Final Crimp Question for .45

[BuckshotBear]

New to loading .45acp on my Dillon Xl650.

 

Just installed the conversion kit and dies, not getting the greatest reliability in the final Dillon crimp die as some rounds feel tight in the Dillon case gauge whilst others plop in and fall right out.

Replaces the third Dillon crimp die with a Lee Factory crimp die and getting the results that I want, but wondering why the Dillon crimp die isn't working as well (rather use the Dillon die) is there something that I haven't done right setting it up? Any hints? Should the Dillon crimp die be working so that every completed round plunks in and slides out of the Dillon case gauge with ease?

 

Thanks in advance. 

[Guy Neill]

Are the case lengths consistent? Is the die staying tight in the press?

 

Case wall thickness can play a part as well.

[Farmer]

What Guy said. + 
Are you using mixed brass? You have enough flair and Not shaving the bullets if using coated or lead? When I use mixed brass for practice, I take the loosest (thinnest/shortest brass) and the tightest (thickest/longest brass) and try and adjust in between. The 45 auto isn’t or doesn’t seem to be as finicky about crimping as the 9mm. Or at least I haven’t noticed it. 

Edited December 24, 2023 by Farmer

[shred]

The FCD resizes the case while it crimps.  That makes some 'fat' rounds fit the gauge better at the expense of re-swaging the bullet, but it could also be you just put more crimp on (most new loaders tend to under-crimp anyway IME)

 

So first off you need to know where on the "sticky" rounds they are sticking-- could be the crimp isn't enough, could be the case isn't being resized enough, could be misaligned seating stem, etc.

 

Take one of those rounds and mark up all the brass with a sharpie (blue is good), then carefully push it in and out of the gauge a few times and then look to see where the ink gets scraped off (magnification helps).  If it's scraped right up at the case mouth, it's crimp.  If it's further down the body of the case it's bullet-bulge or resizing.

 

[ChuckS]

1 hour ago, shred said:

The FCD resizes the case while it crimps.  That makes some 'fat' rounds fit the gauge better at the expense of re-swaging the bullet, --- snip ---

 

FWIW, many moons ago while chasing reduced SD, I found that using the FCD got me double digit SD (good brass, Vit powder and jacketed bullets). Going back to the standard crimp die the SD went under 10. It may not matter to you unless you like riding close to power factor limits...

[pskys2]

More than likely due to variations in the case head.  Many firings in unsupported barrels will swell the case head.  The Dillon Dies are designed for progressive machines with a flare at the mouth, resulting in a bit less sizing at the base of the case.  

I use the Lee U Die, it's a shade tighter at the base and doesn't have the flared taper.  Can be a bit more touchy on the upstroke of your 650/750, but they work fine in my 550 and 1050.

 

Now if you're loading 40 s&w it can get to the point you need a separate roll sizer to get the Glock Bulge out!

[BuckshotBear]

Pretty sure the problem has been the mold.

A mate was casting and Hitek coating the pills for me using a Lee 452-228-1R mold...I had to reduce the overall COAL a LOT so that the pistol would go into battery (even though rounds went into a Dillon case gauge).

Did some Googling and that mold seems like a well known issue.

[xrayfk05]

Were the bullets sized after coating? Otherwise that might be your problem.

 

Also case gauges do not check for OAL, the only way to check OAL is your barrel.

Every barrel and bullet combo can seat a different max. OAL. (Round bullet - Shorter OAL, pointier bullet - longer OAL. Usually )

[BuckshotBear]

Thanks all appreciate the advice.

I've loaded for a lot of calibers over 40+ years and .44-40 and now .45auto have been the two that have made me feel like a total novice.

Been so busy with Christmas and its blisteringly hot down here so I haven't been able to spend long stretches in my reloading room.

Put the Dillon crimp die back in and found and followed this setup suggestion and I think I have it nailed.

Reading heaps....it seems .468 is the crimp to aim for with lead pills?

I have noticed that using a kinetic hammer on a dummy round loaded using the Dillon crimp take a LOT more whacking to remove the pill than one loaded using the Lee FCD? 

 

 

[Farmer]

Remember to  double check your first finished round after the shell plate is full to account for flex. That’s something that’s not mentioned in the video.  Also the reason your FCD rounds were easier to disassemble could be because the die was sizing down the bullet in the case making it actually looser. The 45 auto and 10mm auto are two of the easier/easiest rounds to load. To me 9mm is a pita compared to them. 

Edited December 27, 2023 by Farmer
Added

[BuckshotBear]

58 minutes ago, Farmer said:

Remember to  double check your first finished round after the shell plate is full to account for flex. That’s something that’s not mentioned in the video.  Also the reason your FCD rounds were easier to disassemble could be because the die was sizing down the bullet in the case making it actually looser. The 45 auto and 10mm auto are two of the easier/easiest rounds to load. To me 9mm is a pita compared to them. 

 

Thanks mate appreciated.....I've reloaded upwards of 60,000+ 9mm on my Dillon and I must have gotten lucky setting the dies up all those years ago (never changed them since). Setting up the 45acp has definitely tested me.