Dillon Powder Bar Return Springs

[ScottyPotty]

11 minutes ago, rishii said:

I have the old style powder measures and use both the springs and the fail safe rod, kinda like wearing both a belt and suspenders

the fail safe rod only comes into play on the bottom of the stroke to ensure the powder bar is fully closed

 

The newer powder measures have a lock gadget which keep the operator from double stroking the lever. 

Edited July 20, 2021 by ScottyPotty

[cbrussell]

23 hours ago, ChuckS said:

It took a while to find this thread. I think this was the first time powder measure return springs were discussed here. From 2003

 

 

Unfortunately, the links to the pictures in this old post are dead. I would love to see the pictures Eric posted.

Anyone have them or access to them?

 

[ChuckS]

4 hours ago, cbrussell said:

Unfortunately, the links to the pictures in this old post are dead. I would love to see the pictures Eric posted.

Anyone have them or access to them?

 

The website no longer exists. But the wayback machine caught a snapshot:

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20170417213944/http://www.ericwesselman.com:80/DillonPowderMeasure/

https://web.archive.org/web/20140911075303/http://www.ericwesselman.com/images/PowderUpgradeFront.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20140911080014/http://www.ericwesselman.com/images/PowderUpgradeRear.jpg

 

Edited July 21, 2021 by ChuckS

[Chills1994]

Yes my powder measure is at station #4 .

 

Just thinking out loud here…. 
 

if I could prime at station #3, and leave the Swage It at station #2 that would be awesome.

 

 

 

 

[AHI]

?

[Chills1994]

36 minutes ago, AHI said:

?

Look at my pic on the previous page.

 

Once you do the Dillon Powder measure retrograde, there is no need for the failsafe return rod.

 

In turn, there is no need to keep the powder measure at station #2.

 

what I am doing in the pic on the first page is what I call SPaRR.  Single Pass Rifle Reloading.  If the .223 brass (commercial/civilian once or more fired brass or twice or more fired Lake City brass) measures between 1.74” and 1.76”, then there is no need to trim it.  So it can get fed right into a toolhead, and it goes from an empty fired case to a reloaded round with just a Single Pass through the 650 .

 

The Swage It tool goes in at station #2 where the priming normally happens.  The Swage It tool takes out the crimped primer pockets.

 

Soooo…. In theory if there was a way to move priming to station #3, then I could reload once fired Lake City brass (that was between 1.74” and 1.76” long) in just one Single Pass.

[cbrussell]

13 hours ago, ChuckS said:

The website no longer exists. But the wayback machine caught a snapshot:

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20170417213944/http://www.ericwesselman.com:80/DillonPowderMeasure/

https://web.archive.org/web/20140911075303/http://www.ericwesselman.com/images/PowderUpgradeFront.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20140911080014/http://www.ericwesselman.com/images/PowderUpgradeRear.jpg

 

 

Thanks for the links; now I have a much better idea of how to proceed.

[ChuckS]

1 hour ago, cbrussell said:

 

Thanks for the links; now I have a much better idea of how to proceed.

You are welcome! But, as I pointed out in the 2003 thread, all I did was flatten the fartknocker tab and the measure worked just like the old one without any drilling.

 

Caveat: I did this in 2003 so the details are a tad fuzzy.

 

[cbrussell]

1 minute ago, ChuckS said:

You are welcome! But, as I pointed out in the 2003 thread, all I did was flatten the fartknocker tab and the measure worked just like the old one without any drilling.

 

Caveat: I did this in 2003 so the details are a tad fuzzy.

 

 

 

I like this idea better; saves drilling etc. Thanks for all the help.

[Sigarmsp226]

Fartknocker - I had to read that sentence twice to make sure I read that right…

 

I like that word - Now I got me a new word to use….Fartknocker.  

[RGA]

I like to run the powder measures in station 3 of my 650's so I have to disengage the fail safe contraption and rely on the return spring. Has been working fine for me for nearly 2 decades. The measure on the left is "unmodified".

Edited July 22, 2021 by RGA

[Chills1994]

18 hours ago, cbrussell said:

 

 

I like this idea better; saves drilling etc. Thanks for all the help.

 

That part, #90734, is what i drilled out from the back side.  It is like a rivet.  

 

Then I just got rid of the "fart knocker" part and that torsion spring.

 

 

[78Staff]

On 6/28/2021 at 11:28 PM, N7VY said:

When I bought my first Dillon 650 I removed the fail safe rod first thing and put springs on the powder bar. When I transferred over to a 1050 I kept the same springs. Now over 33k rounds later I couldn’t imagine using the fail safe rod. Your results might vary from mine, just my 2 cents worth. 

 

I use the older style PM on my 550 with 2 springs and no FS rod... I'm right on top of the press and looking down the case so will see a bad charge.

But, I've kept the newer style with the ka-klunk safey rod setup on my 1050 toolheads as that is what came with the toolhead kits, but have often thought of pulling that ka-klunk contraption and switching over to springs only like my 550 PM's...  Only reason I haven't is the location of the PM and also using a MBF, so never see the power.  Figured more safety crap more better in that case.   But, still I'm tempted...

[HawkEyes]

I am a newbie to the reload scene.  Any help appreciated.  I followed the topics and post; I am still confused.  Apparently, there is a past problem with the powder assembly getting in the way of a bullet feeder and the shifting of the powder bar etc.  First of all, I am looking at a picture of a Dillon Quick Change Assembly on Scheels.  It shows to have the two-spring setup in the picture.  I saw a video rant that addressed a change to the system in 2000 removing the springs and using the fail-safe rod.  Has Dillon recanted and moved back to the original spring system?  The other question is, do I need a powder drop

such as an Alpha dropper powder funnel or is everything included in the quick-change purchase.  Also, what type of powder funnel will I need to change calibers or will the small or large powder bar take care of this.  Somewhat confused.  I am waiting on the 750 purchase and just gathering Acessories.

Help and Advice, Welcomed!

 

Hawk Eyes Hudson

[cbrussell]

“HawkEyes,” I modified my powder measure as per “ChuckS” above and installed the two springs; seems to work smoother.

I use the Mr. Bullet Feeder powder drop; it  creates a superior bell for the bullet to sit on. I did polish the inside and outside as well. The powder funnel does not control the amount of powder dropped; that is the function of the powder bar. I have found the small powder bar will load all the pistol calibers I load; the larger powder bar is usually used for rifle calibers. I don’t know if the quick-change kit has includes a powder drop because I do not use the Dillon powder drop; always use the Mr. Bullet Feeder part. If you are using a Mr. Bullet Feeder, it comes with the he caliber specific powder funnel. If not, you can purchase them separately.