Help With My 625 Mainspring?

[Cuz]

I'm trying to figure out what's the difference between installing a Brownells reduced Power Rib mainspring or just backing out the strain screw a turn or two?

Also,

The reduced power kit comes with 3 different rebound springs. Does anyone know what weight spring comes in a new 625?

Thanks,

-Cuz.

[dajarrel]

Cuz,

I replaced my spring with the Miculek mainspring and still backed out my strain screw. Once I determined where it had to be for reliable (100%) primer firing, I measured how much I had it backed out and filed the screw down so that I could tighten it securely on the shoulder provided on the screw. That, with a drop of loctite, prevents the screw from backing out. OBTW, before I started filing on my strain screw, I had ordered a spare from Brownells.

worked for me

dj

[TwoShot]

I tried loosening the screw. It continues to loosen until it will no longer pop the primers. I've had to retighten mine twice. I need to file off the end so the screw can be seated properly.

[Carmoney]

There are a number of methods to reduce mainspring tension, but the worst of them is to simply loosen the strain screw. Even when loctited in place, loose strain screws can sometimes gradually back out under the vibration of firing the gun, then you get a click at an awkward moment. On my S&W revos, I usually use a combination of shortening the strain screw and re-bending the mainspring, to achieve the proper tension (which for a competition revolver is as light as possible and still get 100%--not 99%--ignition reliability). Even the aftermarket springs will often need additional adjustment to accomplish the goal--given that reality, I prefer not to spend hard-earned bucks on spring kits when I can get delicious results using the factory parts. The tension on the rebound spring should be reduced proportionally. Replacement with an aftermarket product is an option, but here again, the existing factory rebound spring can be easily cut to the right tension, so why bother?

Mike

[dajarrel]

Mike,

Do you have any problems with the trigger resetting? I'm not a speed demon but sometimes I find that I won't let the trigger go all the way back to reset before I start pulling again when I reduce the rebound spring. I guess I'm riding the spring tension.

Make any sense?

dj

[Cuz]

There are a number of methods to reduce mainspring tension, but the worst of them is to simply loosen the strain screw. Even when loctited in place, loose strain screws can sometimes gradually back out under the vibration of firing the gun, then you get a click at an awkward moment. On my S&W revos, I usually use a combination of shortening the strain screw and re-bending the mainspring, to achieve the proper tension (which for a competition revolver is as light as possible and still get 100%--not 99%--ignition reliability). Even the aftermarket springs will often need additional adjustment to accomplish the goal--given that reality, I prefer not to spend hard-earned bucks on spring kits when I can get delicious results using the factory parts. The tension on the rebound spring should be reduced proportionally. Replacement with an aftermarket product is an option, but here again, the existing factory rebound spring can be easily cut to the right tension, so why bother?

Mike

Thanks Mike,

The only problem with what you say is that it requires knowledge about how to bend the spring or how many coils to cut off. I don't have that. I figured by buying a drop in part I could eliminate "me" from the equation. On a similar note, rather than replace the front site with a fibre optic, why not just drill out the existing sight and insert a fibre optic rod? The existing sight seems like the perfect blank for doing this to.

-Cuz.

[AzShooter]

Best spring kit I've found comes from Vic Pickett. It's a bit pricey but will give you a reliable trigger somewhere in the 6 pound range with no other work done to your gun.

The kit has a mainspring that has been chriogenically treated so that it should last forever. It also comes with two different rebout springs. One if you will be using Federal primers only and another that works even with Winchester.

You can get in touch with Vic at Ultimate Accessories, 1-480-985-0005

[Carmoney]

Mike,

Do you have any problems with the trigger resetting? I'm not a speed demon but sometimes I find that I won't let the trigger go all the way back to reset before I start pulling again when I reduce the rebound spring. I guess I'm riding the spring tension.

Make any sense?

dj

dj, trigger reset can indeed become sluggish if the rebound spring tension is reduced without a corresponding reduction in mainspring tension. They have to be "balanced" together. Properly balanced, the trigger rebound will stay nice and snappy even though it's lighter. Even Jerry has figured this out, for years he insisted on leaving the rebound spring stock, he now says he's "outgrown" that !

Thanks Mike,

The only problem with what you say is that it requires knowledge about how to bend the spring or how many coils to cut off. I don't have that. I figured by buying a drop in part I could eliminate "me" from the equation. On a similar note, rather than replace the front site with a fibre optic, why not just drill out the existing sight and insert a fibre optic rod? The existing sight seems like the perfect blank for doing this to.

-Cuz.

Cuz, I hear ya. For competition shooting and Federal primers, the Pickett spring recommended by AzShooter is probably the way to go for a drop-in replacement.

I know DougC has been making his own F/O front sights recently on a mutual friend's mill. I believe he drills it for the F/O rod, then mills out an area on top so the F/O can gather sunlight.

[D.carden]

DJ,

I second Mike's reply.

But, to add one thing.

The main spring will set-off a primer (federal) at just under #2 ( 1-12oz / 1-15oz ) depending on hammer weight ( we tend to carve them up a little).

The rebound is the key in my opinion. it will greatly depend on your finger control as to balanceing the two. Too light, you might not let-out to reset. Too heavy, you go a little slower but you keep it moving. Practicing speed drills will give you a good indication of where you are with this.

During the winter months i dry/live fire for speed and need heavier tension as my finger gets stronger. Summer and Fall i dont shoot as much therefore i go lighter to compensate for lack of finger strength.

Just some things for thought!!!

Dan....

[Bones]

Cuz -

Yes - what Mike said.

If you don't have experience with bending springs, I have found the Wolff 14 rebound spring, polishing contact surfaces and leaving the main spring work just fine. You can even shorten or completely bob the hammer spur and add a roll pin trigger stop on your own if you want to get fancy and are moderately handy. $10 and a few hours with your wet stone, bench grinder, and drill press is all you need.

Messing with strain screws, especially on moon-clipped revolvers, is the fastest way to turn the most reliable weapon in the world into a paperweight - better to use your time practicing or dry firing.

Craig

[dajarrel]

Mike, Dan,

Thanks for the replies.

Cuz, I hope I didn't hijack your thread.

thanks again,

dj

Edited December 6, 2005 by dajarrel

[Cuz]

Mike, Dan,

Thanks for the replies.

Cuz, I hope I didn't hijack your thread.

thanks again,

dj

DJ,

These threads don't belong to anyone. They belong to everyone. I'm just trying to learn as much as I can so whatever direction this thread takes will provide me with valuable knowledge. I have another post somewhere asking about pictures and instructions so I can work up the nerve to take my revo apart and do some polishing. When I took the sideplate off there were a few more parts in there than I was expecting to find. I figured out the hammer block dohickey doesn't seem very important in a competition revolver. Is there any reason I should keep it in? I already took it out.

-Cuz

Best spring kit I've found comes from Vic Pickett. It's a bit pricey but will give you a reliable trigger somewhere in the 6 pound range with no other work done to your gun.

The kit has a mainspring that has been chriogenically treated so that it should last forever. It also comes with two different rebout springs. One if you will be using Federal primers only and another that works even with Winchester.

You can get in touch with Vic at Ultimate Accessories, 1-480-985-0005

Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info.

-Cuz.

Best spring kit I've found comes from Vic Pickett. It's a bit pricey but will give you a reliable trigger somewhere in the 6 pound range with no other work done to your gun.

The kit has a mainspring that has been chriogenically treated so that it should last forever. It also comes with two different rebout springs. One if you will be using Federal primers only and another that works even with Winchester.

You can get in touch with Vic at Ultimate Accessories, 1-480-985-0005

Thanks for the info. I found their website but it doesn't look like the store part is up and running so I'll have to call Vic to get more info.

-Cuz.

[revchuck]

I figured out the hammer block dohickey doesn't seem very important in a competition revolver. Is there any reason I should keep it in? I already took it out.

-Cuz

If you can guarantee that you'll never, ever drop the gun, it's not needed. If you fumble a draw and it lands on the hammer, there's a good chance it'll go BANG.

I've replaced it in several guns I've bought used and the previous owner had removed it. It doesn't change the trigger pull, so there's little reason to remove it.

Edited to add this link - extemely interesting post almost all the way down from a lawyer with first hand experience in court with this kind of modification: http://smith-wessonforum.com/groupee/forum...904/m/828106898

Edited December 6, 2005 by revchuck

[dajarrel]

Cuz,

I would leave it in. It is a great benefit for very little or no penalty.

Patrick Sweeney, who frequents these boards, has written several books on the workings of the S&W revolver. In it you will find tips on disassembly and trigger lightening as well as other stuff.

Tinkering with my revolver is almost as much fun as shooting it

dj

[AzShooter]

The Jerry Miculek video "Trigger Job" shows you how to polish the transfer bar so that it does not interfere with your trigger job. Just a little bit of stoning will take out some of the rubbing you can notice.

[Carmoney]

If you fumble a draw and it lands on the hammer, there's a good chance it'll go BANG.

I've replaced it in several guns I've bought used and the previous owner had removed it. It doesn't change the trigger pull, so there's little reason to remove it.

Edited to add this link - extemely interesting post almost all the way down from a lawyer with first hand experience in court with this kind of modification: http://smith-wessonforum.com/groupee/forum...904/m/828106898

A couple thoughts:

1. The hammer block is only a secondary passive safety device that is redundant to the primary safety mechanism, which is the engagement between the hammer and the rebound slide. Even with the hammer block out of the gun, the hammer cannot be pushed forward unless the trigger has been pulled far enough to move the rebound slide back.

2. I agree that the hammer block does not create trigger pull problems, and there is no real downside to keeping the block in the gun.

3. We should be very leery of people on internet forums who claim to be lawyers and are passing out free legal advice or war stories. The guy on the S&W forum may in fact be an attorney, but he provides no identifying details that will allow that fact to be checked out, and there are several things about his posts which raise questions in my mind as to whether or not he's for real.

Mike (ISBA #15822)

[Cuz]

Cuz,

I would leave it in. It is a great benefit for very little or no penalty.

Patrick Sweeney, who frequents these boards, has written several books on the workings of the S&W revolver. In it you will find tips on disassembly and trigger lightening as well as other stuff.

Tinkering with my revolver is almost as much fun as shooting it

dj

Thanks for the info. I wasn't being totally honest when I said I removed it. Actually I had a local gunsmith do a trigger job on the revolver and when I got home I noticed it was missing. I called him up to ask about it and he said it was a useless part and he takes them out whenever he does a trigger job on competition guns. I guess I'll ask for it back.

-Cuz

[pskys2]

Cuz, I freaked too when I had an Action Job done by Clark and they removed the Block. Now I know it's pretty common, but they should always send it back with the pistol.

If YOU use it for only Competition do what you feel comfortable with. If you use it for Hunting, Defense, Plinking, have kids using them, are dexterously challenged and drop things alot or anything else, might consider leaving it in.

It also will depend on the Weight and/or Quality of your Action Job.

Good Luck

[Carmoney]

I'm sure I have a few extra hammer blocks down in my parts box--if anybody needs one let me know.

[Cuz]

I'm sure I have a few extra hammer blocks down in my parts box--if anybody needs one let me know.

Is this because you don't use them or you are overly paranoid about losing one??? Sorry, I had to ask.

-Cuz.

[Carmoney]

I might have forgotten to put a few back in over the years!