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Left handed open shooters


Bakerjd

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So I just got done building my poor mans open gun from BUL Armory full size 2011 government model. I have an evil hands thumb rest on it and once in a while brass will get stuck between my thumb, the rest, the sight mount and the slide. I'm running a 9lb recoil spring and shooting everglades 9 major ammo. Brass ejects slightly rear or straight out the side of the gun. Stock extracor. What would be the first thing I should adjust, or tune?

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Try a 7 or 8 lb spring and see if anything changes.  After that tune the ejector and extractor to kick brass more vertical, assuming your scope mount won't then be in the way.  I like to run my lefty Open 9's with the mount completely forward of the ejection port in recoil so there's nothing for the brass to hit on it's way out except maybe my thumb.

 

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14 hours ago, shred said:

Try a 7 or 8 lb spring and see if anything changes.  After that tune the ejector and extractor to kick brass more vertical, assuming your scope mount won't then be in the way.  I like to run my lefty Open 9's with the mount completely forward of the ejection port in recoil so there's nothing for the brass to hit on it's way out except maybe my thumb.

 

Going to try out the spring first then see if I need to tune extractor or ejector. I'm currently running a c more railway so its basicly blocking any upward brass. I do have a mount for a SRO and RTS2 just havent swapped those on yet. 

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It is difficult to get a 9 with a full-size C-more mount to eject random 9mm brass 100% of the time.  Easier if you can pick specific brass to tune with since 9 brass has been made for more than a hundred years in hundreds of different places.

 

The small dots made 9 open much less finicky because with the mount forward enough there's nothing for the brass to hit on it's way out.

 

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3 hours ago, shred said:

It is difficult to get a 9 with a full-size C-more mount to eject random 9mm brass 100% of the time.  Easier if you can pick specific brass to tune with since 9 brass has been made for more than a hundred years in hundreds of different places.

 

The small dots made 9 open much less finicky because with the mount forward enough there's nothing for the brass to hit on it's way out.

 

Good to know. I think I'll swap over a different mount and optic and continue testing. 

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3 hours ago, shred said:

It is difficult to get a 9 with a full-size C-more mount to eject random 9mm brass 100% of the time.  Easier if you can pick specific brass to tune with since 9 brass has been made for more than a hundred years in hundreds of different places.

 

This is also partially the reason why 90-degree C-more mounts exist, right? 

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7 hours ago, regor said:

 

This is also partially the reason why 90-degree C-more mounts exist, right? 

I would think so. I just find it weird looking. 

 

Side note. Removed mount and found all 5 screw holes buggered up. So before I put the new m loop until on I get to drill/tap them for 6-40. What a joy. This project poors open gun is going two steps forward and 1 step back every time I mess with it. Ahh well. In the end it will be worth it...... I hope.

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16 hours ago, regor said:

 

This is also partially the reason why 90-degree C-more mounts exist, right? 

Yep, sideways and offset mounts get the mount out of the way of the ejecting brass.   90's also get the dot closer to the bore line.

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On 11/28/2020 at 5:54 PM, shred said:

Find Brazos' article on tuning ejectors for ejecton pattern.  It was in Front Sight, probably quite a while back, but USPSA makes the archives available to members.

 

1911store.com is where you can find those old but very informative Brazo’s magazine articles.  Lower left side of the 1st. page. Good luck 

1D110C52-8404-4AF1-87EE-68312FA9FCD3.jpeg

Edited by a matt
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Thanks for the info everyone. I think I read every article Brazos had on the site. I may even print them fpr future use. (I hate reading on my phone when my hands get dirty) I installed an aftec extractor because I had one laying around. When I inspected the original after removing it I found the tooth chipped just a tiny bit when inspecting with magnifying glass. Should have the new ejector in early this week and installed by the weekend. And have the new mount and SRO installed. Then some good ol range time is in order. 

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20 hours ago, a matt said:

I’m glad Bob took the time to write all these articles for mags.  Really good info 

People still tune mags? Dont get me wrong I'm sure its still needed I've just been lucky and never had to. 😎

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So what are all you lefty shooters using for holsters with your open guns?  I’ve always used nice sturdy BladeTech kydex holsters, so some of the race holsters don’t give me a warm fuzzy feeling regarding gun retention. 
 

I was considering a CR Speed, but in the left hand configuration the locking lever is on the inside and it seems like it would be too hard to reach. 

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I've used Ghost (both pin and non), CR, Safariland (older models-- 009, 010, 011,...), DAA and Limcat left-handed race holsters over the years.  Of those I liked the CR least.

 

I hear good things about the latest Safariland and the Everglades but not messed enough with them to know.

 

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1 hour ago, shred said:

I've used Ghost (both pin and non), CR, Safariland (older models-- 009, 010, 011,...), DAA and Limcat left-handed race holsters over the years.  Of those I liked the CR least.

 

I hear good things about the latest Safariland and the Everglades but not messed enough with them to know.

 


shred,

was it easy to reach and use the locking lever on the CR Speed in left handed configuration?

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22 hours ago, Cuz said:

So what are all you lefty shooters using for holsters with your open guns?  I’ve always used nice sturdy BladeTech kydex holsters, so some of the race holsters don’t give me a warm fuzzy feeling regarding gun retention. 
 

I was considering a CR Speed, but in the left hand configuration the locking lever is on the inside and it seems like it would be too hard to reach. 

I used a DAA Alpha X, liked it a lot. Was my first venture into race holster. Just switched to the Safariland 015. Between the two I like the 015 better. Both will hang up if you dont draw straight but the 015 seems more forgiving. The lock lever on the 015 is WAY better. Big enough to hit when you want to leave the holster locked for an awkward start position but not in the way at all if you unlock it. The feel of the gun "clicking" into the holster is better on the DAA though. But not a big deal. I just lock the 015 then give it a slight tug before coming off the gun. Rigidity of the hanger is equal. With me being 6'3" and having long arms I do wish you could drop either holster down further but I havent seen a way to do it with either. Have heard rumer that the 014 drop mount works on the 015 though. If you switch between say cheely and a tanfo or CZ or what ever amd want to keep everything the same get the DAA. If you are going to stick to a common grip/trigger guard get the 015. Either one like I said can hang up on the draw but I just put a dab of my normal oil on the sides of the trigger guard before the match and holster/draw a few times at the safe table then wipe the trigger guard off and that seems to cure it. If it's a long match I may do it again at lunch. Hmm.. what else. Ohh if you travel the 015 is very easy to take down and stow in luggage. 015 comes with the little thigh pad, DAA doesnt. I think that about aums it up from what I can think of. Oh one more thing. If you have a BUL Armory with plastic grip the 015 will not let it lock in. 

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20 hours ago, Cuz said:


shred,

was it easy to reach and use the locking lever on the CR Speed in left handed configuration?

I think I was able to flip it to the other side maybe, but that was many years ago.  My biggest annoyance with the CR was the lock is more like a detent.  On some other race holsters you have to break something to get the pistol to come out from a locked holster whereas you can pull through the CR.  A good bump at the right angle can also pop a gun out.  The first is ok, the second is not.

 

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Got everything "fit" and gun back together. Cycled some test rounds though it and have run into an issue. Luckily the test rounds have no powder and dead primers because when racking them out they get caught between ejector and right upper corner of ejection port. I belive this means I need to cut the tip of the ejector back. Will be re reading the Brazos info and found a good write up by Harris Design. 

 

Edit: read over the Brazos and Harris Design write ups and neither talk about this that I can find. Hmm. I think it needs to be shortened?

 

Edit #2: reinstalled old ejector and cut it back some. The nose is just flat unlike the Brazos tuned one. Same issue except this time I checked ejection port for Mark's of brass gitting it and didnt see any. Check the thumb rest and bam found where the round is getting stuck. It hits the very top edge of the thumb rest. So.... should I angle the ejector so it hits case lower and angle the inside of the thunb rest for more room for round to exit? Or only one of the two? Also I'm not sure if I stated this before in the thread so I'll say it now just incase. I didnt have any ejection issues until I installed the thumb rest. It's the evil hands one so it comes back pretty far. I have it mounted just in front of the slide stop pin. I dont want to move it forward if at all possible. I'm thinking I may have to end up cutting the side of it that covers the ejection port or relive it some. 

 

Any advise is very much welcome and appreciated. 

 

Thanks!

Josh Baker

Edited by Bakerjd
More detail, even more details
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 I’ve mount my evil hand way back, toward the grip w/o any issues.  
I would only do one change/modification  

at a time and check it with live fire.

 I’m sure you know, in live fire the gun will do things we can’t duplicate in dry-fire.  Most guns need a little fine tuning, including ejection. I’ve heard of 9mm open guns can be finicky with ejection but with my open 9’s, I haven’t had issues that were unique to 9. I did tune each gun to its liking with the ejection and I little bit can change a lot.  Just take a good fine file to the range one day and just plan on shooting and removing the slide and tuning it a few times to get your guns sweet spot.  The cases will never eject in the same little area like my comp does but I just want it out and away and I care if the cases chase the RO.  Lol 

Edited by a matt
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You are still running the full-size C-more vertical?  If so you need all the ejection port area you can get.  I'd cut down or move the thumb rest so it's not blocking anything.  They are a 'nice to have', not a 'must have' like reliable ejection.  Max kicked everyone's butt without one for many years.

 

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No argument about what Max ran or runs but Max wins what Max win, because of Max. He won with Badell’s 2011’s and he is still doing it with a Sig in CO. When Max started his shooting career many of the things we use now weren’t around.  If he started shooting and winning with or without something, why would he change what he wins with?

He’s tried the metal grip and a thumb-rest but didn’t like them so he doesn’t use them. That exactly what he told us in one of his classesIf. If  he started winning with both you can bet he would be running them today on his open guns, If he wasn’t shooting and winning in CO.

Most shooters of this day and age want metal grips and thumb rests when legal,  even if it’s an iffy rule like we have in the production division. 


 Being a lefty and running a thumb rest just takes a little more attention to the details but once you get the ejection right, you’re good. At least till you change something or a part fails.
The Cmore slide-ride with a reg mount, is an issue for 9mm because of it’s size. It causes the same ejection issue for right and left handed shooters running it on 2011’s,  funny the Czechmate runs fine with a slide ride Cmore in 9mm for left or right handed shooters. Change it if you’re running a Slide-ride or shoot new brass, that’s the only way to make a 2011 in 9major eject it’s brass consistently. Cheers 

Edited by a matt
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