Detailed Instructions For Taking Apart A 625?

[Cuz]

Anyone know where I can get some pics or instructions for taking apart (and putting back together) the action on my new 625? I am hoping to find something online with detailed pics that explains what the parts are and how to put them back together once removed.

Thanks,

-Cuz.

[AzShooter]

Best instructions out there is a DVD by Jerry Miculek called Trigger Job, compete action tuning for Smith & Wesson revolvers.

You can order it through Brownells.com or www.GunVideo.com or call 1800 942-8273

[Viggen]

Yep, take a look at Jerry's video. The video shows the process.

Just take it slow.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Not sure if the current video shows MIM hammer and trigger parts. They can be tricky if are not used to them.

Those little parts jump out from everywhere

Regards,

[AzShooter]

Don't take the hand off the trigger or you definately will be cussing. That little spring in the new revolvers just jumps right out at you. If you need instuctions let me know and I'll send them to you.

Edited December 6, 2005 by AzShooter

[Walt S]

I just received my VCR tape from AGI (American GunSmith) on the S&W revolvers. It covers all revolvers starting with dissassembly, cleaning, TUNNING, and reassembly. The gun is taken all the way down so you can see each part. The video can be obtained through AGI 1325 Imola Ave, West #504 Napa, CA 94559 (707) 253-0462

Enjoy, Walt

p.s. It also shows you how to handle those springs that want to jump out at you.

Edited December 5, 2005 by Walt S

[Cuz]

Best instructions out there is a DVD by Jerry Miculek called Trigger Job, compete action tuning for Smith & Wesson revolvers.

You can order it through Brownells.com or www.GunVideo.com or call 1800 942-8273

Can you confirm if it covers the new model 625?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

Not sure if the current video shows MIM hammer and trigger parts. They can be tricky if are not used to them.

Those little parts jump out from everywhere

Regards,

Yeah, that's what scared me when I took the side plate off. I wasn't expecting to see so many parts in there.

-Cuz.

I just received my VCR tape from AGI (American GunSmith) on the S&W revolvers. It covers all revolvers starting with dissassembly, cleaning, TUNNING, and reassembly. The gun is taken all the way down so you can see each part. The video can be obtained through AGI 1325 Imola Ave, West #504 Napa, CA 94559 (707) 253-0462

Enjoy, Walt

p.s. It also shows you how to handle those springs that want to jump out at you.

Which video did you get? there are two on S&W revolvers. Neither mentions anything about the newer revolvers. Does it say when the video was created?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

Not sure what's going on with my posts, I think my Browser is screwed up. It's putting all of them in the same reply. Oh well, don't-cha just love computers???

-Cuz.

[AzShooter]

Copied from the Smith & Wesson Forum

Hi BE Mike,

After fiddling with one for about 3 hours I had to call Larry at the Perpetrator Center to get the answer. Evidently they have a fax copy of some diagram that will help, but my fax is down and he talked me through it. Here's the verbage.

1. Turn trigger upside down, meaning the tip of trigger is facing up and the hand, if attached, would be pointing down. This will allow you to see some of what you're doing.

2. Spring has short end and long end. Short end goes away from the hand, long end goes towards the hand. Curl in spring points towards top of trigger.

3. There is a very small hole in the trigger where the short end of the spring is supposed to go. You probably have to shine a bright light up in there to see it. I have to use a pair of tweezers to get the spring seated in the hole, and it usually takes me several tries.

4. (Here's the part where it would be really nice to have at least three little tiny monkey hands instead of the pair of gorilla mitts I currently own.) Using a pin punch or some other appurtenance, you must keep pressure on the spring-curl to keep short end in hole, while using another pin punch to bend the long end down past the hand-pin hole. In my experience, the short end will pop out of its hole 100% of the time if you dont hold it down while bending the long end.

5. While keeping the two punches in position, you just use that third monkey hand to put the hand back in its place, ensuring that the spring is under the hand pin. Just like you would have done in the old days when men were men and springs knew their place in the world...

6. The absolute worst part about this procedure is that you can noodge at it with absolutely zero success for hours. Then, magically, it all goes together like some genius designed it to, and you're left with this queezy uncertain feeling that it really couldn't have been that easy all along.

Edited December 6, 2005 by AzShooter

[D.carden]

Keep at it guys !!

In a short time you'll be doing things in minutes rather than hours.

Aint this fun.....!!!

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Copied from the Smith & Wesson Forum

5. While keeping the two punches in position, you just use that third monkey hand to put the hand back in its place, ensuring that the spring is under the hand pin. Just like you would have done in the old days when men were men and springs knew their place in the world...

6. The absolute worst part about this procedure is that you can noodge at it with absolutely zero success for hours. Then, magically, it all goes together like some genius designed it to, and you're left with this queezy uncertain feeling that it really couldn't have been that easy all along.

It really isn't that difficult. One punch works. Besides, you have all winter to get it back together

Regards,

[Carmoney]

When reassembling the new-style hand and trigger, the key is to get under some good light and locate the little hole in the trigger. Once that is accomplished, it will all go together pretty easily.

[R112mercer]

Here's how I take my S&W revo's apart when I have to clean them thoroughly:

- Make sure the gun is empty.

- Remove the grip screw, then the grips (This varies depending on the type of grips you have).

- Remove all screws in the sideplate (usually three, four if you have a real oldie).

- Remove the strain screw.

- Remove the cylinder assembly. Press the cylinder release, open the cylinder about halfway, then slide it forward. It helps if the cuts in the cylinder line up the edge of the frame, particularly in my K frames.

- Rap the grip frame with a screwdriver to loosen the sideplate. A couple taps will loosen the sideplate so it can be removed. You don't have to pry it off. When you have the sideplate off you'll see the hammer block (long thin metal part, looks kind of like a hockey stick with a slot cut in the handle). You can just lift this out of the gun. Sometimes it gets glued to the sideplate from the grease in the gun, so if you don't see it on the trigger assembly it may be in the sideplate. If you're gun doesn't have one for some reason call Smith and get one. It doesn't interfere with the trigger pull and makes the gun a little safer if you drop it. Note that the slot on it goes onto a little stud on the rebound slide.

- You should be able to remove the mainspring now with a little effort. Some guns are easier than others.

- Take a tool with a sharp point on it and reach in to the spring in the rebound slide (that rectangular piece of metal at the rear of the trigger) and push the spring forward, then pull out of the gun. This can be tricky, and it's a good idea to have a rag over the parts to prevent any unexpected launching and subsequent loss. Brownells makes a tool for this operation, but I'm cheap so an old pick works for me.

- With the cylinder release pulled back (it is designed to not let the gun be cocked while the cylinder is open) pull back on the hammer. Once the hammer is past the cylinder release you can let go of the release. When the hammer is about halfway back you should be able to pull it up out of the gun.

- Gently pull the hand back out of it's window in the frame, just far enough so that the trigger assembly can be pulled up out of the gun. DO NOT REMOVE THE HAND FROM THE TRIGGER. It's not all that necessary unless something is broken or you are a masochist who loves monkeying with tiny parts that have a curious way of going back together. If you happen to have six arms and a day to waste, knock yourself out, but I don't so I leave the two together.

- Just about everything should be out by now, if there are any other big important looking pieces of metal left in the gun I'd call Smith, because they don't belong there. I leave the cylinder release assembly in place (it generally doesn't need to be messed with, in my opinion) as well as the cylinder stop (that little thing in front of the trigger, it too doesn't need to be messed with in my opinion). Reassembly is in reverse order, if you where able to get it apart without to much drama you should be able to see how it goes back together.

I suffer from a rare screw loss paranoia, so I take the effort to degrease and loctite the strain screw, center sideplate screw, and yoke screw (the screw furthest to the right, if the barrel is pointing to the right). I have had the cylinder release nut come off during a course of fire, causing the cylinder release to fly off. I have heard the many stories of strain screws backing out and that center screw seems to want to strike off on it's own in some nice, grass covered shooting bay. Almost everybody has heard a story of a guy having the yoke screw come out and having his cylinder assembly come out of the gun during a reload. Ouch. The screw all the way to the left (again if the barrel is pointing to the right) is generally covered by the grips, so I don't think it'll get lost.

I usually don't take the cylinder assembly apart, but if you absolutely must it's important to remember that the ejector rod is REVERSE THREAD. Rightly loosie, Leftie tighty. You can try and turn the rod to the left all day long to remove it and all you'll get is sore hands. This is another part that I loctite, if that bugger loosens up onto the the catch at it's front it can be a real pain.

This is how I take apart my revolvers. Other results may vary. I'm sure there's someone out there, who probably has more experience or knowledge than me, who is pulling his hair out and throwing crap around the room as he reads this, so keep that in mind. Anybody who has more experience or knowledge is welcome to comment, I can always use a little more info (Pat, Mike, Randy, etc. !?!?!).

Edited December 6, 2005 by R112mercer

[Carmoney]

Rob, great description.....you know your stuff!

[R112mercer]

Rob, great description.....you know your stuff!

Thanks for the compliment, Mike. I had to learn the hard way: trial and error. Especially the whole thing with removing the hand from the trigger and why to loctite screws.

[Cuz]

AzShooter & R112mercer,

Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all.

-Cuz.

[R112mercer]

AzShooter & R112mercer,

Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all.

-Cuz.

The hand is a small piece of metal attached to the trigger (looks like an inch long piece of bright metal with a rounded bottom and a flat top, almost like a "beak" or "head" at the top). If you take your sideplate off and watch the parts move as you pull the trigger you'll see it's the part that reaches up through a window in the recoil plate to push the cylinder around via the ejector star. It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.

[10mmdave]

It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.

But make sure your hammer doesn't walk out a bit and come slamming down on

the edge of the frame where the side plate and frame meet at the top

Been there, done that !

Back off the strain screw a little also, so if does go bad it won't hit as hard.

Do the old clear plastic side plates fit the new yoke screw ??

(granted you don't have to have one but .....)

[R112mercer]

It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.

But make sure your hammer doesn't walk out a bit and come slamming down on

the edge of the frame where the side plate and frame meet at the top

Been there, done that !

Back off the strain screw a little also, so if does go bad it won't hit as hard.

Do the old clear plastic side plates fit the new yoke screw ??

(granted you don't have to have one but .....)

If you have a floating firing pin the cross slot pin that holds it in can also walk out and cause the pin to fall out. You could spend hours looking on the floor for the spring that's in there only to find that it's right where it belongs. Ask me how I know this...

[10mmdave]

If you have a floating firing pin the cross slot pin that holds it in can also walk out and cause the pin to fall out. You could spend hours looking on the floor for the spring that's in there only to find that it's right where it belongs. Ask me how I know this...

Ah yup ! ! been there too

[Cuz]

AzShooter & R112mercer,

Thanks for the detailed info. I wish I knew what part was the "hand". I think I'll copy off both sets of instructions and save them til I work up some more nerve before attempting. I'm not very good with small springy parts at all.

-Cuz.

It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.

Thanks, but this is what got me in trouble the first time I took the side plate off. I pulled the trigger and the hammer block popped off and I couldn't figure out where it went. For some reason the correct location didn't seem right. I ended up grabbing a new model 66 out of the safe and opening that up to see where the part went. Thank goodness I actuall had another of the new style S&W revolvers. All of my other ones are older. Once I put it together and put the sideplate back on I was afraid to take it back off.

-Cuz.

It's a good idea to dryfire the gun and watch the parts move when the sideplate is off to get an idea of the relationship between the parts. It'll start to make sense after a few pulls.

Do the old clear plastic side plates fit the new yoke screw ??

(granted you don't have to have one but .....)

There's a clear plastic side plate available? Where can I get one?

-Cuz

[Keith]

Oops.

Wrong thread.

Edited December 8, 2005 by Keith