Thick new #5 / 9mm shell plate on RL1050

[Sigarmsp226]

On 8/19/2021 at 9:09 AM, ddc said:

 

I'm guessing this will be a very valid option. Their universal decapper die is built like a tank. Plus it just plain works.

DDC - I need to apologize to you Sir. In this thread you clearly identified in your post two above mine that FW Arms was also making shell plates and I did not see your post when I made my post repeating what you had already posted..Sorry about that. I truly did not see your post or I would not have made mine.  I need to slow down and read prior posts more carefully…Again sorry for reposting what you had already posted..It was not done intentionally…  

[Cuz]

So, what is wrong with the original “thinner” shell plate?  Mine seems to work fine at the rate I load at manually. Is it something that shows up when the press is automated?

 

I can certainly understand buying a shell plate from one of the other manufacturers if I was changing calibers and had to get one anyway. 
 

But, can you guys provide some reasons why I might want to spend the money ($110?) to replace a shell plate I already have?  How much different are they from Dillons, and what does that mean in relation to the operation of the press?

 

And, lastly, does any of the above matter when running the press manually vs automating?

 

Every time I read some of these threads I am reminded of how little I know. 

[HesedTech]

1 hour ago, Cuz said:

So, what is wrong with the original “thinner” shell plate?  Mine seems to work fine at the rate I load at manually. Is it something that shows up when the press is automated?

I run Ammobot 1050 with TNT plates for 9mm and 223.

 

Why?
1. Less wobble of cases as they rotate through stations.

2. Less flex should mean more precision of seating.

3. Less flex at swage 

4. The cool factor of an upgrade. 
 

I do believe the Dillon plates are designed to allow for a bit less precision when the cases are pushed into them with the feeder. Helps if one is not aligned well.

Edited August 27, 2021 by HesedTech

[Boomstick303]

1 hour ago, HesedTech said:

TNT plates for 9mm and 223.

 

I noted on the TNT Munitions shell plate they did not lube the underside of the their shell plate when they installed it in the video on their website.  Do you install your shell plate the same way.  Are we not supposed to lube the underside of any shell plate when performing maintenance on the 1050/1100?  I believe I have seen other maintenance videos where they lube the top and bottom.  Am I missing something?

[ddc]

18 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

DDC - I need to apologize to you Sir. In this thread you clearly identified in your post two above mine that FW Arms was also making shell plates and I did not see your post when I made my post repeating what you had already posted..Sorry about that. I truly did not see your post or I would not have made mine.  I need to slow down and read prior posts more carefully…Again sorry for reposting what you had already posted..It was not done intentionally…  

Hey, no need for apology! This sort of thing happens all the time on these type forums. The volume of information in a long thread can be hard to digest on the fly.

No worries mate!

[Cuz]

5 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I noted on the TNT Munitions shell plate they did not lube the underside of the their shell plate when they installed it in the video on their website.  Do you install your shell plate the same way.  Are we not supposed to lube the underside of any shell plate when performing maintenance on the 1050/1100?  I believe I have seen other maintenance videos where they lube the top and bottom.  Am I missing something?

i was wondering about greasing the bottom of the shell plate too. The only video I’ve seen is the one on dissembling the 1050, and he greases it. When I grease it, things get messy. I may be using too much. 

[Boomstick303]

Just now, Cuz said:

I may be using too much. 

 

I have been wondering this as well.  If you think about it the Primer slider does not use any lube, so I am curious if that can be done with the bottom of the shell plate.  With that said the coating on the primer slider seems different than the shell plates.  At least the after market ones.

[HesedTech]

21 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

I noted on the TNT Munitions shell plate they did not lube the underside of the their shell plate when they installed it in the video on their website.  Do you install your shell plate the same way.  Are we not supposed to lube the underside of any shell plate when performing maintenance on the 1050/1100?  I believe I have seen other maintenance videos where they lube the top and bottom.  Am I missing something?

When I clean or change calibers I always put a very thin, and I mean very thin film of grease on the bottom. No matter what the plates are coated with metal on metal does wear. But the problem is any amount of lubricant will attract dust and debris, so it’s a trade off and decision you have to make.  Lube for wear and smoother running, but maybe clean more often or no lube with a bit more wear. 
 

I also lube the hold down ring wear it contacts the shell plate and the inner plate edge which rotates on center post.  To sum it up any part which rubs against another needs a bit of lube. However, parts like the powder funnel, expansion plug and swage rod should never be lubed where they contact the brass. Doing so will contaminate the powder and or primer. Polish these items with dremel or very fine wet and dry (1200 grit). 
 

hope that helps. 

[Cuz]

29 minutes ago, HesedTech said:

When I clean or change calibers I always put a very thin, and I mean very thin film of grease on the bottom. No matter what the plates are coated with metal on metal does wear. But the problem is any amount of lubricant will attract dust and debris, so it’s a trade off and decision you have to make.  Lube for wear and smoother running, but maybe clean more often or no lube with a bit more wear. 
 

I also lube the hold down ring wear it contacts the shell plate and the inner plate edge which rotates on center post.  To sum it up any part which rubs against another needs a bit of lube. However, parts like the powder funnel, expansion plug and swage rod should never be lubed where they contact the brass. Doing so will contaminate the powder and or primer. Polish these items with dremel or very fine wet and dry (1200 grit). 
 

hope that helps. 

 

I'm guessing the problem is that my idea of "lightly lube" is about 4 times more grease than it should be.

[Cuz]

31 minutes ago, Cuz said:

 

I'm guessing the problem is that my idea of "lightly lube" is about 4 times more grease than it should be.

 

Correction, I just went back and read the manual, and watched some of Dillon's maintenance videos on the 1100 and 1050.  I now know that what I thought was "lightly" greasing is closer to 10 times more than it should have been.  That explains a lot about how messy things were getting.

 

[Boomstick303]

3 hours ago, Cuz said:

my idea of "lightly lube" is about 4 times more grease than it should be.

 

I think this is my issue as well. I am also,wondering if the lube mixed with powder from the occasional spill is causing me to have to maintain the press more often. 

 

Thanks @HesedTech

[George16]

3 hours ago, Cuz said:

 

Correction, I just went back and read the manual, and watched some of Dillon's maintenance videos on the 1100 and 1050.  I now know that what I thought was "lightly" greasing is closer to 10 times more than it should have been.  That explains a lot about how messy things were getting.

 

I’m using a thin coat of dry graphite lube underneath the plate and ring. The dry lube prevents dirt from sticking to it like the dry lube they use on bicycle chains and sprockets.

[Cuz]

3 hours ago, George16 said:

I’m using a thin coat of dry graphite lube underneath the plate and ring. The dry lube prevents dirt from sticking to it like the dry lube they use on bicycle chains and sprockets.

is that the powder stuff my kids used to put on their car axles back when they did the Pinewood Derby stuff?

 

[George16]

49 minutes ago, Cuz said:

is that the powder stuff my kids used to put on their car axles back when they did the Pinewood Derby stuff?

 

Yes. You can also use the aerosol type like this one

[Sigarmsp226]

George - Thanks for posting this photo. I just checked and my local Lowes has this in stock. Gonna pick up a can on my next trip there and give this a try….Thanks Again for posting this as I remember using the black graphite powder also on the wheels of my boys PWD cars. That slick black dust stuff got all over everything…..

[George16]

5 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

George - Thanks for posting this photo. I just checked and my local Lowes has this in stock. Gonna pick up a can on my next trip there and give this a try….Thanks Again for posting this as I remember using the black graphite powder also on the wheels of my boys PWD cars. That slick black dust stuff got all over everything…..

You’re welcome Mark. Sorry I forgot to say that I bought it from Lowe’s.

[Cuz]

13 minutes ago, George16 said:

You’re welcome Mark. Sorry I forgot to say that I bought it from Lowe’s.

wait, doesn’t TiteGroup powder perform the same graphite like lubricant if we don’t use any grease to gum everything up??

[Sigarmsp226]

Some might say that TiteGroup is as dirty as the old style black powder graphite…………

[Johnnymazz]

Just my 2 cents. Dont put any lube on the bottom of the shell plate. All it will do is work its way into the bottom of the primer slide and cause issues. 2 years ago I watched the vid on youtube that was great on showing me how to do a good cleaning of the machine. He did lube the bottom, so I did so also, very sparingly with grease. Not a good idea. I have loaded approx 30,000 rounds on my automated RL1100, still using the same shell plate that came with the machine. never bent an index bolt. I have replaced the index paw once. I do run the Ammobot at a moderate speed of 1400 RPH so its not on kill. Hope this helps .

[Johnnymazz]

Heres a pic of the original plate that came with my machine. I only lube the top where the nut contacts . Notice how some of the grease still gets down into the detent ball. Thats 3,000 rounds since it was serviced.

[Boomstick303]

12 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:

Not a good idea. I have loaded approx 30,000 rounds on my automated RL1100

 

Do you lube guide rods? 

[Cuz]

12 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:

Heres a pic of the original plate that came with my machine. I only lube the top where the nut contacts . Notice how some of the grease still gets down into the detent ball. Thats 3,000 rounds since it was serviced.

Quick question, how much powder gets sprinkled on your shell plate after a few hundred rounds?

 

My 1100 sprinkles TiteGroup to the point that after about 5-700 rounds the press needs cleaning. It could be because the powder mixes with the grease. But it still seems excessive. 
 

Are you saying that pic is after loading 30,000 rounds since the last cleaning???

[Johnnymazz]

21 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:

 

Do you lube guide rods? 

yes, little wipe of motor oil. 

[Johnnymazz]

20 hours ago, Cuz said:

Quick question, how much powder gets sprinkled on your shell plate after a few hundred rounds?

 

My 1100 sprinkles TiteGroup to the point that after about 5-700 rounds the press needs cleaning. It could be because the powder mixes with the grease. But it still seems excessive. 
 

Are you saying that pic is after loading 30,000 rounds since the last cleaning???

No. I tear the whole machine apart after every 10,000 rounds and do a full OCD cleaning. I use a lyman M die to size the case mouth , this will take the snapping out of the powder drop , since you only have to adjust it to drop the powder and not bell the case for bullet seating.

[Johnnymazz]

Lyman M die is in station #3.