Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Gun Finish Question


Recommended Posts

I'm doing a partial rebuild on a friend of a freind's gun and I'm having a little trouble with the finish. Because of the grinding I had to do for the fit and finish on the thumb and grip safety I decided to refinish the whole gun including exterior parts. I lightly beed blasted all of the exterior surfaces and submerged them in cold blue (Birchwood Casey Perma Blue) followed with an aggressive wiping down of all of the parts (inside and out) with a rag and oil after they were dry, and then later tried cleaning all of the parts with Hopps Gun Solvent and a toothbrush, how ever I'm still experiencing the same problem, which is, when I lube the gun (heavily USPSA style) I'm getting this black mess all over my hands due to the finish (it's mostly coming from the slide to frame and the safety's because that's the common points the hands touch). And the reason I didn't do the steel wool in the instructions is I'm trying for a matte finish which is what the gun had on it to begin with. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. THANK YOU.

And could someone please give me a hand with getting a picture posted, either by thread response or PM.

Thank You

THC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cold blue will keep coming off. It also has a peculiar smell. One of our standard tests when buying used guns was to wipe it with a oily cloth and sniff it. The oil would wipe loose cold blue, and we could see it on the cloth or smell it. You'd be surprised how many "pristine" or "98+%" guns dropped in grade once you locate the cold blue touch-ups.

Which is all it is meant to do, touch up. Not to refinish half a gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Erik,

My experience with powder coat is that it almost always comes out glossier than you'd want on sights. I think my solution is going to be to get a hot plate and some real bluing solution and keep my sights black that way.

Right now I'm using cold blue to keep my (actually your old) sights black, but there's some stuff it won't even touch. I've got a set of Trijicons that it won't work at all on.

The Birchwood Casey flat black pen is an OK solution, but it gets glossy after it sits in your range bag for a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the thread drift but after reading this I wonder.

How hard is it to reblue a gun? I mean can you get "hot blue" and "do it yourself"?

I have a Mag well which I filed to match the frame and since it is going to get all worn from mag changes I was thinking of just letting it go. However, if I can blue it without too much trouble it would look so much better.

Ira

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW - I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue on mine - temporary, of course, as the gun's going to get chromed eventually. It has a nice color, and actually seems to last almost as well as the hot blue that came on my Trojan (which isn't holding up all that well...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the thread drift but after reading this I wonder.

How hard is it to reblue a gun?  I mean can you get "hot blue" and "do it yourself"?

Brownells will sell you everything you need. But.. the setup is not simple or cheap to do just a few parts.

$699 starter kit: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...P%22+BLUING+KIT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If you want any cold blue to "stick" you have to heat up the metal first, ala the way Brownells instructs with their Dicropan "Hot Wter Bluing" method. For the Dicropan way you use a heated tank of water after cleaning to get the metal up to 180-200 degrees before you slop on or immerse metal in the cold blue. And yes, you have to "card the metal with steel wool after to take off that black residue you're now getting all over your hands. For the Oxypho Blue you can heat up cleaned parts with a blow dryer, just be careful of getting skin oil on any of the metal or you'll get spotty results. And don't expect the "black" finish that hot salt bluing gives you. It will actually be a a "blue" type of sheen, but if you're doing the whole gun and everything matches, you should be all right. The other thing to watch out for is different alloy compositions that "take" the cold bluing reaction differently and so come out a different shade.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...