Why Bob My Hammer ?

[Walt S]

Been shooting for almost a year now. Been following all the things the big boys are doing so I can improve. It's working slowly. I shot a SW model 10, bobbed the hammer, worked the springs. Then moved up to a model 66 with hammer bobbed, springs changed. Thinking of moving into a model 686 and have it portted for moon clips. But now I'm asking myself, why bob the hammer. Springs, polishing and moon clips makes seanse. WHAT VALUE DO I GET BY BOBBING THE HAMMER ? Thanks guys ....

[spook]

Well, faster hammer drop and thus a lighter trigger pull seems to be the most common reason.

The only attractive thing about it to me is that the spur is out of the way when you shoot (it hits the web of my hand every now and then)

The disadvantage is that its scary to lower the hammer on a full cylinder from SA.

All my revolvers still have the spur.

[underlug]

Been shooting for almost a year now. Been following all the things the big boys are doing so I can improve. It's working slowly. I shot a SW model 10, bobbed the hammer, worked the springs. Then moved up to a model 66 with hammer bobbed, springs changed. Thinking of moving into a model 686 and have it portted for moon clips. But now I'm asking myself, why bob the hammer. Springs, polishing and moon clips makes seanse. WHAT VALUE DO I GET BY BOBBING THE HAMMER ? Thanks guys ....

It may allow you to take a slightly higher grip on the revolver and speed lock time

[pskys2]

If you go to the trouble of Bobbing the Hammer, for faster locktime which allows a lighter Action Job, then put an overtravel stop in the Trigger. Then screw it in so you CAN'T shoot it SA. That way you won't accidentally "Cock" the hammer and have to fumble it back down. Removing the SA this way also seems to reduce vertical stringing at different "Speeds". As the Overtravel is more consistent. That could all be in my head, too.

I have a Clark Action w/hammer spur that is very good at 7#.

My Lee Action w/no spur is great at 4#.

I like having a hammer spur, but the 4# Action is just too good not to use. And as Spook says occassionaly the Spur can hit your hand.

[R112mercer]

Quicker lock time. It also allows for lighter trigger pulls. The faster the hammer goes the more force it will have to strike the primer, thus you don't need as much pressure from the mainspring.

Out of curiousity, you mentioned moving up to a 686 with moons, have you given any thought to the 625? If you're going to put money into a wheelgun for USPSA, the 625 is the place to do it. Plus the moons are real cheap and the gun comes from the factory ready to use them. Not to mention the faster reloads you'll have in a 625. And it makes Major real easy.

[SRT Driver]

As others have said, faster lock time.

One smith I've talked to doesn't like doing them..the reduced mass might cause light primer strikes. And he likes single action for Ransom Rest testing.

Had a Clark with a bobbed hammer that was great and reliable.

[cooper_999]

Out of curiousity, you mentioned moving up to a 686 with moons, have you given any thought to the 625? If you're going to put money into a wheelgun for USPSA, the 625 is the place to do it. Plus the moons are real cheap and the gun comes from the factory ready to use them. Not to mention the faster reloads you'll have in a 625. And it makes Major real easy.

Hi Rob, just to play devils advocat - all your arguments I´ve also with my 586 (Major, clips etc. - and - not to forget - a smaller and easier to handle L-frame....

Of course, you´re right. The easiest way is to buy a 625 - but easy is not always interesting

I like my 586s!

best,

Sascha

[pskys2]

While a bobbed hammer does allow a faster locktime, less movement possible while bullet is exiting (1911 guys go to extremes on this, I've been there), I actually meant faster hammer strike.

Randy Lee's work seems to prove that a lighter, faster hammer strike gives better ignition than a heavy and slow hammer stirke. I had my doubts until I tried it.

I can actually back off the mainspring weight to a pull of under 3 1/2# before I get misfires with my R Lee hammerless light weight 4# action.

While the Clark 7# action job with standard hammer can't be backed off at all, or I get misfires.

BTW the Clark 7# action is on a 4" M29 with moon clip conversion. It's a really neat setup, but the 625 allows more consistant reloads and more readily availabe components.

[Bubber]

Walt, as underlug has stated bobbing the hammer will allow you to get a bit higher on the grip and you won't have the spur hitting your hand. Gripping higher will lower "felt" recoil for the simple reason the distance up to the top is shorter. Like using a small screwdriver to pry with as opposed to a large pry bar. Just my thoughts. Later rdd

[Walt S]

Out of curiousity, you mentioned moving up to a 686 with moons, have you given any thought to the 625? If you're going to put money into a wheelgun for USPSA, the 625 is the place to do it. Plus the moons are real cheap and the gun comes from the factory ready to use them. Not to mention the faster reloads you'll have in a 625. And it makes Major real easy.

There are several reasons why I was thinking of moving to the 686. Because I'm still learning I will probably change my mind and my bank balance several more times. I thought I'd stay with the 38/357 combination because I have all the reloading stuff and I can easily shot MAJOR or MINOR without much effort. I was introduced to the 610 with moon clips and liked it very much, but again, different dies, brass, powder, etc.

THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK and questions. Will keep me thinking.

THANKS EVERYONE. I sure didn't expect this much info in such a short time span. But then this group doesn't waste time in responding. GOOD INFO, thanks to you all.

[R112mercer]

Out of curiousity, you mentioned moving up to a 686 with moons, have you given any thought to the 625? If you're going to put money into a wheelgun for USPSA, the 625 is the place to do it. Plus the moons are real cheap and the gun comes from the factory ready to use them. Not to mention the faster reloads you'll have in a 625. And it makes Major real easy.

Hi Rob, just to play devils advocat - all your arguments I´ve also with my 586 (Major, clips etc. - and - not to forget - a smaller and easier to handle L-frame....

Of course, you´re right. The easiest way is to buy a 625 - but easy is not always interesting

I like my 586s!

best,

Sascha

Sascha;

The great thing about the 625 is:

1- You don't have to drop the $60-80 to get the moonclip modification done.

2- Clips run around $0.50 to $1.00 vs. $2-3 for the .38 clips

3- Major is real easy to make and softer in the .45.

4- I know you use short brass and round nose bullets, but with the 625 these components are much easier to come by and the reload on a 625 can't be beat.

Maybe someday we'll be able to get together and see which gun is faster !

Walt, if you already have the 686, go for it. If you're buying one, think about the 625. I understand you'll have to buy more reloading gear, but the .45 is an easy cartridge to load for. If you get the 625 now you won't have to learn a new gun down the road.

[basman]

Sorry if this is obvious, but will someone explain” lock time"?

Thanks

[R112mercer]

Sorry if this is obvious, but will someone explain” lock time"?

Thanks

Not need to be sorry, there's only one way to learn! Lock time is the time between when the sear releases the hammer/striker and ignition. The shorter the lock time the less chance for something to disturb where the gun is aimed.

[Oldgrey]

Heyas,

Walt, I cast my vote for keeping the hammer. You are shooting USPSA/IPSC, and you never know when you are gonna get one of those handy 50 yard shots. Especially with those new 50-plus yard bays we just got set up. That would be a time where I would go single-action. Maybe even prone. Perhaps others would not, but I guess I just shoot goofy.

Keeping the 686 I also agree with, since you already have it. I would never really bother to shoot major with it, as Special cartridges are a very economical way to get new brass. The accuracy you get with a revolver would make up for the offset in scoring, in my opinion. And .38 Special is just plain fun to shoot! You can concentrate on your skills, not bucking recoil like me and Mr. Kimber.

How far do you guys think you could reliably put shots into the A-zone?

With an auto?

y'all be cool

Grey

[spook]

I think I posted this before somewhere here, but I like to keep the spur to test full clips the night before the match.