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Cylinder modifications for USPSA Revolver


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I broke out my S&W 610 to shoot revolver in USPSA competition, as I haven't shot revolver in years.

I am curious as to what cylinder modifications can be done or what should be more closely checked for smoother reloads.

I have heard, since this is a moon clip revolver that you can aggressively chamfer the cylinders....how much and at what angle?

will honing the cylinders help as we;;?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions

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For a competition revolver; an action job is always a plus and preferred of course but not necessary. An extended cylinder release is always good for positive manipulation. Cylinder work is probably most critical for problem free ejection and reloading. A good charge hole chamfer as mentioned above does wonders for smooth loading. Its important to break all the sharp edges not only on the top of cylinder body but to the entire ejector edges as well (a step overlooked by the factory). Also on some revolvers (627/929 comes to mind) the cylinder body edges directly beneath the extractor protrude slightly past the ejectors edge. That sharp shelf needs to be slightly rolled over or it will hang up rounds. Despite the previous statements against it I am a proponent of honing the cylinder chambers on stainless cylinders, not so much on Ti as the return isnt long lived.

A smooth chamber surface reduces friction and will only help extraction...done properly any smooth surfaces on a moving interaction is advantageous and cant be argued. This is especially helpful if you have chambers on the tighter end of the spec. Flexhone for firearms cylinder hones work wonderfully for this. Other than major in depth detail work that will get you up and running and competitive!  

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Action job -  yes.

Cylinder work - yes.

Extended cylinder release - maybe - it's not for everybody.  I tried one and the factory, either old style of new, works better for me.  It all depends on how you perforrm your reload.

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I bought a slightly used 610 that the cylinder and extractor had been aggressively chamfered . In just a few months of shooting local IDPA matches with the 610 the tips of the extractor started breaking off . This didn't really affect extraction because I was using moonclips but the cosmetics bothered me and had to have Eli at TK Custom to install and time a new extractor . Since then any revolver I'm doing cylinder work on I make sure to go easy on the extractor and just break the edges slightly. FWIW

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1 hour ago, RePete said:

Extended cylinder release - I tried one and the factory, either old style or new, works better for me.  It all depends on how you perform your reload.


Yep. I'm in the same boat. Borrowed one and had it on for a couple days of dry fire. It just messed with my hand memory so went back to factory. The one advantage of the extended release was it was easier to keep the muzzle pointed directly downrange. With the factory one, I tend to swing the gun to the left a bit.

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