WildWest N AZ Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Im getting a Dillon next month and Im on a mission to get all the info I can. I've read some newbie books on reloading and found them to be a great help. Now I need to find some good books with reliable info to reload with. NOt sure what ones to get also if some of the books could contain loads with TG it seems everyone finds this powder to be accurate. Then once I get a handle on reloading branch off to perfect some loads. Also can anyone point in a good direction for a tumbler that is cheaper than dillions but will hold up for afew years. Thanks for the help and putting up with another newbie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Orr Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Try the Jeff Maass site for some really good stuff - BUT if you do a search here on reloading you will find lots of great advise. Lots of good threads. Try search in this section and see what comes up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm3gnr Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Im getting a Dillon next month and Im on a mission to get all the info I can. I've read some newbie books on reloading and found them to be a great help. Now I need to find some good books with reliable info to reload with. NOt sure what ones to get also if some of the books could contain loads with TG it seems everyone finds this powder to be accurate. Then once I get a handle on reloading branch off to perfect some loads. Also can anyone point in a good direction for a tumbler that is cheaper than dillions but will hold up for afew years.Thanks for the help and putting up with another newbie! Midway USA sells a good tumbler at a great price. I have owned two for 8 years with no problems. I also use tightgroup and wst. At Hodgon's website you can get data for reloads. 180gr lead 4.2 -4.4 tightgroup at 1.80 c.o.l. . Always start light and work up for best performance, and check them on a chrony. good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 I started reloading with Lyman manuals, and definitely loved their Pistol & Revolver Handbook-2nd Edition. A clean, step-by-step guide to reloading, with insights on what to check for proper reloading, as well as LOTS of info on bullets/powder combo for each caliber (and there are a lot of them). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidball Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Once you understand the basic process of reloading, finding the "perfect" load is primarily a matter of trial and error. There are two basic goals: 1) finding the "softest" load possible while still making power factor and 2) finding the most accurate load. You want your load to produce a manageable recoil while at the same time hitting the point at which you aim. Both are subjective to your particular gun. You may be able to get a starting point from someone shooting a similar gun to yours, but yours will be different, even it is the same make and model as another gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolPete Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Which Dillon are you getting? I recommend buying the 650. When I first got into reloading I bought a Lee Progressive press and used it about 5 times before buying a Dillon. I didn't know anything about reloading so I bought the Lee. Getting frustrated about the difficulty in using the powder measure I turned to Dillon. Ever since the 650 I've never looked back. There are quite a lot of books on the market. I highly recommend Brians video on the 650. He give a lot of good info on setup of the press. If you follow Dillons setup guidelines when you put the press together it is pretty straight forward. JUST NOTE IF YOU'RE LOOKING AT LOAD DATA THAT IS THE MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF POWDER ETC. TO USE AND ALWAYS START AROUND 10% LESS. What type of gun are you using. The type of gun you use will determine what type of loads you will be using. If you're using a 1911 style gun such as an SVI or STI then you would want to load the rounds longer than a normal 40 S&W round. As for a tumbler, look on Ebay. About 5 years ago I bought a Hornady tumbler on Ebay for short money. I've been using it ever since and it works great. Never had a problem. My only complaint is that I should have bought the largest tumbler possible. Good luck and welcome to reloading. It's a great way to do shooting stuff when you're not at the range. Plus, the ammo you will be able to make will shoot much better than factory. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standles Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 (edited) Check out this thread. I worked up a load for TG in .40sw that you may find useful http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...28593&hl=chrono Edited November 25, 2005 by standles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 I used the speer 13 to get started also they have one cailber guides can be bought cheap. That have a ton of data.I bought a Dillon tumbler of ebay guy it didn't make resevre I emailed him and bought my cv-500 for 65 shipped.I started buying cleaned brass. This guy has good buys on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/40-Cal-Brass-500-Piece...1QQcmdZViewItem His id is cps5700 after winning the auction Email and he tripled the sale price and shipped 1500 rounds in the same box I got 1500 mixed nickle 40 cal for 22 bucks shipped Just snagged a pact iv timer/chrono for a 150 too. So will have great load data for Springfield XD-40's soon I have 3,4and5" Models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted November 26, 2005 Author Share Posted November 26, 2005 (edited) Im going to get the Dillon 550 cant spend the extra cash on the 650 and ammo costing me to much right now to wait. I have a G23 that I use in limited USPSA stye events so Im really in need of a reloader. Ill check Midway out figured someone made a good tumbler with out a high price tag. I was also told to get the Lyman data book to start with first. Also I do not plan to use lead bellets because of cost setup already my ? is do you have to use good bullets such as Speer ect or can you use others bullets makers and get good groups from them? What other manufacters should I look at for bullets that are cheaper than the big names? Edited November 26, 2005 by WildWest N AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolPete Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 (edited) One more thing... Do yourself a favor and get a digital powder scale. I started with a manual one and it just slows you down. You can use it but it takes so much longer to set up and longer to measure each charge. The Digital scale is worth every penny. If you need load data and don't want to buy a book all the top powder manufacturers have load data on their websites. Edited November 26, 2005 by PistolPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 Berrys plated get my vote I buy all mine from cabellas.Thinking about that and they have a nice tumbler combo with a sifter and media was real cheap.If you dont reload any rifle the Dillon square deal b has auto indexing and is sweet come with dies all setup for 300. Hogdons tite group and been trying to find w321 I here also works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrispies Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 If you're looking for a cheap tumbler, don't be ashamed to check out eBay for a used Thumler's Tumbler rock polisher. They're tougher than rocks (literally) and do the job for dirt cheap (sorry for the pun). BTW, I'm looking to upgrade to a G35 from a G17... Can anybody tell me how many reloadings you're able to reliably get out of your .40 brass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted November 26, 2005 Author Share Posted November 26, 2005 Anyone useing Dillons dies for the 40 and shooting a Glock have you seen any problems with Dillons stuff not resizing the brass correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDGlock23 Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 Anyone useing Dillons dies for the 40 and shooting a Glock have you seen any problems with Dillons stuff not resizing the brass correctly? I've not seen any problems, I use a RL550B and shoot a Glock 23. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R/T Performance Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 If you're looking for a cheap tumbler, don't be ashamed to check out eBay for a used Thumler's Tumbler rock polisher. They're tougher than rocks (literally) and do the job for dirt cheap (sorry for the pun).BTW, I'm looking to upgrade to a G35 from a G17... Can anybody tell me how many reloadings you're able to reliably get out of your .40 brass? I have reused 6plus time haven't had and problems yet But glock barrel do swell the brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 The reason I ask is because I was told to get EGW dies, and a Lee factory crimp in stead of Dillon's stuff. But it seems that reloaders using Dillons stuff arent haveing any problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 The reason I ask is because I was told to get EGW dies, and a Lee factory crimp in stead of Dillon's stuff. But it seems that reloaders using Dillons stuff arent haveing any problems? I think the bottom line is that EGW and LFC dies will "iron out" most if not all of any bulge near the base of the case, more so than the deliberately flared sizing dies from Dillon, but that what really matters is what chamber those loaded rounds are going to go through. By way of example, my SDB dies get most of the bulge, but not all of it, but even then nearly all of the still fat cases chamber in my (nonGlock) guns just fine. If you case gauge all your ammo, and don't mind that you'll have some rejects (which become practice ammo, and for me still runs fine 98% of the time). then Dillon dies still might be an option. If you want no worry/no or low hassle ammo, get an EGW or LFC die (though the O-C in me would still case gauge ammo for major matches). my .02, kevin c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PistolPete Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 Glock brass use to be the death of me. When I started shooting my SV with Schueman barrel I had a ton of problems with jams thanks to Glock brass. I would pick up my own brass but occasionally pick up someone elses which was from a Glock. I always chamber check my ammo for a match but for practice ammo I hardly ever do. Well, I started having a ton of jams thanks to the belled Glock cases. Since then I replace the Dillon die to the Lee Factory Crimp Die and am so much happier. Even if I pick up Glock brass the gun still feeds it fine thanks to the resizing of the Lee FCD. It may brass wear sooner but I'm not sure. I'm sure it would but after all reliable ammo is more important than being able to reload brass 7 times instead of 6. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
achard Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 The reason I ask is because I was told to get EGW dies, and a Lee factory crimp in stead of Dillon's stuff. But it seems that reloaders using Dillons stuff arent haveing any problems? +1 you won't have any problems with dillons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 (edited) Sorry Dillon but Im going to go with Lee's complete set of dies. For one they are cheaper and it seems the Lee FCD does a better job. I am going to case gauge the stuff just to be sure. If the stuff wont gage still I will order the EGW die. Is Dillons case gage fine to go with even if your not using thier dies? Thanks for the help! Edited November 28, 2005 by WildWest N AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 (edited) All case gauges are supposed to match SAAMI minimum specifications for the cartridge they are made to check. So any brand should do. That being said, varying manufacturing specs and quality control mean that any two gauges, even from the same manufacturer, will vary slightly. The base recommendation is that the gauge you used should be the same or preferably smaller than the chamber of the gun you are loading for. Your test is a no-go sample round on the gauge that will still fit in your chamber without binding, not vice versa. That may mean possibly trying more than one. Dillon's gauges are high quality and the one I have is tighter than my match barrel chambers. But, despite that, my Midway gauge is actually the one I use - it's just a little bit tighter. Edited November 28, 2005 by kevin c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterj Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Sorry Dillon but Im going to go with Lee's complete set of dies. For one they are cheaper and it seems the Lee FCD does a better job. I am going to case gauge the stuff just to be sure. If the stuff wont gage still I will order the EGW die. Is Dillons case gage fine to go with even if your not using thier dies? Thanks for the help! If you are going to load lead bullets, the Dillon seating die is the only way to go. Pull the pin clean the lube out, and reassemble. No need to reset or adjust anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 (edited) Dont plan on shooting lead as of right now cant afford any more reloading toys! It said you dont have oil cases when using carbide dies is this correct? Or should you to make the operation smother and if so what is a good case lube to use? Edited November 29, 2005 by WildWest N AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Use Hornady One Shot...even with Carbide dies...even though you don't HAVE to...you will want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Sorry Dillon but Im going to go with Lee's complete set of dies. For one they are cheaper and it seems the Lee FCD does a better job. I am going to case gauge the stuff just to be sure. If the stuff wont gage still I will order the EGW die. I've been using the Lee 4 die setup in .40 for 3 years and love it. I bought the EGW die first and now it sits in the box. Personally, I think the EGW die over does it a little. I was getting a bulge in the brass from bullet seating which would cause an occasional reject. I get less rejects from the Lee 4 die set. As stated...Hornady one shot on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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