Please Suggest A Revolver For Uspsa

[mcb]

I'm seriously thinking about getting into shooting the Revolver division next year. This year was my first and I have been shooting Limited-10 with my Springfield XD-40 Tactical. Revolver looks like a lot of fun. Since I'm already shooting and soon (as soon as the dies show up from Dillon) to be reloading 40 S&W I thought a revolver in 10mm or 40S&W would be nice but as far as I can tell the only revolver in that caliber was a S&W 610 which is no longer in production.

So what revolver would you suggest to a relatively new USPSA shooter that wants to get into revolver? I am not married to 40S&W so feel free to suggest another caliber. 45ACP might be good as a friend is reloading that cartridge. From my limited study it seem guns that the use of full moon clips is better than speed-loaders. Can you use moon clips with 357 Magnum or similar rimmed cartridge? Do you have to modify the gun?

I would love to hear your suggestion for make, model and cartridge.

Thanks

mcb

[Merlin Orr]

I did a search using " best and revolver" and came up with the link here.. With a quick look it appears that the 625-627 are pretty well liked. I am sure some of the heavyweights will add some good info.

[Airedale]

mcb,

Welcome to the world of wheelgunning.

The short answer is 625, .45ACP. Most folks shoot the 625, bigger holes to hit on the reloads, makes major very easily, "lots" of cool stuff to buy (in revo world, "lots" is relative).

There are those who shoot the 646 or 610. Mrs. Airedale shoots a moonclipped 586 (minor PF).

Generally, a trigger job, holster, belt, moonclip holder, moonclips, and a non serious aire of distain for bottom feeders and you are ready to go.

You can do a trigger job yourself or send it to someone like (forum member) Randy Lee at Apex for a pro trigger job.

Have fun,

Dave

[Carmoney]

My kid shoots a 646 in the Revolver division, with minor loads, but that's only because it still fits him better than an N-frame. You don't want a 646 for USPSA, because you're gonna want to shoot major, and they're a handful in that platform.

A 625 or 25-2 is probably the best way to go, although since you're already loading .40 and components are cheap, a 610 sure wouldn't be a bad choice for you. You could probably use the same ammo you're already shooting in your XD, just switch to federal primers so you can lighten up the action on the wheelgun. Might not reload quite as fast as a 625, but with practice it would be very close.

I hear 610s are discontinued, but there are still a few in the pipeline, plus used guns do become available.

Either way, it would be great to have you shoot wheelies with us!

Mike

[Middle Man]

Smith did discontinue the 610 in 2004. Never was sold or produced in huge numbers. If you can find a used one, they're a hoot. If not the 625 5" bbl or 4" bbl are readly available as is a Jerry Miculek 4" special with a better, interchangeable front sight set up and full underlug. There are a **few** 627 38 supers still floating around. None at wholesale level, maybe some out West at the retail level only about 500 were produced. And if you can convince 250 of your friends, Smith will do an exclusive Performance Center run of 610's or 627 38 supers (again)

[Keith]

I HAD a 610.

Had nothing but problems with it. It went back to Smith twice for "throwing by". I think that's the correct term for when the cylinder spins past a charge hole when pulling the trigger. It did it when other people tried to shoot it also, including the local Smith rep, so I wasn't short stroking it. The firing pin broke on it. The action bound up several times and wouldn't turn without 50 lbs of pressure. (yes, it was clean at the time)

I sold it to a buddy of mine, cheap, when I got it back from being fixed last time. He knew the problems I have had with it and has had no problems with it since and in fact plans on using it for deer hunting down in Iowa this year.

[Jerry V]

mcb,

Even though I use a 610, I'm with the others --- 625 you can't go wrong. The 610 is a good revolver, the only drawback I notice is the unfluted cylinder & smaller chambers (.40 vs .45) that make for a heavy cylinder that you feel when shooting fast.

I intended to get a 625, but a very good friend gave me his barely used 610, so I've stayed with it. I have no doubt your get some very good advice from the others, so you've come to the right place

--- Jerry

[R112mercer]

Everybody else has already said this, but the 625 or 25 is the answer for USPSA Revolver Division. .357's can be moonclipped by a competent gunsmith, but Major in .357 can be harder to shoot, and the reload is tougher. A 625 has big holes and short, fat bullets. Plus it's easy to get truly round nose, FMJ-style bullets, which guide themselves in the charge holes easier. As to other gear, you'll need a good holster, belt, moonclip carriers, a de-mooning tool (easy to make yourself), and moonclips. For the holster I would recommend either Safariland's 002 Cup Challenge holster or Universal's Extreme. Both are good holsters and fit a bunch of different revolvers. Safariland's buckleless belt system works just as well in Revolver as it does for autos. California Competition offers a variety of moonclip holder (they're in Blue Press). A de-mooner is just a piece of pipe of slightly larger diameter than the rounds you're removing with a slight ledge on one end. You put the round in the pipe, give it a twist, and the round is stripped off. I would recommend sending your gun out to Randy Lee for a trigger job, he is a forum member and does great work. When you reload make sure to use only FEDERAL PRIMERS, there is no other brand in Revolver Division, they are much softer and easier to light.

[mcb]

Wow, lots of great responses. Thanks a bunch guys! It looks like I will be looking for a S&W 625 or 25 and keep an eye on the used gun racks for a 610.

It a shame the Taurus Tracker in 45ACP is only a five shot. I would think that long full lugged barrel would be pretty good for competition.

Again thank for all the good advice. I will certainly let you guys know when I get the gun and gear together.

Thanks

mcb

[Randy Lee]

Ditto on the 625 recommendation. For Revolver Division in USPSA the 5" full underlug 625 works well. Until Smith listens to Jerry M. and Patrick Sweeney about a 6" or 6.5" barrel, the 5" is a good balance between recoil dampening and pointability.

I have a 646 in the shop and had to test fire it with 170pf ammo yesterday. The Titanium cylinder and skinny barrel profile on this L-frame make it point quickly, however the recoil is noticeably sharper. I found the follow-up shots were a bit more challenging because of the increased muzzle flip.

Good luck in your decision making process!

Randy

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Although a 625 is easier to find, a 25-2 is a great revolver to have.

If you were shooting at my local matches, I would suggest a Ruger Security six with HKS loaders. That would probably be the only way I could beat you

Remember,

ROUND GUNS RULE and BOTTOM FEEDERS DROOL

Regards,

[underlug]

All good information above. I would go to a match and ask a revolver shooter to try out his gun to see what you like. It is all very personal. I believe in liking what you shoot even though the 25s have competitive advantages and shoot them myself. The revolver shooters will be the ones off to the side at the match giggling fiendishly and pointing their fingers. We are hard to miss.

[hopalong]

MCB,

I started shooting Revos with a 4 inch 610... fine gun....I personally wanted a longer barrel, did not have anything against the caliber .40 S&W loaded to Major PF.

Ran up on a good deal on a 625 so I got it, Like it as good as 610, reloads are just as good on 610 but more consistant with 625.

Traded the 610 the other day for a third 625

I also have a 646 that I shoot with Minor loads, nice gun really "pointy" and since it is an L frame fits my smaller hands better.....I shoot this gun in ICORE when I get to shoot some (usually the Postal match as there is no other ICORE around my neck of the woods).

If you find a 627 you would have to reload after every 6th shot any way so for USPSA Revolver division they are pretty much out.

With Practice a 610 can and will be as good a gun as the 625 or 25 they are just harder to find (I like the longer barrels).

Other equipment..... The safariland Holster is good, I use a CR speed, I see nothing wrong with some of the Holsters used in IDPA, with practice they are no different than a "Speed rig".

Moonclips....there is a whole thread about them, I won't stir that pot

Moonclip holders....Calfornia Comp is the most popular and that is what I have, but I am thinking about the Blade-tech double moon holders to try.

Revo division is most likely the cheapest division to get into....4-500 bucks for a good used 625. Holsters from 30 to 200. moonclip holders 10 to 30 bucks.

AMMO !!!!!! That is the Killer, and cost of gas to go on trips

But sure is cheaper than Golf, Fishing and a few other "Hobbies" I've had

Hopalong

Glad to have you with us (we're a little crazy but it keeps the IDIOTS away )

[cliffwalsh]

"I personally wanted a longer barrel"

don't we all Sam

[Waltermitty]

It's pretty well an open and shut case, get a 625 in .45 ACP.

A fat bullet can help offset a short barrel......

[R112mercer]

One more thing I forgot. Not to 610 bash or anything, I've never used one in a match, but the unfluted cylinder can sometimes be a problem. I think somebody on here pointed out that it's hard to get that extra weight spinning. I remember reading somewhere that Smith used an unfluted cylinder to "maintain momentum under rapid firing." I find this hard to believe, as the cylinder has to come to a complete stop every sixth of a revolution to do it's thing. In addition to being unfluted, the cylinder has smaller holes drilled in it, which means even more weight for your trigger finger to have to start moving. I have dry fired a couple of 610's and always noticed that heavy cylinder, no matter how good the trigger job was. The smaller holes drilled has another effect: the holes are farther apart from each other, meaning there is a thicker cylinder wall for the nose of the round to "catch" on when you throw the moon at it. This is magnified with the flat point style bullets typically offered for the 10mm/.40 cal. You be suprised how easy it is to line up six flat noses with six cylinder walls when you throw a moonclip at a cylinder while running between shooting positions. It starts to become real easy to do... Like I said, not trying to 610 bash, there are alot of guys here who have used them quite succesfully here.

[spook]

One more thing I forgot.  Not to 610 bash or anything, I've never used one in a match, but the unfluted cylinder can sometimes be a problem.  I think somebody on here pointed out that it's hard to get that extra weight spinning.  I remember reading somewhere that Smith used an unfluted cylinder to "maintain momentum under rapid firing."  I find this hard to believe, as the cylinder has to come to a complete stop every sixth of a revolution to do it's thing.  In addition to being unfluted, the cylinder has smaller holes drilled in it, which means even more weight for your trigger finger to have to start moving.  I have dry fired a couple of 610's and always noticed that heavy cylinder, no matter how good the trigger job was.  The smaller holes drilled has another effect: the holes are farther apart from each other, meaning there is a thicker cylinder wall for the nose of the round to "catch" on when you throw the moon at it.  This is magnified with the flat point style bullets typically offered for the 10mm/.40 cal.  You be suprised how easy it is to line up six flat noses with six cylinder walls when you throw a moonclip at a cylinder while running between shooting positions.  It starts to become real easy to do...  Like I said, not trying to 610 bash, there are alot of guys here who have used them quite succesfully here.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think it's a very valid point. I believe the unfluted cylinder will also put more stress on the cylinder stop with dry fire. 625 in 5" is a safe choice. Can't go wrong with what Jerry M. shoots I'd say

[R112mercer]

Spook;

Especially considering how much we dry fire and how weak some of the MIM cylinder stops are. I've already worn one out and I've heard this complaint from many others.

[Randy Lee]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to convince the Performance Center to provide a 625 with a Titanium cylinder for us competition types. The cylinder stop notches last a bit longer due to the surface hardness. The lighter mass also means lighter and smoother trigger pulls.

I'm also recommending that they deepen the entry cuts leading into the stop notches. This should reduce/eliminate the problem of cylinder run-by.

What do you think?

Randy

[Airedale]

Randy,

That is a great idea. I wonder if, assuming they agree, they would retrofit for all of us with 625 "collections".

While you are convincing S&W, get that 6 1/2" 625 made.

Dave

[Genghis]

"and a non serious aire of distain for bottom feeders and you are ready to go."

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sounds like my Airedale's attitude toward the other dogs.

[Airedale]

Sounds like my Airedale's attitude toward the other dogs.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Genghis,

Another Airedale man-excellent!

Dave

[Carmoney]

Robo's got a 625 and accessories up for trade on the Classifieds sub-forum right now......

[R112mercer]

Randy;

If your trigger jobs get any lighter the guns will go full auto <G>! Interesting idea, might help with Pat and Jerry's Super IPSC Revolver they're trying to get Smith to make.

[mcb]

Robo's got a 625 and accessories up for trade on the Classifieds sub-forum right now......

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Carmoney, I PM'ed him earlier.

mcb