Heath

Older style frames had one pin. The newer style frames have two pins. I'm pretty sure that this is the case for all the small-frame Glocks. Ejectors are certainly different and a new one is definitely required for the conversion. Using a 9mm ejector on a .40 might be a bit dangerous as the ejector could strike the primer. I know the firing pins are marked for their specific cartridge, but I don't know if there is any real difference between them.

I found an article on Brownell's site that refers to the benefits of cryogenic stress relief in tooling: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...x?p=0&t=1&i=478 It's an interesting read. Apparently, cryo-treatment can produce some amazing results on the wear resistance of tool steels.

Hot and dry?

Truly a Freudian slip there, we know what you meant. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oops. That was exactly how I felt after my performance in the last match.

I'm not making the contention that cryo-treating has no discernable effect, just that it isn't particularly beneficial to accuracy in rifle barrels. Certainly, further stresses are relieved and it is more beneficial in other applications as GuildSF4 describes. Lilja mentions that it increases the useful life of the barrel somewhat, which could be beneficial, depending on the cost of the treatment. He also mentions that it improves machinability for some reason that isn't well understood. This point bothers me as it seems like it would be a simple matter to examine the crystalline structure of the metal pre and post cryo treatment and draw some conclusion about the differences. As Eric stated, though. It wouldn't be difficult to qualify the benefits using scientific methods. I don't believe that anyone has done this to date.

Any shift in POI from POA is a reduction of accuracy. Based on Lilja's article and as I understand it, barrels with residual stresses as a result of being button-rifled can be more prone to POI shifting due to heat. This is why Lilja and others using button rifling heat treat and stress-relieve barrels after rifling. Production barrels are cold-forged and have broach-cut rifling. These processes apparently do not build up significant residual stress and can be heat-treated anywhere along the process. Further, Lilja writes, "We have been told by a knowledgeable metallurgist that the deep cold treatment will, at best, remove up to 6% of the remaining stresses in the type of steel used for rifle barrels." If this is the case and the rifle does suffer from POI-shift do to residual stresses, then cryo-treating isn't going to completely solve the problem. I am disinclined to believe that any kind of wonder process is going to improve accuracy without having seen significant research on the subject. The firearms industry is full of snake oil salesmen.

Dan Lilja has some opinions on the cryogenic stress relief of barrels here: http://www.riflebarrels.com/faq_lilja_rifl...m#deepcryogenic The short version is that it can't hurt, but that there aren't significant noticeable benefits to accuracy.

Even if she had an IFR rating, I'm pretty sure that her aircraft isn't certificated for IFR conditions given that it lacks the necessary avionics.

Thanks for the tips. I just read a description of what is happening on Matt Burkett's site under tips on recoil control. Tension is actually building in my strong hand while I'm shooting. I'm just going to have to do much more live fire practice to overcome this.

I've got the Wolff competition spring pack in my G35 and a 15Lb ISMI recoil spring and have no problems at all.

Though it's no shortcoming in your product, which is awesome, after having used both, I prefer the texture of the 3M stuff. However, I suspect that there aren't many people that share my preference.

I started shooting seriously in April of this year. Initially, went through about 3k rounds a month and improved pretty quickly. I took some time off last month and now my skills have dropped significantly. One problem that I'm having is breaking the second shot on a controlled pair. I've been shooting fairly inaccurately lately and think I've discovered why. I can track the sights just fine, and try to break the shot as the front sight settles into the notch. However, I've noticed that there is a significant amount of side-to-side wobble as the front sight settles back down. To get a hit with the second shit, I have to wait a long time for the movement to stop. I suspect that I may be over-gripping the gun and trying to fight the recoil. I'd be interested to know of any kind of drills or practice regimes that I could utilize to eliminate this problem and improve accuracy overall. I can't come up with a quick solution other than to shoot more and at longer ranges.

Precision Delta sells 180gr jacketed for $62.50/1000 shipped, which is a pretty good deal. http://www.precisiondelta.com/ I haven't used them, but other folks on the board have. A search will yield some reviews. What powders are better than TG for 200gr bullets?

You can buy more accuracy. It requires an investment in ammunition, and given that 9mm is cheaper than .40S&W, that's what I'd recommend. However, since you already own a G23, it might payoff more to just use what you have and save the money to buy ammo.

I'm a fan of plain old Coke with plain old whisky in a glass as well. Lately, I'm starting to lean more towards just the whisky and the glass, though. I must be getting old, because I remember when I thought the taste of single-malt was one of the worst things imaginable.

Several people have recommended "Zen in the Art of Archery" to me. I suppose I should read it.

I just got the Dawson FO front for the Glock Bomar rear and I'm really liking it. They make fronts for Bomars, Heinies, stock sights, and their own rear sights in a couple different widths, .090 and .125, I believe.

It's got wings and it goes in space. Why the hell would anything in space need wings? It's got windows that takes a crew of four PhD's 3 weeks to polish after every mission. Why the hell does it need windows? It's also got a 2% failure rate. Haven't these guys heard of five nines reliability? Propulsion technology being what it is, it's much cheaper to put things in space with 50's technology than with the crap on the space shuttle. Custom-built one-off cryo parts are damned expensive. Build something from COTS stuff and fly it around. Private industry would be doing that, but it's hard to compete when all of your competitors are subsidized by the government.

I think the new 15Lb string did the trick. I just went through 100 rounds without a malfunction. I've also learned that I can't shoot weak-hand only.

There's no reason that a drill press wouldn't work, assuming it's fairly decent, has very little runout and you had the right tooling to drill/cut hardened steel. I'd also be concerned about compressing the slide, which could be mitigated with the right jig. Speeds and feeds are also important.

I tend to agree with what Flexmoney stated. Stock triggers on Glocks can be a hindrance. I've seen some that are worse than others. A bit of polishing and a set of springs can fix that right up for about eleven dollars and twenty-five cents ($11 for the springs and $.25 for the polish). I would contend that a reasonably talented shooter wouldn't be able to improve his game going from a 2.5-3.5Lb trigger to a 1.5-2.5Lb trigger. However, I have dry-fired a 1.5Lb trigger on a Glock. I have no idea how reliable it was, but it sure felt nice. One thing that I don't undertand is why people drill a new hole for the trigger return spring when one can simply get a stronger spring and use that without changing the angle. Anyone know?

Odd. The mystery spring could be any weight, so it's difficult to really say what might be causing the problem which didn't start until after I put the tungsten guide rod in. However, it was several hundred rounds afterwards and it happens so frequently, it leads me to wonder if something else had changed or whether it could be a combination of factors. I'm using 10rd mags because they're really cheap and I'm shooting production. I've only had them for about six months, but I left all the mags full for a couple of weeks after I got 'em to reduce the spring pressure a bit. The malfunction could be a combination of weak mag springs along with something else. It only happens in the last two or three rounds of a mag. As you stated, Glocks are notoriously reliable, so having malfunctions is pretty disconcerting. I really like the feel of the tungsten guide rod so I'd prefer not to have to get rid of it as a result of reliability issues. In any case, I'll start with a spring of a known weight and work from there. I also haven't put the stock guide rod back in to see if the problem is reproducible. One other thing to do would be to see if WH shooting causes the problem to occur more frequently.

Someone gave me a tungsten guide rod for my G35 with an unspecified weight ISMI spring. I ran it through a match and it worked just fine. However, since then I've started getting FTF malfunctions with major PF ammo. The bullet does a nose dive on the (highly polished) feed ramp and the round doesn't get completely stripped off the magazine. I'm wondering if this is indicative an undersprung gun? I've ordered a couple of ISMI springs in weights that I'm certain of. I'll start with 15Lbs and if I still experience problems, I'll work up from there.

Not quite. Legal for USPSA. Not legal in *IPSC*. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I thought that milling the slide qualified as an "external modification". However, I see that there is an NROI ruling that explicitly permits it. http://www.uspsa.org/rules/nroi_rulings.ph...on=edit&indx=20 I guess I can't be right all the time.

So, the installation instructions say something about using glue or loctite. Then they go on to say, "after assembly, allow a minimum of 8 hours for thorough curing of the glue." Who are they kidding? I made it about 3 hours. I went with green initially because I thought I might like it better. After using them at a dim range, I might try red. They are awesome though and no less accurate than the all-black front on my Bomar. I shot a few ragged holes (at 10 yards) which wasn't so common with the all-black front that I've been using. The dot really draws my focus to the front sight, which is something that I was having a problem with.