earlan357

I enlarged the hole in the front of the slide for the fatter Legion rod. Added a Lok TSO magwell and cleaned up the hammer hooks. Tuned the sear spring for a 2.5# break. Modified a flat bottom FP stop to fit. Seems happiest with a 10# Wolff recoil spring and 19# mainspring. Also, my carbide throating reamer arrived after 8 weeks. Rounds plunk without issue now. I sent it to Vulcan Machine Werks for RMR milling and Cerakote. I normally black nitride, but I figured the slide is DLC over stainless and the cut is mostly sealed off by the optic. Got a Lok TSO magwell and made a tungsten guide rod while I was waiting. Mag well leaves a slight gap at the rear when lined up with the mag opening. My 507Comps arrived this week too.

Just picked up two. Here's the reticle options on a uspsa target scaled for 7 yards.

It quantifies everything you feel in the trigger pull and reset. It shows the trigger weight measured every .025mm or roughly .001" of the the pull. So you could select the gen5 dot trigger that comes stock in a G17 and compare it to another configuration. Here's a cheat sheet on how to make sense of the lines.

Sorry about that. Fixed.

Tested with all oem connectors

I wasn't impressed with the QC. Mine fluctuated between .312" at the base and tip but expanded to .317" in the middle. Tells me they didn't have the feed speeds setup properly to prevent it from bowing while it was being turned. The finish was smooth but uneven, Like it was done by hand with a buffing wheel. I used mine with 1911 springs so I can't tell you the OD of the spring they use. The OD of the base was .503" if that helps.

The spring isn't that hard to get to. You push out the ejector from the rear, then the "sear pin", then push-n-twist to get the spring guide out. A regular gen5 spring won't work. This peformance spring has additional dead coils and is flat ground to prevent it kinking on the shaft. I did some calculations and settled on a few custom spring specs I sent to our spring manufacturer at work. Testing now. Glock Performance Trigger Graph

So I uploaded my trigger test rig data to a public interactive graph. Tested a stock Gen5 trigger and Glock Performance with OEM connectors. They're stock other than about 1000 dry fires to break them in. I also tested a "P1" custom spring I'm working on. Everything can be filtered for easy comparison. Below is a cheat sheet on how to interpret the graphs. I ended up reprogramming the rig so now it takes into account the additional overtravel created when the trigger is pinned back and the slide is cycled. This shows the true reset distance. I had to set the "finger" of the rig a little lower than where your finger naturally rests due to clearance issues, so the weights are about 15% lighter than what you'd expect, but they're consistent and repeatable enough to make valid comparisons. Link to graph: Glock Performance Trigger Graph Graph cheat sheet:

I had a gen5 slide blank milled for a similar setup. I modified it to accept a longslide 1911 recoil spring. All that preload let’s me run an 11# equivalent spring and still have plenty of oomph to close the slide against a 5# striker spring. So even though peak spring force is reduced, it’s near factory in battery. Also made a fat tungsten guide rod to match.

Played with my DWX over the weekend while shooting 25y B8 drills. Threw in a 19# mainspring and replaced the sear spring. The factory sear spring’s sear leg was slightly short and a pita to position correctly. Tried a WC 13# flatwire recoil spring but really preferred an ISMI Glock 17 11# spring. Despite the lower rating, the Glock spring was returning the front sight level while the WC was returning slightly high with 130PF 147gr. Probably due to longer free length and increased preload. Picked up a 1911 flat bottom FP stop to play with in the shop. The firing pin hole is drilled lower in the DWX but I can throw it in the mill at work to make it match. I took some measurements and the slide will fit a standard 1911 round wire recoil spring. I’m going to open up the recoil spring hole and modify an X5 Legion guide rod to fit. Opens up spring tuning to the full suite of 1911 springs and adds a little more weight under the muzzle. The factory mag release felt a bit stiff even after a bit of buffing. Picked up a Wolff reduced power 1911 spring pack. The #3 felt just right. Also, LOK palm swell Veloce grips for the Shadow2 feel just as good on the DWX as my SP-01. Once I get the guide rod and fp stop situated, it’s off for optic milling.

I adapted my G34 Gen5 to take a longslide 1911 spring with a custom reverse plug. By extending the recoil spring tunnel all the way to the muzzle, I can use a longer length spring with a much lower spring rate. At full recoil the spring is 11#, but 8# with the slide closed. So I get a lightweight recoil spring that still has enough force to reliably close the slide against a full power striker spring. I turned a max diameter tungsten guide rod that came out to 3.8oz.

When my new shoe comes in I'll run it with (-), (.), unmarked, and a (+).

My Glock Performance trigger arrived today so I dusted off my trigger dyno. The Factory and Timney triggers have less than 500 rounds through them, while the Glock Performance is new out of the box. All were cleaned and wiped down with Slip2k. All used the same slide and a 4.5# "dot" connector. Keep in mind that most people measure trigger weight at the tip near the trigger guard. While this makes it easier to get consistent readings, it's lower than where your finger actually rests and gives a lighter reading than actual. The "finger" on my rig pulls where I do, about 2/3 down the face of the trigger. The Performance trigger starts about 4mm farther forward in the trigger guard than the factory. Both have a total travel of about 10.5mm. The Timney starts about 1mm farther back than the factory, and the overall travel is reduced to about 8mm. The Performance trigger reduced overtravel to about 0.6mm, while the Factory and Timney remained close to 1.2mm. The Performance trigger’s safety blade spring is quite strong so it tends to catch on the frame if your finger isn't perfectly square to the face. While the wall is clearly defined, the break is pretty mushy. Hopefully it’ll smooth out with use. I'm going to revisit this with a Timney shoe to get a more equal comparison. I also have some custom springs on order. I should be able to reduce the break weight by 8-12 oz but maintain the same reset force. Hopefully I can combine that with a heavier connector to get a crisper break and shorter reset while keeping the break under 3#. Testing.mp4

A G17 length guide rod is long enough. The P10F shares nearly the same amount of travel and free space for the spring as the P10C, so G17 springs will bind and reduce rear travel. A Wolff or Springco roundwire spring for a G19 works with the .275" diameter rod and won't coil bind.

The CGW SS rod weighs 0.7oz. The Jentra .275" Heavy weighs 2.0oz after it's cut to length.

A 2oz package of JB Weld is probably enough for 3-4 grips. The SC layer is .015-.017” thick. About the same as a business card.

I just SC'd my 2nd frame. I de-greased the frame with rubbing alcohol then masked off the edges with 1mm wide flexible vinyl tape used for masking pinstripes on cars. Much easier to bend around curves. Then extended the mask with strips of blue painter's tape. Roughened up the smooth areas with 220-grit and cleaned with more alcohol. Painted on JB-Weld Original Cold-Weld. Sprinkled on 60/90 all over the frame, lightly pat it down(wear nitrile gloves), sprinkle more , pat some more, repeat a few times. Let it sit for an hour then carefully removed the tape. Sprinkled more media on the exposed glue and used a plastic pick and old credit card to straighten out lines. Then let it cure for 24 hours before handling. Prepped. Painted with JB-Weld Right after peeling the paint.

How did you redo it? Did you grind off the old SC or just put another layer on top?

Well crap. That sucks because the opening itself narrower than my gen5 Glock34. Can I thin it? Does USPSA have a max width dimension or is it a judgement call? Worst case I can just hack up an X-frame.

I just got mine and love the ergos. Points higher than the standard grip, but lower than the X-Grip. My favorite part is how the front lip of the magwell pushes up on my pinky and wedges my fingers against the trigger guard. The trigger guard is nicely raised so it doesn't rub at all my middle finger knuckle. Size wise it feels like a standard medium grip module. I found that Legion/X-grips are too wide at the top near the tang and dig into my thumb knuckle. My only complaint is that the texture on the sides is way too slick and with the way they cut out out the thumb area, my support palm doesn't have any traction. So I went ahead and SC'd the grip. This will be on my CO gun once matches start up again.

So I realized that a 1911 spring plug fit perfectly in my P320C slide. I just had to trim off the rear so it wouldn't stick out past the slide dustcover. I used a GrayGuns Fat p228 rod, a custom made rod, and a G19 rod to try out some springs. Results: OEM Sig P228 Blue spring: Unmodified but barely closes the slide OEM P250C spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. Wolff 15# P228 spring: Unmodified but cannot close the slide against the striker spring. ISMI 15# Glock 19 spring: Had to cut off 5 coils before the slide would travel fully to the rear. Cannot close the slide. S&W M&P 2.0 3.6" OEM spring: Unmodified but is heavier than OEM P320C spring near end of stroke CZ P10F OEM spring: Had to cut to cut off 4 coils to maintain slide travel. Feels similar to OEM spring but with reduced preload. So only the M&P 2.0 3.6" and cut down P10F spring will actually fit in my P320C. The problem is, both reduce pre-load but not final weight when the slide is fully back. Since there's no hammer to delay the slide, this is the opposite of what I want. Without extending the slide to allow for a longer spring, the 2-piece oem setup is more ideal. So I picked up an extra inner spring, then took my OEM recoil spring apart and cut off 2 coils. It's not as easy as an uncaptured rod, but not a big deal if you have a sturdy vise. My friend asked me how to take one apart so I made a quick video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_zbdjbSiQA I'll try the single springs but I'm 99% certain the modified oem spring will function better.

If it works, you’ll be able to make your own.

Look at the bottom of the slide. There's a ramp near the front of the rib that runs down the center just before the breechface. So even though you can get the mag seated when loaded to 23, as the slide retracts, the ramp has to push the top round down further into the mag. If there isn't enough free space in the mag, it will create a ton of mechanical resistance as the slide starts to travel rearward since the mag spring is bottomed out. You'll probably notice a huge difference in effort when retracting a closed slide on 23 vs 22 rounds. A lighter recoil spring won't help much in this case. Most striker fired guns have this ramp while I've never seen one on a hammer-fired gun. I think the ramp uses the pressure from compressing the top round to slow the slide down a bit since there's no hammer to provide the same resistance early in the slide stroke. Fortunately, as you use the magazine, the springs should settle a bit. So instead of stacking perfectly on top of each other, they shift around a bit and open up a little more space for the spring to compress. I've heard some guys can load 24 rounds into their XDM mags, but I think the 5.25" XDMs don't have a ramp on the center rib.

Gonna try out an OEM "white" spring from a P228/229, an OEM P250C round wire, and a 15# P228 spring from Wolff. Hopefully the Wolff works since it's available in a wide variety of weights. The biggest problem is there's only .682" of space for the spring when the slide is fully to the rear with my adapter plug and guide rod. I'm using a modified 1911 guide rod right now with a base thickness of .070". The plug takes up another .083". I have a GrayGuns fat rod for a 228/229 on the way which should have a thinner base. If I need more room, I think the hollow P228 oem guiderod has an even thinner lip. Hopefully that's enough because I don't want to ream the slide for a reverse plug.

Guide rod is done. Chopped an old XD spring as a place holder. Not strong enough to keep the slide closed. Just waiting for the spring to arrive on Monday.