pdxrealtor Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Hi - first post here. I've been lurking a bit and have found some really useful information. I'm looking to cut my L-frame MIM hammer. I currently have some of the black Dremel cut off wheels which worked OK when I did my last hammer spur (simple cutting down the spur size, didn't completely bob it.). However on my current project I am going to get a bit more intricate. At the least the wheels I have are too large to cut a couple places I'm looking at cutting. I read of guys using diamond bits. There are also Dremel diamond wheels. Can anyone share what would be the best approach here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurusty Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Any of the carbide bits will work, I have also used the green stone bit with good success. It's easier to use a bench grinder out belt sander if you have one, just watch your heat. Don't take too much off at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 For an aggressive chop like this, any cutoff wheel, then just a bench grinder and some way to polish out the tool marks. No Dremel required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 If your looking to take out some weight, but leave the visible part more intact, carbide bits work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 (edited) Thanks. Not sure why I wasn't seeing those, but all I kept coming up with were diamond bits and others, but no carbides. Operator error I'm sure. I'll be doing something similar to the last picture in post #4. However, I want a stubby left on the back for a spur. I like single action sometimes. Edited July 28, 2016 by pdxrealtor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 I used the cutoff wheel to take off the spur and then the orange grinding wheel to smooth it flush to the frame. I will eventually use it as an IDPA gun so it didn't get the full chop. That method worked well for me, if you have the rubberized abrasives they seem to work best at polishing and smoothing surfaces when you have the dimensions you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 If you want to thumb-cock the gun sometimes, I would strongly recommend leaving the hammer in factory configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete627 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 (edited) Buy an Apex for $150 or so ... (checking again) ... have seen them for $138-142 ish. When you are tired of it I will buy it from you for $100 ... and/or should be no problem moving it. That is likely less than it would cost to buy a new factory hammer to cut and leave the original un-molested (for single action or whatever). edit: but ... really like your bobbed arrangement photos ... (post #14) ... (did not realize you wanted to keep SA at the same time ... my bad ...). Edited July 29, 2016 by pete627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 If you want to thumb-cock the gun sometimes, I would strongly recommend leaving the hammer in factory configuration. Why do you suggest that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Cutting the weight of the hammer ("Carmonizing" it) will only make a small, incremental difference in performance for DA shooting. If you want to thumb-cock it, you might as well leave the hammer alone. Safer and easier. When you reach the point where you no longer have any need or desire for SA mode, then cut it all the way! That's my advice, anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 I want the lighter da pull, with the ability to shoot it sa sometimes. I'm already maxed with clipped 11lb rebound Springs, light fp Springs, action work etc..... Getting the hammer to drop faster is the only thin left for me to get a light da pull via the main spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
357454 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I purchased a small diameter diamond cut off wheel from Harbor freight, there were three in a package for less than 15.00, they work great and create less heat then a standard cut off wheel. If you want the option to cock the hammer you could thin and shorten the hammer spur, it will reduce the weight a bit for quicker hammer fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I always use genuine dremel fiber cut-off wheel, sanding drum, and cratex polishing tip, in that order, when chopping hammers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 I purchased a small diameter diamond cut off wheel from Harbor freight, there were three in a package for less than 15.00, they work great and create less heat then a standard cut off wheel. If you want the option to cock the hammer you could thin and shorten the hammer spur, it will reduce the weight a bit for quicker hammer fall. I did just that on my 386 nightguard. I always use genuine dremel fiber cut-off wheel, sanding drum, and cratex polishing tip, in that order, when chopping hammers. The fiber cut off wheel is what I used on my 386 NG pictured. Followed by a high grit sanding belt on a rubber drum, then a 3 stage past polish. I'm happy with the way the fiber wheel cuts, but I haven't seen any that are small enough to cut some of the areas I want to cut on the hammer. I'd really like to use my drill press and drill out the hammer, then fine tune it a bit from that point, but I was told I'd need carbide tooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 (edited) Carbide drills don't cost that much. The best ones for this job are the ones with 2 straight flutes. You can order them from any industrial supply house that carries machine shop tooling. They come in a wide variety of sizes. They can be used on a regular drill press. Two places that have them are - mscdirect.com and www.mcmaster.com. A 1/4" one is $30 - $35. Edited July 29, 2016 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMM50 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 One caution is that carbide bits will snap with too much pressure. But then so will the Dremel wheels. I've broken lots of both. Wear eye protection!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 This is what a couple years of Carmonizing hammers leaves behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Carbide drills don't cost that much. The best ones for this job are the ones with 2 straight flutes. You can order them from any industrial supply house that carries machine shop tooling. They come in a wide variety of sizes. They can be used on a regular drill press. Two places that have them are - mscdirect.com and www.mcmaster.com. A 1/4" one is $30 - $35. Thanks I will take a look. If anything I need a good excuse to go pick up my drill press and set it up where I live. This is what a couple years of Carmonizing hammers leaves behind. Funny..... there's gotta be something creative you can do with those!?!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 Keychain fobs? Bottle openers? Something cool could be made from them, I'm sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Both great ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan454 Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 I vote bottle openers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Is any MIM hammer capable of being fitted to any MIM revolver? I'm looking at picking a couple up and they list several different MIM styles under the 586, which is the gun I'm playing with. Here's an example... https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1300190.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 All the machined and MIM hammers are interchangeable within their frame size. All the machined and MIM triggers are interchangeable with any K, L, or N frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdxrealtor Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misterbrooks Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Have done a few and found using a Bench Grinder in conjunction with constant dipping in cool water. Worked best to remove the bulk of the unwanted material. Not keeping it cool while cutting (Dremel or not) will destroy the Hammer's darkness / metallurgical properties. After grinding I would use a good quality Fine Cut Cross File followed by final finishing with a fine grade Emory Paper / polish. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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