Rockclimbg

How do you guys/gals handle the lack of consistent pull with the Glock trigger? The breaking point of the trigger and the weight of the pull seem to vary from Glock to Glock and it makes switching between guns a little less seamless than I'd like. Granted, the difference is sometimes small but it throws off my timing. Has anyone else noticed this? I've noticed a pretty big difference in tolerances with Glock small parts and a little stoning and polishing goes a long way towards making the trigger feel nice, they just don't all feel the same. Any suggestions for eliminating variables? Are some connectors more dimensionally consistent than others? Is there an specific work you do to multiple Glock triggers to get them feeling the same from Glock to Glock? Thanks for any replies Rockclimbg P.S.: Purchasing an aftermarket trigger is not an option at this point.

The targets are usually pretty close in IDPA so I'm not sure how much the extra sight radius on the G34 helps. Also, depending on how your built, you may actually do better with the G17 on the draw as it is a shorter gun. You can find tons of used G17's for less than $400 that are like new. Add a great pair of sights, a 3.5lb connector and a few extra mags and your have everything you need. Just my .02 cents.

Can you use G17 mags in a G19 for reloads in IDPA? I would like to start with a stock G19 mag in the gun but use the longer mags for reloads for no other reason than that's the way I normally carry it. I tried to find it in the rule book but can't find anything other than a restriction on the weight of the mags and the need to fit in the box. Thanks for any replies.

Just wanted to mention that an extra "slide stop spring" might be worth keeping around as I had one break on my G19 this year. I've broken a trigger spring at a local match, I was able to finish the match, I just had to hold down the trigger and really follow through with each shot....Of coarse, now I always just carry a few spare parts.

just wanted to give another +1 to i-shot. Great customer service.

I'm going to try and use my G19 this year for Production and SSP. I already have the basics set up like I want them: sights (heinie), trigger (stock). But was wondering how you guys and girls were springing the gun and how you were loading your ammo. I'm trying to save myself the time and money of trial an error so any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks Rockclimbg

Does that mean that you can use a 9mm barrel in a Glock 35? I know it isn't the same as a .40 and 10mm but just curious? Thanks Rockclimbg.

I was under the impression that it had to be the same caliber. Does anyone have any more info on this? The G20 would be a great Production gun in .40.

Another option is to change your carry gun to the 35. Do you really want to be less fast and accurate if you your life depends on it? I don't mean to start a "thing" but that is the question I asked myself. Ken Reed That's really the bottom line. I guess the thing to take from IDPA or IPSC is to see what you can do best with under a little "stress" of the clock and tailor your carry gear towards that. The funny thing is that the difference is really minor. Maybe .05-.15 in the splits depending on the distance of the shot. Although it is a lot more effort to hit longer range targets with the G19, even that difference is probably more of a training issue. In fact, the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking that the biggest problem I've run into is the knocking down of steel. It seems to take forever and day for steel to fall when shooting minor. Again, this is only really an issue if the steel is obstructing other targets, which seemed to be a popular theme last season. As for "gadgeting" my way to master....that really isn't the question, I can qualify "master" in IDPA and mid to upper B class in IPSC. (note:The fact that I'm shooting B class in IPSC and Master class in IDPA is a sign that IDPA needs to rethink how they classify because I'm certainly not a "Master" but that's another issue.) The real issue is just finding the balance between what is reasonable to carry without being un-competitive. Thanks for all the great replies.

Anyone struggle with wanting to shoot your carry gun but also wanting to be as competitive as possible? Let me address this more specifically before anyone chimes in and says, "just practice more with your carry gun and it won't matter." I've committed a great deal of time and effort to getting better with a Glock 19 and I'm shooting it better than I ever have, however, after not picking up my G35 in 5 months, I'm able to out shoot the G19 easily. The only additions to the G35 at this point are Dawson Fiber optic Front sight,Heinie rear and a metal guide rod. More than anything, the long sight radius and the fiber optic make a big difference for me. The heavier bullets (180's vs 147's), even when shooting minor .40 also seem to knock down steel a lot faster which is handy when steel is obstructing additional steel targets in a match. So I'm torn between wanting to perform as good as possible in a match and wanting to be more proficient with my carry gear. Is this an issue for anyone else? If so, how did you resolve it? Thanks for any replies, Rockclimbg. P.S.: MODS, sorry if this is posted in the wrong forum, wasn't sure where it would fit.

I've been reloading a variety of pistol bullets (9, 40 and 45) for about 2 years and would like to start reloading for my .223 AR-15. I'm using a Dillon 650. What do I need to know about making accurate rifle bullets? Are there extra steps involved? Case trimming? Case lubing? Decrimping? What are some recommended resources (books, links, post, etc (preferable with pics)) that I could use? I have no knowledge on the subject so any help is appreciated. Thanks Rockclimbg

Problem Solved... Just a little update, I switched to Unique Powder and the groups have tightened up a lot. Thanks for all the help/advice. Rockclimbg

I knocked about .5 sec off my reload by moving my left hand to the mag the instant the shot was called. It's a little change of focus that seemed to help my reloads. YMMV. Rockclimbg

I've been reloading .45 and .40 on my 650 with no problems, but I can't seem to nail down a good load for 9mm. I am using Zero FMJ 147gr bullets over 3.2 Gr of tightgroup with an OAL of 1.135 FMJ. Velocity is consistently around 910fps but accuracy is all over the place. I have a KKM barrel in one glock that shoots great and a friends G19 also shoots this load great, but other guns are throwing huge groups (6''+@15 yards) but no keyholing, I'm also not getting any pressure signs on the brass. My wifes Sig239 and my glock 34 are all over the place. I'm using very little crimp now and have done a little experimenting with OAL but had a hard time running anything longer than what I am now because of the chamber length of a Jarvis barrel I have. I would be less confused if all the guns shot like crap but the inconsistency is throwing me. Anyone have any advice? Thanks in advanced. Rockclimbg

I'm not sure what "anchors better" means but.....my draw from concealment, a-la, IDPA is a little faster with my G22 than G35. In fact, I've gone back to the G22 as an IDPA gun because of the faster draw and the fact that the stages are usually so short and close. In the waist band carry with a fullsize can be even more of a bear to get out from concealment if your short in the torso. YMMV Rockclimbg

After lightening up the crimp on the Rainier 147's JHP and trying Zero 147 FMJ (both with 3.4 gr. tight group powder), I still am having no luck with the G34. Off hand at 25 yards was around a 12 inch group, same distance and bullet out of a G19 off hand was around a 3 inch group. I'm not sure why this thing is shooting so poorly with the 147's. I had some WWB from walmart on hand and was getting 3 inch groups offhand with the G34 using it, so I'm starting to think it's just the barrel/bullet combo. Joe, what kind of OAL are you using with your 147 RN combo and what kind of velocity are you seeing with 3.0 gr TG? Thanks. Rockclimbg

I'm using 3.5 gr titegroup. As far as the crimp goes, that might be it. I shot them through some paper to see if they were any keyholes, but everything looked right. I'll try backing off the crimp and see what happens Also, Would switching barrels help at all? KKM perhaps? Thanks for the advice! Rockclimbg P.S.: I shot some out of a buddies G19 and they grouped better, not great but far better than out of the G34. Could that have something to do with velocity and the jacket breaking apart? If so, that may further point to a crimp problem.

I just started reloading 9mm. I'd like to stick with a 147gr bullet, zero's are coming in a week, so I bought some rainier 147gr JHP bullets so I'd have something to do until the zero's arrive. Everything feeds and cycles fine in my Glocks but I'm all over the place with the G34. It has never shot that great to begin with (even with wally world WWB) but now it is all over the place. At 50yds, I landed 1 out of 10 shots on a IPSC target. Usually I'm grouping around 10'' offhand with my G35. I'm just curious if anyone else has had problems with 147 gr bullets in the G34? I have a lot of rounds through it, so maybe it's time for a new barrel, or maybe it's just a problem with Rainier bullets (I've never used them before.) Anyone else experience anything like this? Suggestions? Thanks. Rockclimbg.

If you looking to spend some cash, I'd look into a nice Dillon reloader. You could load your .40's light for low recoil that feels as soft, if not softer than 9mm. If the trigger is all you want, just pick up a Glock 3.5 connector. Rockclimbg

Well said Flyin40 That's a great way of putting it in my opinion. It's not shooting without calling the shots. I'm just starting to get into this kind of shooting and I'm seeing some big improvement in my transitions although I still have a ways to go. Rockclimbg

I have been watching Matt B's AR-15 video lately and noticed that he talked briefly about bringing the gun in from the left hand side of the target to deal with offhand hold/wobble at long range. I've heard this referred to as "ambushing" the target and was told that it was wrong and instead, when shooting long range, you should hold the pistol/rifle on the target and break the shot, granted this was advice I receive years ago and not from an IPSC/experienced shooter. Anyway, when shooting some long distance (50 yards) today, I tried bringing the gun in from the left and breaking the shot as per the AR-15 video. My accuracy wasn't any better than a GOOD day of just holding still and accepting my wobble but it felt more consistent and more repeatable "cold." It felt like I was able to better focus on keeping the sights aligned perfectly when bringing the gun in from the left, almost like I had a little more control over my wobble. Is this a valid technique for pistol shooting or does it only apply to rifles? Or did I just totally misunderstand the technique in the video? The big questions is: Is this a technique worth playing with and learning or would that time be better spent accepting the wobble and holding as still as possible? Shooting a stock Glock 35, my groups were around 10'' off hand at 50 yards, which is not stellar by some of your standards but is pretty good for where I am in my shooting now. Thanks for any advice Rockclimbg

First attempt at posting photos...sorry if these don't turn out good.. I have NOT finished the grip reduction, I still need to touch up the finish and decided on how I'm going to blend it. That is going to be a winter time project as I don't have time to mess with this during the summer....overall, I like it. It's a lot of fun and I learned a ton doing it, not the prettiest thing...but...it works well and was fun, I made the magwell extra big and it is pretty tough to miss a mag change now. My G35 is pictured for size comparison, they feel very similar. Rockclimbg

For what it's worth, I've stopped using the auto reset kit for the summer months as I found it was messing up my live fire trigger control. My results have gotten a little better since going back to just using the stock trigger for dry fire practice. Although I will dust it off for the winter months as it helps with the boredom factor. Rockclimbg

On a side note, I have never used the Wolf Ultimate Over-travel stop but I made something that I suspect is similar with a tiny set screw. I could definitely tell a difference in over-travel but took the thing out because I decided I liked the over-travel in the Glock trigger.....……anyhow…..... If you don't have the orange armorers slide cover plate to trip the trigger bar when adjusting the over-travel, you may not have adjusted as much over-travel out of the trigger as possible. I only mention it because you said you had a hard time taking the slide off when the trigger wouldn't reset. I'm impatient and just cut a stock slide cover plate I had laying around so that I could trip the trigger bar but just about anyone sells the orange plate. I’m just mentioning it because if you can get a lot of over-travel out of the trigger if that is your preference. Rockclimbg

I've had better luck with stock Glock parts but everyone's opinion will vary. I wasn't crazy about the ghost connector and if you already have an over-travel stop in your trigger housing, I fail to see how the Ghost connector will do anything for you. On a side note, the last bunch of parts I ordered was from Lone Wolf Dist. and the finish was different from what I've seen in the past. So far it hasn't caused any problems but some of the trigger bar angles needed tweaking and smoothed out. I don't know if that's just the way Glock parts are now or if I was shipped something other than factory Glock. Either way, next time I need something it will be from Glockmeister or CGR. Rockclimbg