Clay1 Posted July 8, 2005 Author Share Posted July 8, 2005 Bluntly, I couldn't tell the difference between the factory 3.5 connector and the Wolf Ultimate Overtravel stop as far as movement past trigger break - overtravel. I thought that I might try one of the Ghost Rockets, but if you have already tried one - I might as well stay with 100% Glock parts. Thanks for the info and the help again. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Something else to consider: Whenever changing connectors, use another connector to start or push the installed one out of the trigger mechanism housing. Never pull it out in a way that flexes the connector in either direction..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 I might as well stay with 100% Glock parts. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> An outstanding plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Something else to consider: Whenever changing connectors, use another connector to start or push the installed one out of the trigger mechanism housing. Never pull it out in a way that flexes the connector in either direction..... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> OK y'all... A little advice from the guy that cleans his Glock maybe once a year, maybe. I keep hearing about people prying their connectors out, and dear God, I've actually seen $20 tools designed for this nefarious purpose. PLEASE STOP PRYING OUT YOUR CONNECTORS. IT IS NOT NECESSARY. If you look at opposite side of the ejector housing where the tab on the connector slides through, you will see a round hole in the middle of the rectangular slot. You will also note that your Glock armorer's tool fits into that hole - perfectly - so that you can gently push your connector out of the ejector housing. No muss, no fuss, no extra tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe D Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 The stock Glock 3.5 is hard to beat. The only other one that is better is the old Glock Works connector. I do not use the Ghost connectors. Too many quality issues. I would use a Scherer before a Ghost. I have never seen the need for a trigger stop in a Glock. Glock has at least three sub-contractors for trigger bars. Not only are the finishes different, so are the nose profiles. Going from a "short nose" to a "long nose" will decrease your trigger pull by as much as 1 lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 I'm not crazy about Ghost Rocket connectors either. If all the connector did was guide the nose of the trigger bar, the design would be okay. BUT: the Glock connector also has to click in & out of position and it's is driven by a wedge in the slide as the gun cycles. The Ghost Rocket causes all kinds of binding in this second function and all the cures for this are half-measures that don't quite bring your gun back to 100% normal function. On the plus side, mine was polished nicely so I just cut off the trigger-stop tab with a Dremel & kept the part as an emergency spare. As for your gun's problem - I'd still carefully check that none of your frame pins is broken or cracked and that none of your frame rails is broken or cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockclimbg Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 Bluntly, I couldn't tell the difference between the factory 3.5 connector and the Wolf Ultimate Overtravel stop as far as movement past trigger break - overtravel. I thought that I might try one of the Ghost Rockets, but if you have already tried one - I might as well stay with 100% Glock parts. Thanks for the info and the help again. Rick <{POST_SNAPBACK}> On a side note, I have never used the Wolf Ultimate Over-travel stop but I made something that I suspect is similar with a tiny set screw. I could definitely tell a difference in over-travel but took the thing out because I decided I liked the over-travel in the Glock trigger.....……anyhow…..... If you don't have the orange armorers slide cover plate to trip the trigger bar when adjusting the over-travel, you may not have adjusted as much over-travel out of the trigger as possible. I only mention it because you said you had a hard time taking the slide off when the trigger wouldn't reset. I'm impatient and just cut a stock slide cover plate I had laying around so that I could trip the trigger bar but just about anyone sells the orange plate. I’m just mentioning it because if you can get a lot of over-travel out of the trigger if that is your preference. Rockclimbg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sc0 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 Older thread but still pertinent: After firing a few hundred rounds on two different range sessions a month apart my Glock's wouldn't dry fire no more without excessive force on te triggers. G34 and a G35 with Ghost Rocket connectors. The first time I had this problem it was traced back to powder residue on the surface of the connector and trigger stop, that was cured with a couple strokes of a file. The recent problem seemed to be related to something inside the slide. I took apart the grip frame and cleaned everything and the problem still occurred, then I cleaned the slide assembly and it dissapeared. On the other Glock I did the slide first and everything was back to normal. I didn't notice any type of excessive fouling or brass/aluminum shavings from the ammunition to cause problems. If they are clean they work flawlessly, but they don't work well when dirty? I REALLY like my Glocks and this is a concern since I do CCW with these, so this was an eye opener. I'll remove a bit more material from the Ghost Rocket trigger stops to see if the problem continues, if it does i'll remove the stop tabs or just use them for competition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 Older thread but still pertinent:After firing a few hundred rounds on two different range sessions a month apart my Glock's wouldn't dry fire no more without excessive force on te triggers. G34 and a G35 with Ghost Rocket connectors. The first time I had this problem it was traced back to powder residue on the surface of the connector and trigger stop, that was cured with a couple strokes of a file. The recent problem seemed to be related to something inside the slide. I took apart the grip frame and cleaned everything and the problem still occurred, then I cleaned the slide assembly and it dissapeared. On the other Glock I did the slide first and everything was back to normal. I didn't notice any type of excessive fouling or brass/aluminum shavings from the ammunition to cause problems. If they are clean they work flawlessly, but they don't work well when dirty? I REALLY like my Glocks and this is a concern since I do CCW with these, so this was an eye opener. I'll remove a bit more material from the Ghost Rocket trigger stops to see if the problem continues, if it does i'll remove the stop tabs or just use them for competition. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I played around with a couple of Ghost Rockets for just long enough to KNOW that I don't trust them for competition. Get them out of your carry guns ---- today...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 Nik, I couldn't agree more. Sco, not just today, but right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 I have the Ghost Rocket in my competition guns. Never had a problem with any of them. I keep my carry gun stock - in case of legalities - you never know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost21 Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 (edited) Damn strangest thing that I have ever seen. I put the Ultimate Overtravel Stop back in the gun and fired 50 times without a mag in the mag well and no issues, then inserted a mag and fired 50 more times. 100 shots without an issue. I don't get it, the thing is just a stock ejector housing with a set screw. Any ideas for me. I might swap it out with the original again and see if I can recreate the problem. Rick <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Clay,I have had the same problem with the same make trigger group,Finnally took mine out and went back to the stock trigger group.As far as I could tell the screw does move a little under firing the gun,I worked with mine a full day went from striker not dropping to firing full auto ,useing it in my G34. After 10 rounds of full auto with the wolF trigger group I said this is not going to happen and went bact with stock trigger group.END OF PROBLEM !!! Edited October 17, 2005 by ghost21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay1 Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 I was searching for answers and changed too many things at once. Correlation is not causation. After more experimenting I found the real issue was how I removed the stock striker. I bent it on removal and that's what caused my issues. Since I fixed that I have not had any problems. I was able to duplicate the problem with the overtravel stop removed. Even though I isolated the problem, I have not reinstalled the overtravel. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Kline Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Joe D, By nose, do you mean the part that contacts the striker and releases it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Joe D,By nose, do you mean the part that contacts the striker and releases it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Kevin, No --- the nose, if you're looking at the gun from the mag release side with the muzzle pointing to the left, is the most right protruding tip of the trigger bar. The nose slides past the connector angles, which force it to drop down, so the cruciform can release the striker...... What Joe is saying is that if the curve there is longer and more gradual, you'll get a lighter pull..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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