First batch in Dillon 650

[packers]

Yahoo! I just finished setting up my Dillon 650 yesterday. Its my first press and experience reloading. I thought I'd share a little about the experience. I didn't find it difficult at all to understand or setup. Calibrating the dies were quite simple. I spent the most time with the powder measure, measuring 5 charges, adjusting, and repeating the cycle. The only part I seem to have messed up is that the powder measure was not quite aligned with the failsafe rod. The rod was torqued slightly, causing some problems after about 100 rounds.

For station 3, I used the RCBS lockout die. Worked perfectly....and very glad I took the time to set it up on this first batch.

For the first batch, I used Bayou 147gr bullets, Winchester primers, & WST powder. I bought the powder and primers locally. I could only get 300 primers, so that's what I went with. The formula was from here on the forums.

OAL: 1.135"

WST: 3.5gr

I noticed that the Bayou bullet is probably ever so slightly larger than it should be. It deforms the case just a tiny bit...almost immeasurable, but visible:

I did have a little surprise in the box of bullets...this looks like a 124gr bullet that was thrown in just to make sure I'm paying attention!

My mis-aligned failsafe rod started acting up after 100 rounds or so. It stopped resetting the powder measure on the up stroke, which caused some squib loads. Fortunately, the lockout die noticed before I did. I just pulled the rounds from the press (pretty easy) and set them aside since I wasn't sure what was going on at the time. After occurring a few times I finally realized the problem.

Unfortunately, I ended up with a few rounds where the primer was not fully seated. I'm assuming this occurred after pulling the squib loads and me forgetting a full up stroke. I thought I was paying attention to that, but the evidence begs to differ.

My final observation was being surprised by the metal shavings in the finished basket. A few of these shavings look like coating being shaved from the bullet, but most of those shaving are metal from the cases.

Overall a pretty positive experience. I'm looking forward to the next round. I did shoot about 20 of these in my Glock 26 and Glock 17. I like this load combination...very accurate in my guns.

[scottlep]

The hourglass shape of the rounds is totally normal. You need more flare on the case if the coating is being shaved when seating the bullets.

[adamge]

I've never seen shavings like that before. The only thing I've seen close to that is brass rim shavings when a case gets stuck in my 223 resizing die (not enough lube) and the rim shears off. I agree with scott in suspecting that they are bullet shavings from seating the bullets without enough flare in the case mouth. You would adjust the power die downwards to force more flare at the top of the power feed action.

Hourglass shape is normal.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Welcome to the Forum and to reloading on your new toy

Have you tried to load any of these cartridges into your chamber, yet?

Looks to me like it just might not be "crimped" enough - I think I might

see a slight "bulge" or "flare" at the top of your case on your loaded

cartridge.

If that's true, just re-crimp them and they'll be fine.

[packers]

Thanks for the reply. I'll try expanding the flare for the next batch.

Here is the current flare:

Also, quick question. I noticed that the powder has a bit of static cling to it. Here is the powder tube after emptying. I suppose that's normal. Do you do anything special to combat it? I haven't see that mentioned here before.

[packers]

Welcome to the Forum and to reloading on your new toy

Have you tried to load any of these cartridges into your chamber, yet?

Looks to me like it just might not be "crimped" enough - I think I might

see a slight "bulge" or "flare" at the top of your case on your loaded

cartridge.

If that's true, just re-crimp them and they'll be fine.

Thanks! Yes - just to be cautious I tested all these in the case gauge and a few in my chamber. All work very well. I had maybe 2 that didn't quite seat all the way into the case gauge but still fit fine in the chamber.

[Hi-Power Jack]

That looks like too much "flare" to me???

That might cause the brass rings - I'd try backing off a bit.

[PTRDRGN]

I agree.. too much flare, it should be barely noticeable/visible. It takes a while to get lined out, but it looks like you are on the right track.

[mjohn]

I see from your pictures you are using some brass that I throw in the scrap bucket. I am using Zero's 147 FMJ and if I use CBC and Aquila brass (and others that I do not remember off the top of my head as I have the info written down by my reloading bench) the finished rounds will not pass the case gauge or plunk test. So to avoid problems, I sort brass by head stamp.

Wipe your powder storage tube with a used dryer sheet. Problem will go away.

[Sarge]

Just leave powder in the hopper until you need to change it etc.

Just keep messing with bell settings until the shavings go away.

Coke bottle look means you're doing it right.

Remember, after you had the squib you said maybe you weren't pushing the handle all the way forward causing high primers. Well, pushing forward also insures complete travel of the powder bar. This in turn insures you are getting the full powder drop each and every time.

[Youngeyes]

Thanks for the reply. I'll try expanding the flare for the next batch.

Here is the current flare:

Also, quick question. I noticed that the powder has a bit of static cling to it. Here is the powder tube after emptying. I suppose that's normal. Do you do anything special to combat it? I haven't see that mentioned here before.

Wipe the inside of the powder hopper with one of these, before filling with powder.

[packers]

That looks like too much "flare" to me???

I agree.. too much flare, it should be barely noticeable/visible. It takes a while to get lined out, but it looks like you are on the right track.

Makes sense as I'm pretty sure the shavings are brass and not lead.

I see from your pictures you are using some brass that I throw in the scrap bucket. I am using Zero's 147 FMJ and if I use CBC and Aquila brass (and others that I do not remember off the top of my head as I have the info written down by my reloading bench) the finished rounds will not pass the case gauge or plunk test. So to avoid problems, I sort brass by head stamp.

Wipe your powder storage tube with a used dryer sheet. Problem will go away.

Thanks! I thought I saw a post somewhere about good/bad brass but couldn't put my finger on it. I can't even read some of the head stamps. If you don't mind, would you post your "bad brass" list for 9mm?

Just leave powder in the hopper until you need to change it etc.

Just keep messing with bell settings until the shavings go away.

Coke bottle look means you're doing it right.

Remember, after you had the squib you said maybe you weren't pushing the handle all the way forward causing high primers. Well, pushing forward also insures complete travel of the powder bar. This in turn insures you are getting the full powder drop each and every time.

Good points!

Wipe the inside of the powder hopper with one of these, before filling with powder. static.JPG

Of course - makes perfect sense. Thanks!

[Candyman87]

Thanks! I thought I saw a post somewhere about good/bad brass but couldn't put my finger on it. I can't even read some of the head stamps. If you don't mind, would you post your "bad brass" list for 9mm?

The only real "bad brass" on my list is IMT/AMMOLOAD. These have a small shelf inside that cuts down on internal volume meaning some extra variation from round to round.

Personally, when it comes to 9mm, I focus on Winchester, Remington, Blazer brass for my reloads. I sort by headstamp and always have enough of these on hand that I prefer to store the others for when ammo gets scarce or I'll use them as trade bait for other calibers.

[bradsteimel]

As far as flare goes, the minimum amount you can use and still have the bullets sit nicely before seating is ideal. Any more than that will overwork your brass. But maybe softer lead bullets need more?!? I know Montanna Gold JHP's do not.

To comment on the static in the powder tube, you can address that issue OR just keep the powder tube full... that might provide for more consistent loads.

[AzShooter]

I use one brand of brass at a time. I had been getting Starline and was very happy with it but there is a problem with it sticking in the chambers of my revolver. Never had a problem in the Automatic.

I now use Winchester brass with no problems.

I avoid range brass. Mixed stamps do not give the best accuracy or reliability.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Mixed stamps do not give the best accuracy or reliability.

I guess it depends on the caliber and type of handgun, but I"ve

been using range brass for my 9mm Major in my TruBor for about

8 years without a problem.

Mixed brass got me this 3" group at 52 yards ...

[adamge]

Personally, sorting brass in 9mm is too much effort for what I'm trying to do. Which is load high quantities of IPSC-quality ammo with minimal dollars and hours.