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? For competitors with </= 2# Triggers..........


HOGRIDER

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Curious if its common to "cut" a few coils off the mainspring.  New experience for me.......

 

Also, I have always preferred a "glass rod break" type trigger with a primary and secondary sear face.  Do most competitors now use/prefer a "roll" trigger with a radiused sear face?

 

Thanks for any/all feedback!

 

BTW:  Pic of my mainspring  next to a verified, premium 17# spring.

 

 

MS Comps.png

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The radius trigger is easier to cut and tends to last longer at light weights, so I think a lot of gunsmiths and home-smiths are doing those.  As for the spring, mine are full length unless I'm doing something like a Tanfo with a ridiculously short spring.. sometimes those get ground on a little to take stack out.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, shred said:

The radius trigger is easier to cut and tends to last longer at light weights, so I think a lot of gunsmiths and home-smiths are doing those.  As for the spring, mine are full length unless I'm doing something like a Tanfo with a ridiculously short spring.. sometimes those get ground on a little to take stack out.

 

 

@shred:

Thanks for your feedback!  Any reason you can think of to justify cutting 3 coils off the mainspring?

 

It's testing to 9# at 1.312"...........but with the reduced length, not sure if the standard compressed length is applicable....

 

🤔

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25 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

@shred:

Thanks for your feedback!  Any reason you can think of to justify cutting 3 coils off the mainspring?

 

It's testing to 9# at 1.312"...........but with the reduced length, not sure if the standard compressed length is applicable....

 

🤔

IDK.  Different smiths do different things to springs for their own reasons.  While technically shortening a spring makes it heavier, it decreases pre-load so maybe (and I'm speculating here) it was done like that to make the hammer-cocking portion of slide travel smoother.  Also check its not just broken.  BTDT.

 

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3 minutes ago, shred said:

IDK.  Different smiths do different things to springs for their own reasons.  While technically shortening a spring makes it heavier, it decreases pre-load so maybe (and I'm speculating here) it was done like that to make the hammer-cocking portion of slide travel smoother.  Also check its not just broken.  BTDT.

 

Verified it's 3 coils short...........no reason offered........

 

Thanks!

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I buy EGW long nose sears and put a True Radius cut on them.  If you add a secondary cut, it isn't a roll trigger anymore.  I love the feel and they last forever. 18 and 19 lb. mainsprings with no coils cut.  2 lb. 2 oz. triggers in both.  Next time I take them apart for a deep clean I'm going to go a tad lighter.

 

That being said, I put a Brazos trigger kit into my backup Open gun for no reason other than I wanted to see what he did to the parts.  He does not use a radius on the sear nose.  They dropped right in, and I've had no issues with it.  Trigger weight is under 1.5 lb.  17 lb. mainspring with no coils cut off.

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13 hours ago, zzt said:

I buy EGW long nose sears and put a True Radius cut on them.  If you add a secondary cut, it isn't a roll trigger anymore.  I love the feel and they last forever. 18 and 19 lb. mainsprings with no coils cut.  2 lb. 2 oz. triggers in both.  Next time I take them apart for a deep clean I'm going to go a tad lighter.

 

That being said, I put a Brazos trigger kit into my backup Open gun for no reason other than I wanted to see what he did to the parts.  He does not use a radius on the sear nose.  They dropped right in, and I've had no issues with it.  Trigger weight is under 1.5 lb.  17 lb. mainspring with no coils cut off.

@zzt

Thanks for your feedback!

 

I'm seriously wanting to drop in another kit with a traditional primary and secondary cut on the sear.  Was seriously considering the Brazos kit.  

 

Also considering pulling out the TR Pro, and doing an EGW or EE sear and hammer.

 

My biggest challenge with be retaining the current ambi shielded TS that I definitely want to keep intact if possible.  Of course, I could buy another identical one and fit it if necessary........

 

Thanks again!

 

👍

 

 

Edited by HOGRIDER
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I currently have an egw hammer and a harrison true radius sear.  I run a 15lb hammer spring. Trigger comes in at 1lb 13oz.  Took a lot of sear spring tuning to get everything set right and reliable but the combo works great.

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I do two angle sears with an old-school Power Custom fixture using 19lb mainsprings and conventional sear springs.  Gives a clean, crisp "glass break" feel with 1.75-2.0 pull weight (confirmed with NRA static weights) and positive reset.  Still the best way to do it in IMO.

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7 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:

I do two angle sears with an old-school Power Custom fixture using 19lb mainsprings and conventional sear springs.  Gives a clean, crisp "glass break" feel with 1.75-2.0 pull weight (confirmed with NRA static weights) and positive reset.  Still the best way to do it in IMO.

Always had a lot of admiration for those that have mastered the Powers Custom fixture!

 

My limited training has been with the True Radius Pro jig......and I am a proponent of that tool as it allows a roll trigger or two angle trigger for the user that understands it's operation; and is using quality sears that have enough length to take advantage of the desired results.

 

One thing I don't see mentioned very often is checking the "residual" weight, as I call it, of the hammer/sear without the sear spring installed.  I was trained to always figure/add this weight, which is usually 6-12oz, in with my final desired trigger pull weight.  It was also recommended to put at least 16oz on the center leaf to prevent trigger bounce........

 

With this pistol, I'm going to try the Brazos kit and go from there.

 

Thanks for your feedback!

 

👍

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18 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

'm seriously wanting to drop in another kit with a traditional primary and secondary cut on the sear.  Was seriously considering the Brazos kit.  

 

Also considering pulling out the TR Pro, and doing an EGW or EE sear and hammer.

 

My biggest challenge with be retaining the current ambi shielded TS that I definitely want to keep intact if possible.  Of course, I could buy another identical one and fit it if necessary

 

Sears vary.  If you want to retain your existing TS, you'll have to be careful about which sear or kit you choose.  For example, if your TR sear is the same size as an Extreme Engineering and you choose an EGW sear, tour TS won't work any more.  You'll have to peen the arm or weld and refit.

 

In my builds I always start out with an EGW kit.  They have the thinnest sear, and they always drop in without work if your holes are in the right position.  BTW, an EGW trigger kit is just parts picked from the relevant parts bins and dropped into one bag.  That shows you how good their machining is.  If and when the TS wears, switch to an EE sear and refit the TS.  You can keep going like that until you get to Harrison Custom.  They have the fattest sear I've found.

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On 8/21/2023 at 6:56 PM, zzt said:

That being said, I put a Brazos trigger kit into my backup Open gun for no reason other than I wanted to see what he did to the parts.  He does not use a radius on the sear nose.  They dropped right in, and I've had no issues with it.  Trigger weight is under 1.5 lb.  17 lb. mainspring with no coils cut off.

After an excellent conversation with Bob Londrigan, and at the recommendation of @zzt, I decided to try one of Brazos' Performance Tuned Trigger Kits.  Also decided to order his Brazos Pro Disconnector:

 

https://www.1911store.com/Tuned-Trigger-Group-BCG-Brazos-Pro.aspx

 

Even though I had tried/used several of the EGW and EE kits in the past, this was my first go round with the Brazos kit.  After a careful inspection of contact surfaces of the FCG parts, I immediately noticed the nicely polished/stoned primary & secondary sear angles along with the finely prepped hammer face and hooks!

 

After removing the mag release tool hook from the left tine of the sear spring, I did some minor polishing of the front contact edges of the left and middle tines.  Also did a bit of extra polishing on the disconnector paddle and disconnector sear spring contact bevel.  BTW, the disconnector looked excellent and measured within specs!

 

Dykemed the sear tip and proceeded to drop this kit into and existing 2011 with the grip safety left out.  Initial operation and function checks were perfect.  Decided to do a quick trigger pull test sitting on the display stand, and was surprised at the off-the-shelf results!  10 pull average:

 

IMO, if your looking for a traditional "glass rod break" trigger using primary and secondary angles of the sear in a "drop in"  system, I feel confident this will satisfy your needs.........given you have a quality frame that has good pin hole specs!

 

HTHs!  👍

 

 

 

Stage1 Test.png

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I had similar results with Brazos trigger.  I checked that both legs of the sear are contacting and installed it along with their disconnector.   I haven't touched it. Mine is 2.2lbs with a 19lb hammer spring .  I liked his trigger set up so much I got another one with one of Brazos frames and slides.  Great people to deal with.  

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12 hours ago, Timido said:

I had similar results with Brazos trigger.  I checked that both legs of the sear are contacting and installed it along with their disconnector.   I haven't touched it. Mine is 2.2lbs with a 19lb hammer spring .  I liked his trigger set up so much I got another one with one of Brazos frames and slides.  Great people to deal with.  

Definitely an excellent upgrade kit!

 

Also had a great experience with Bob.  His products are always recommended.........

 

👍

Edited by HOGRIDER
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