Just broke off my safety the second time in four years. It is an STI with an Ed Brown Ambri. I normaly shoot minor steel loads. And I don't have the muscle tone I used to, but am I just to hard on it? I had a singal stack for ten years before I boke it off. This is #2 to break on the race gun.

Should I go with a one side safety?

Edited January 1, 2006 by AlamoShooter

[Precision40]

Just broke off my safety the second time in four years. It is an STI Ambri. I normaly shoot minor steel loads. And I don't have the muscle tone I used to, but am I just to hard on it? I had a singal stack for ten years before I boke it off. This is #2 to break on the race gun.

Should I go with a one side safety?

Left side broke both time? If so I don't see where going to a single-sided safety would help. I have big Fred Flintstone Thumbs and am hard on my safeties as well. Ed Brown makes an awesome safety and I've never had any breakage.

[AlamoShooter]

Ed Brown makes an awesome safety and I've never had any breakage.

Yep, left side, it is/was an Ed Brown . I couldn't see any reason why a one side would make any diferenc. and if I shoot left hand it is nice to have my thumb high

The question on my part was dumb mayby, just need to feal like I don't need to order a spare one too.

[Singlestack]

Holy Crap! I thought I was the only person that broke thumb safeties!

At least I know there is another. I broke a left side Ed Brown too. Several cheaper ones as well. I have no clue how I do it either.

[Anthony Lombardo]

STI brand thumb safeties are MIM.

Nuff said.

[AlamoShooter]

STI brand thumb safeties are MIM.

Nuff said.

I must be D U M? = I don't know what MIM is

I didn't intend to say it was an STI safety, just that is was on an STI

I figured Sat shoot was the last chance for it to dig at me, as I had just changed the scope out so that wouldn't break.

[diehli]

STI brand thumb safeties are MIM.

Nuff said.

I must be D U M? = I don't know what MIM is

I didn't intend to say it was an STI safety, just that is was on an STI

I figured Sat shoot was the last chance for it to dig at me, as I had just changed the scope out so that wouldn't break.

Metal Injection Molding. Powdered metal is turned into the part. They aren't as durable as machined counterparts.

[AlamoShooter]

Well?

What kind of safety does a 300 Bl Gorila use? Does the Brown hold up for you?

Maybe my smith just wonted the safety to blend in nicer than should be?

One of my thoughts was that posibly the Ambri link in the center allowed it to 'tork over more than a regular one?

[wide45]

I'd bet nobody makes a fully machined safety.

Your choices are investment cast, or MIM.

[Anthony Lombardo]

I'd bet nobody makes a fully machined safety.

Your choices are investment cast, or MIM.

SVI makes a machined from barstock thumb safety. It is 2x the price but sure is a puty part.

[.40AET]

SVI makes a machined from barstock thumb safety. It is 2x the price but sure is a puty part.

Hmmm.....I broke two of them. I just couldn't get the hang of putting them back together. I think the key to getting them to last is that both sides rest on the frame. When you put pressure on them they don't have any torque on the parts.

[shred]

What exactly broke? As a lefty I break ambi Ed Brown (and anybody else's I've tried) safties with some regularity-- with the contouring I have to do to fit my knuckles, eventually the pin either snaps off at one end or the other or the joint itself breaks.

Lightening the activation force helps, as does making sure the paddle bottoms out before the joint torques a lot, but nothing seems 100%.

[AlamoShooter]

What exactly broke?

Lightening the activation force helps, as does making sure the paddle bottoms out before the joint torques a lot, but nothing seems 100%.

Well Thanks, I do feel better now.= It broke even at the side.

It was contoured and I can see that both sides contacted the frame to bottom out.

I had just changed out my scope too becuse it was always breaking.

I have new Ed Brown comeing from Shooters Conection.

I just hope Dan Bendel dosen't come after me for my spelling

,, I never broke a safety on my revolver and my reloads are about the same speed too,, and ,,,

[BSeevers]

I break so many Ed Browns I carry a fitted set with me

[Radical Precision Designs]

SVI makes a machined from barstock thumb safety. It is 2x the price but sure is a puty part.

Hmmm.....I broke two of them. I just couldn't get the hang of putting them back together. I think the key to getting them to last is that both sides rest on the frame. When you put pressure on them they don't have any torque on the parts.

None of these parts are really meant to fit any specific gun as they come by just "minor" fitting (at the sear). Therein in lies the written part of the "warranty" that specifies those parts are intended to be installed/FITTED by a "competent" gunsmith... Not to mean that a shooter with a good "eye to detail and handi-work" can not do it. But you must pay attention to detail, especially with the "floating right side" of these safeties, for left handed users. Also when they interlock tightly, be carefull as you "pry" that side out as the metal sometimes is quite brittle ( a characteristic of MIM process) and sometimes just a tiny bit of leverage is enough to "snap" them at the joint. I have snapped a few of the C. m'CK's in stainless that were a tiny bit misaligned just by pressing them in to lay flat against the right side of the frame, much to my chagrin. But never and Ed Brown or a Wilson, which are my favorites. Again fitting these parts require a bit of grinding and file work to clear the frame without "scratching" or binding. And if you "ride the safety", as most of us do, you must indeed set a stop/rest, either in the frame or the grip stocks, and always make sure that the safety engages without undue upwards pressure, as you can either break them or "unspring" the interlock to the point that it will be useless.

In another note. Be carefull when you install these safeties. I have seen too many safeties that will allow the trigger to be pulled because of improper fitting, making that firearm unsafe and unfit to participate in competition where "cocked and LOCKED" is mandatory.

Be safe always.

[AlamoShooter]

SVI makes a machined from barstock thumb safety. It is 2x the price but sure is a puty part.

Hmmm.....I broke two of them. I just couldn't get the hang of putting them back together. I think the key to getting them to last is that both sides rest on the frame. When you put pressure on them they don't have any torque on the parts.

None of these parts are really meant to fit any specific gun as they come by just "minor" fitting (at the sear). Therein in lies the written part of the "warranty" that specifies those parts are intended to be installed/FITTED by a "competent" gunsmith...

In another note. Be carefull when you install these safeties. I have seen too many safeties that will allow the trigger to be pulled because of improper fitting, making that firearm unsafe and unfit to participate in competition where "cocked and LOCKED" is mandatory.

Be safe always.

Yes Thanks for your note = my safety on this gun is definitly fitted at the sear, I don't like the idea of an average drop in safety fits all for every one. So thanks for pointing that out. I know on this one I will take it will not allow !any! sear movment. with out draging on it. I had some spring problem with this last year at the sear and that was a 'suprise'

I have sean at least five guns that will fire /drop the hamer on safe. 1/2 of them were 22s but still that counts.

I will make a point of fitting a spare to keep in my 'KIT'. I didn't relalise how many people broke them.

[Radical Precision Designs]

Jamie-

If you consider yourself truly capable and handy, and don't have two left hands and two left feet, do the following on your next "ambi" installation.

First, remove the complete upper assembly, then the grip safety, hammer, sear and disconnector from your 1911 frame. Leave them out for the time being, and clean that area well. Next insert "only" the left side part of the ambi safety (the one with the "lobe") into the frame. Now move it up and down to ascertain range of motion within the frame, both with the upper assembly in place and with it out. Make sure you do have a match with the "slot" in the slide, and that it matches completely, going up all the way. With the slide off make sure that the safety moves down all the way into lineup/index with the plunger tube detent pin, AND INTO A REST SPOT either on the grip stocks or the frame. Now is your turn to get out your files and grind any areas that rub on the frame. Smear the safety "under sides" areas with "Dykems Blue/Red" or a magic marker, and look for tell-tale scrapes, including the plunger tube. File gently, carefully and evenly in the "high spots" as identified. Check inside the frame where the "rear of the lobe" touches the frame for binding/rough/undersized spots. Remove any "burrs" from frame or safety, and gently grind/file/fit to achieve that needed "rest spot", clearance from moving slide, and plunger indexing. Once this is achieved, install the right (floating) side of the safety. Move it up and down and look for bindind areas. Fit it to the groove in the frame (2011 or wide bodies) or to the grip stock, and then file underneath as necessary to eliminate any obstructing areas contacting "prematurely" on the frame, to achieve a proper rest spot. In wide bodies (S_I) you may also need to reshape slightly the plastic grips to allow complete travel into the frame stop. Make sure "both" sides arrive at their rest spots simultaneously. In regular 1911's file/grind a rest stop into the grip stock.

Once you accomplish this and the safety moves up and down smoothly and evenly, then you are ready to fit/match the safety lobe into the sear. Be carefull now, as here is when most people ruin the whole works by removing too much. That's it. If you follow these instructions carefully, you should eliminate safety breakages by resting your fingers on them while shooting.

I guess by now other 'smiths are "cursing" me out, and I guess I'll regret it too, because there will be less safety installation jobs left for us. But since I know that some of you might be shooting next to me after your next "handi-work", I will feel much safer. In any case, you never know: I might just send you a bill...

Edited January 3, 2006 by Radical Precision Designs

[Flyin40]

Radical pretty much nailed it. Being left handed the saftey breakage for us lefties is ten fold of a righty. Its due to the simple fact that our thumb rides the right side of the safety. My Smith did the same thing and even drew and picture and sent it too me on how to fix it myself. Now its just too expensive to ship a gun just to get the safety worked on. Another thing that happens is once the safety is fitted the right side will "walk" out from the frame. One of the Smiths taught me this trick from STI. I had a new gun and they had to pay for the shipping so he told me how to fix it the next time. My current smith also recommened this. Just file a slight area on the tab/tongue side at the back of the tab down into the tab. Both top and bottom and then adjust the female side so the tips are slightly inward. What this allows is once the safety is put together the female part goes down into the slight grove of the tab/tongue. The lips go down into that groove. You have to be very careful, to much of this will weaken the safety tab and it will break. Another problem you find is getting it back apart. Once you do this the wiggle the safety out no longer works. Its in there so tight it take some pressure to get it out. My gun has alot of rounds through it and it still holds up.

Another thing I don't do is pull the hammer back and safety on during dryfire everytime. I do it some but not every single time. Just that much less usage of that safety for a lefty.

Flyin40

Edited January 9, 2006 by Flyin40

[Flyin40]

After all that posting can you guess what broke??? Yes my safety

It lasted a long time, over a yr with alot of practice, matches and dryfire. It broke right after I put it back together after working on the trigger. Figures

Well I found an SVI safety and I'll try it out. Maybe since it is machine from billet it might be stronger. Who knows. If I can get this one to last a yr I'll be happy. Next time I'll keep my mouth shut when someones talking about a broken safety.

Flyin40

Edited January 16, 2006 by Flyin40

[AlamoShooter]

After all that posting can you guess what broke??? Yes my safety

I have a friend that can break a part on your gun by just looking at it. = one of our Club Jokes ,, So your safety may be my fault, sorry

But, Thanks! realy every ones help was better than I could have hoped for. I dont feal like I was abussing the gun.

Rad's info was grate, The new one went in slow and carfull. I did a little clean up after I shot it, as in the first match the sear caut on the safety a few time = like I had froze up the triger. the hard crome does not match = but that just gives it caracter

Thanks to every one

Jamie

[wide45]

QUOTE(wide45 @ Jan 1 2006, 03:18 PM) *

I'd bet nobody makes a fully machined safety.

Your choices are investment cast, or MIM.

SVI makes a machined from barstock thumb safety. It is 2x the price but sure is a puty part.

I stand corrected. SV does make a fully machined safety. I have one here from the prize table at the Lim Nats. They polished it so much, you can't tell how it was made.

[BOGA]

A friend who shoots open sti broke the same thing. His thumb rides on that safety when he shoots. We saw an ambi safety with integrated thumb shield. Ordered it and the shield offers a solid support to the safety. We gave it a year to break but so far its almost 2 years now and its still intact.

[Flyin40]

I just got an email from Brandon Strayer at SV today. I was asking about there safety. He said even though it is machinced from Billet it isn't any stronger. I'm trying on anyways.

Flyin40

[Jasonub]

I broke mine too! an edbrown stainless ambi safety on my svi. Shot about 29t rounds and about 2 years.

So where can i buy the sv safety? and how much wil it cost?

[Flyin40]

I broke mine too! an edbrown stainless ambi safety on my svi. Shot about 29t rounds and about 2 years.

So where can i buy the sv safety? and how much wil it cost?

I really like the SV safety. Don't sure where to get another one. Emailed Strayer and they said I could just get one from them, only problem is its about $90. Haven't found any other place to get them yet.

Flyin40