G-35 Upper On G-34 Lower

[rack&roll]

I'll try to keep this short, and I thank you beforehand for any help or feedback.

I bought a G-34 to shoot Prod. Later, I decided to buy a complete G-35 upper, ejector, and mags (w/ Arr. +5 ext.) to shoot limited major. I already had the .40 barrel, mags, and ejector, Dale Rhea trigger job, and bought the rest from Glockmeister. Sights from Dawson. I put it all together on my G-34 frame, and it works flawlessly. No jams or malfunctions with factory ammo or reloads. So far, so good.

The problem is, it is incredibly innaccurate with any ammo. The first shot @ 45' was dead-center bullseye. I thought...great! (This was from a rest position, very carefully aimed) I repeated the process, and thought I'd put the next shot in the same hole. Wrong. It was a good 4" outside the black on a 25yrd. NRA Bullseye target. I continued this slow, deliberate, rest-firing for 20 rounds, and the results looked like a scatter gun. There was no group at all, and more than half of the shots were 6" from the bullseye. I shot my match that day with it (had to) and had my worst score in a year. I even let some others shoot it (before the match) with the same results. Since then, I have put about 200 more rounds through it supported, offhand and with the same results. (Yes, the sights are very securely red-loctited and stable.)

What's going on here? The gun shoots and feels normal. Zero malfuntions. As tightly (or loosely) fit as any Glock I've owned. I've never had a Glock that was this inaccurate and inconsistant. It's as if gremlins are gleefully & randomly changing my sight adjustments between shots! High, low, right, left. Please, any help or opinions would really be appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

Larry

[Nik Habicht]

Tried different ammo? Factory Ammo? Did you change the locking block? Come to think of it ---- checking the GlockMeister stock parts reference, I see that the 35 requires a different locking block. My guess would be that you've got some slop in the lockup ---- even if you can't see or feel it with the naked eye/hand.....

So: Change locking block. Repeat test --- with more than one brand of ammo....

[Kevin Kline]

Nik,

I think you're right. I dont know about the part numbers, (Im sure you're right), but in looking at the different locking blocks (Ive been playing with different uppers and lowers when I was trying to get my Prod 34 rather than buying one) they do seem a little different.

I saw the 34 locking blocks had one set legs on both sides and the 35 or .40 blocks had two sets of legs on both sides. The 35 locking block looked like there was more beef to it and the 34 block looked trimmed down.

But then again, I just got a 24 and believe the locking block on it (a .40) was trimmed down like the 34. Now, I dont know if Glock redesigned the locking block for the 9's and 40's or my 24 accidentally has the smaller trimmed down locking block.

[open17]

Don't forget to take a REALLY close look at the barrel crown. It doesn't take much of a ding or burr to make a good barrel shoot bad.

[Kevin Kline]

Good idea Open17, didnt even think of that.

[rack&roll]

Thanks for the responses, everybody.

Yes, I've tried lots of different ammo. Factory and reloads. All about the same.

I inspected the barrel tonight for burrs at the crown, and I don't see anything suspicious. However, I did see that a portion of the barrel (2" from the muzzle to the crown) looks like it is either badly leaded, or pitted! All 6 grooves! This is supposed to be a new barrel, and I don't shoot lead. I tried to get it out, but it won't budge even with chore-boy and a brush & solvent. Even tried a lead removal patch. I may have found the culprit! Maybe this barrel wasn't so "new"?

I know the older 34's had only two pins, and the new design has 3 just like the 35. I think all the small frame 9mm & .40 guns are 3 pins, now. Is this what you are referring to, regarding the locking block? I didn't know the 34 and 35 had different locking blocks. I thought the frames were the same except the ejector. Maybe that's my problem? That would be a simple (though unexpected) solution.

Update: I received a KKM stock replacement barrel today from GM. It is beautiful! A work of art. I'll try it tomorrow (Sat. 27th) and see how it goes. If it still won't print a decent group, it's GOT to be the locking block. BTW, the 34 & 35 both use the same firing pin, don't they?

Thanks again, and feel free to post any ideas that might help. I will follow up with a report. Thanks.

Larry

[rack&roll]

I shot the gun tonight with the KKM barrel, and SHE-ZAM!!!...what a difference! It shoots like a bullseye gun. One ragged hole @ 50', to use a worn-out description.

I also compared locking blocks between a friend's 35 and my 34 frame today, and there is no difference that either of us could discern with the naked eye. Felt the same weight, also. Mine had a #9 stamped on it, and his had a # 12 stamped on it. Other than that, they seemed identical. Went to Glockmeister, and they do show them listed as different part #'s. I went ahead and ordered a 35 locking block & pin from them, just in case.

Upon looking at my 34 barrel, I noticed the same fouling (?), leading (?) as in my stock 35 barrel. I finally got most of it out of both of them by soaking it in bore solvent overnight. I don't think that was causing the poor accuracy in the 35, as the 34 is a veritable tackdriver. (for a stock Glock) I just think the stock 35 barrel I bought (at a gunshow) is a sloppy fit to my particular gun. Might be a great fit in someone else's.

Bottom line is, I think the problem is solved with the KKM barrel. It's every bit as accurate as I need, and I'm very happy with it. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, now I can get back to just focusing on what I should be doing. Shooting!

Larry

[SCulp]

Isn't the ejector different on the 35 compared to the 34. I was just wondering if it would cause any trouble. I have a 35 and a 34 and was wondering if I could swap top ends and everything run smoothly.

[Kevin Kline]

Isn't the ejector different on the 35 compared to the 34. I was just wondering if it would cause any trouble. I have a 35 and a 34 and was wondering if I could swap top ends and everything run smoothly.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You should be able to, I would just watch shooting the .40 through the 9mm frame gun. The .40 frame has an extra pin and is probably beefed up a little to handle the hotter .40 load. The ejector for the 9mm is curved I believe and the .40 ejector is straight. You can also take the ejector's out and replace them, they pull straight out, when the gun is disassembled.

[boo radley]

Interesting thread; I've wondered the same. Now that I have a G35, it gave me a chance to pull the tops off, and examine the locking blocks closely.

To my eyes, and probably poor use of a dial calipers, I don't see any difference between the two locking blocks, except one is stamped "4" (.40) and the other stamped "7" (9mm). Also, one is 4 grains heavier than the other -- 205 vs. 201gr. I'm not sure how significant this quarter gram difference is....

Here's a picture:

I also took a picture of the two pistols side by side. The only difference I can detect is that the extractor on the 9 is bent. Kevin -- what extra pin does the 40 have?

[Kevin Kline]

Well, after checking the 24 I just got, it doesnt have a second pin. The .40 Glocks used to have two pins by the trigger/locking block pin. The 9mm's still had one pin for the locking block/trigger and the .40's had two pins. I had always heard the .40 had two pins to help b/c the .40 has more pressure and recoil.

I just looked at my 24 yesterday and (I believe) I noticed it only has one pin. Flex or anybody else, is this new?

[Heath]

Older style frames had one pin. The newer style frames have two pins. I'm pretty sure that this is the case for all the small-frame Glocks.

Ejectors are certainly different and a new one is definitely required for the conversion. Using a 9mm ejector on a .40 might be a bit dangerous as the ejector could strike the primer. I know the firing pins are marked for their specific cartridge, but I don't know if there is any real difference between them.

[skeeter]

glock added 2 pins to the locking block for the 40's. then changed all the frames to 2 pins so they would be the same.

if you have a 24 with only 1 pin it most be very old (my24 is 10 years old and has 2) or someone put a 9 mm frame on it. is it a gen. 1 frame? or 2 or 3?

[Kevin Kline]

glock added 2 pins to the locking block for the 40's. then changed all the frames to 2 pins so they would be the same.

  if you have a 24 with only 1 pin it most be very old (my24 is 10 years old and has 2) or someone put a 9 mm frame on it. is it a gen. 1 frame? or 2 or 3?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yep, my apologies, my 24 has two pins as well as my new 17. Now, most every small frame Glock I have has two pins. The locking block on the 9's and 40's are chopped in half though, compared to what they used to be. Anybody see what I mean or have new and old Glocks?

[fishnfst]

I was told that the two strikers are different but I've checked them everywhich way and they seem like they are the same to me.... I'm currently using a striker out of my 22 in a 17 and it works great....

To the person wanting to shoot 40's out of a 9mm frame you should really change the ejector... The 9mm ejector is bent inwards and will strike a .40 case really close to the primer... It's an easy swap and only takes a few minutes.. And the parts are too cheap not to keep a spare trigger housing and ejector around....

[rack&roll]

fishnfst,

I did change to a .40 ejector. I said so in my original post. Oh, and the strikers are the same. Thanks, anyway.

Kevin,

I talked to a techie at GM, and he said all the new 34 and 35's have the 2 pins and use the same locking block.

BTW, as I said, my accuracy problem is solved. The KKM barrel and my 35 are a great fit. Now, if I could only get ME to shoot more accurately! My performance today at our local Tue. night practice match was dismal. Not the gun's fault, mine.

Larry

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

So all that's needed to run a 35 upper on a 34 lower is to swap out the ejector housings?

[BOOM]

Same as above; Please give list of parts, Thanks

[9x45]

G17/G34/G17L/G22/G35/G24/G31 frames are all the same. You only need to change the ejector and extractor. The ejector only comes with the trigger housing now, part number SP01896. And the extractor is part number 1899. The older square sided extractor is part number 6908.

[mikeyjones]

G17/G34/G17L/G22/G35/G24/G31 frames are all the same. You only need to change the ejector and extractor. The ejector only comes with the trigger housing now, part number SP01896. And the extractor is part number 1899. The older square sided extractor is part number 6908.

Extractor should be part of the G35 slide.