fishnfst

I too would like some additional details. Especially if you are not trying to make a living out of your setup.. I was able to obtain a sub 2lb trigger with teh relocation of the spring while still using a 8lb new york connector.. I found it gave a much "crisper" let off than did the 3.5lb connectors that always felt mushy to me.. I'd be very interested in experimenting with other ideas..

If you want to use a g34 just go with a couple of barrel ports and a 3 port comp... If you use the 17 length slide get the 4 port comp then you can add barrel porting later if the comp is not enough... I have a BrianH 4port on my g22 length slide and it works well.....

No swap meets or guns shows out that way... Miwall is a pretty good bet cost wise... They had a special at the last gun show out here and their own brand named .40 ammo was $100 a thousand plus tax came out to like $109... You might want to call them and see if they still have some kind of special... Does anyone know if you can ship ammunition USPS? They have that one rate box that will fit 2000 .45 bullets that you can send anywhere in the lower 48 for like $9.95...

I have one of Brians comp and it's great.... Functions flawlessly and does a good job of keeping the muzzle down compared to the original one from kkm....

OK I want one... Looks kinda funny though I wonder how it is going to do without a grip:)

Just call Tom last I checked it wasn't on his website.....

Yes please do.......

Let us know how it turns out.... Pics are a must......

I was told that the two strikers are different but I've checked them everywhich way and they seem like they are the same to me.... I'm currently using a striker out of my 22 in a 17 and it works great.... To the person wanting to shoot 40's out of a 9mm frame you should really change the ejector... The 9mm ejector is bent inwards and will strike a .40 case really close to the primer... It's an easy swap and only takes a few minutes.. And the parts are too cheap not to keep a spare trigger housing and ejector around....

I don't like really long guns so a g34 with a big comp on it would be just too big for my taste... It depends on what you like. If the old school supertanker open guns were your liking you might like the g34 length pistol... If I was to do a g34 length gun it would probably be a 3 or 4 port hybrid with a 3port comp with narrower chambers to keep the oal length down... I like the shorter guns so would prefer a g17 or g22 length slide with a larger comp.....

It increases the upwards engagement pressure on the cruciform and striker engagement.. One of the main trigger lightening tricks is to redrill the trigger bar therefore decreasing the engagement force... PUtting a heavier return spring in just increases the force... I use a reduced power return spring in my 2lb trigger job.. With the stock spring it is right around 2.75lbs. With a ny1 trigger spring its over 3lbs..

My mag extensions all bottom out in my magwell....

Any increase in the weight of the trigger spring is going to increase the weight of your trigger pull.... How would increasing the pressure on the cruciform to striker engagement decrease trigger pull?? Why would you put a heavier one in unless you want a heavier trigger pull... You would want a RP one for the opposite effect.... The only thing I could think of is with the heavier trigger spring it would not allow the trigger to fully reset and preload the striker spring earlier....

Ok I am going to order 5 to try out.... The ones that you have is there a spacer in the back of them ala 9mm mags.. Or are they full length allowing them to be used with either .40sw or 10mm ammo?? I am shooting factory ammo and am worried about the shorter oal on factory ammo.... I know the metalform mags have a spacer in the back of them....

Hello everyone I read through a bunch of older threads regarding mags for a singlestack .40. I guess there are only a couple of feasible choices... Metalform makes a nice ten rounder and Tripp has some that look surprisingly like the metalform mags... I am currently using a springfield frame and capisn slide with Briley Barrel. I had been testing the pistol using chip mccormick ten round .45 powermags with the feedlips tweaked a bit and some old wilson 47d mags off of my bowling pin gun.. My question is who has the metalform mags in stock for a decent price.. I could order from metalform for 30+ a piece Tripp's mags are 39.99 and I think brownells had the metalform mags for less than 20. Any advice out there... Got the gun running aboutr 90% with the .45 mags.. She ejects and extracts like a champ now with the aftec I installed and the ed brown ejector.. I had tried to tune a .45 ejector to work but it was way too much work.. Just bought a .38super ejector and it works great.....

Good to hear that you cleared up the problem.. My open glock gets all kinds of brass shavings and pieces of primer everywhere and if any gets in between the connector or the trigger bar and the frame it will cause a similar problem to what you were experiencing.... Make sure you clean out the striker tunnel and safetly plunger as well and leave them dry for reassembly... The bottom of the slide that rides on the connector needs to be cleaned as well and lightly lubed where it contacts the connector.. I polished both mating surfaces on the connector and the slide...

I haven't done it for a couple of years after I did my two High Standards and my 40x forearm and grip are. I used a damaged cupped punch. I taped off the area I wanted to work on and just went at it.. Don't try and follow a line it will look messed up. Unless you want some funny pattern... Just work randomly with the punch Even when you do the border don't try to make a straight line....

I second the pics..... I check back on my old thread all of the time... All I get is the XD pics on your website....

Take it apart give it a good cleaning... Make sure your connector is not walking on you.. How many rounds do you have through it already? With all stock unmodified parts it should be pretty easy to diagnose the problem.... Edit post: You did say you were using all stock parts right... I thought I remember seeing a post regarding some LS products you were using in your g22?? Do you have a cut slide cover plate? You could slap it on there and then see exactly what your trigger and connector are not doing to cause the problem....

You can claim a loss on any small business 2 out of 5 years or 3 out of 5 I can't remember which...

Its not really a bearing... Thats just what they call it... When you remove the slide cover plate from the back that little nylon tapered rod with a ball on the end is the bearing... It is about a quarter inch long and it rides inside the extractor spring.....

There shouldn't be another metal piece under your locking block... Are you sure you didn't crack your locking block? The locking block should be the only metal piece in that area... Do you have any pics.... The part that goes into the frame does not contact anything but plastic.. The top of the locking block could contact the slide and will contact the underlug on the barrel.

You hit the nail on the head David.... I used to look for mainspring housing or magwells and pages of stuff would come up... Now there might be two or three matches for those parts....

I think topglock is one of their main distributors or retailers..... it used to be something like theaccessories.com but their website has been down for over a year....

You can order them straight from Grams Engineering or Brownells... Either has them... Grams springs are great. I have them in half of my mags.. The other half still have the 170mm ismi springs......