Rebound Springs

[xuxupecheur]

I've been shooting my 686 in IDPA with WOLFF reduced power mainspring and 13lb. rebound spring. The trigger pull is light enough for me, just fine. The question is: changing rebound spring to 14 or 15 lbs. will harden the trigger pull or will simply reset trigger quicker ??? The reason why I'm asking is that sometimes while practicing (and granting my technique is not the prettiest) and trying to shoot faster I skip a chamber.

Another thing: do you really think than an extended firing pin makes a difference in a non moonclip gun?

Ideas?

Julio

[AzShooter]

I've been shooting my 686 in IDPA with WOLFF reduced power mainspring and 13lb. rebound spring. The trigger pull is light enough for me, just fine. The question is: changing rebound spring to 14 or 15 lbs. will harden the trigger pull or will simply reset trigger quicker ??? The reason why I'm asking is that sometimes while practicing (and granting my technique is not the prettiest) and trying to shoot faster I skip a chamber.

Another thing: do you really think than an extended firing pin makes a difference in a non moonclip gun?

Ideas?

Julio

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Changing to a heavier rebound spring will definately increase your trigger pull. There is a ballance point that you have to be very carefule to approach with tuning the parts and then getting the springs to the right weights.

For a quick job order a Vic Picket Spring Kit. He has a mainspring and two rebound springs in the kit. A heavy spring for Winchester and other primers and a nice light spring for Federals which take less pressure to fire.

Vic's spring kit should give you a 6 pound trigger pull.

[Patrick Sweeney]

While I'm not up to Jerry in speed (who is?) I've been able to outstrip most lightened rebound springs. I leave the factory rebound spring in my gun, and live with the heavier trigger pull.

A longer firing pin risks pierced primers, for little advantage.

[MikeFoley]

I like a heavy rebound spring. I heard the factory springs were 15 pounds, and I have noticed that the Wolff 15 pound springs are longer. I fear the short stroke, and want the gun to be smooth and reliable. I don't think a light trigger is essential, I have shot them at 9-10 pounds that were smooth as silk. I am running my 610 box stock for now to see if I want to change anything or not. My last revolver, a 646, had reduced mainspring, but heavy return spring, and so far, I am shooting stock just as well at any distance. There is a lot to be said for not taking the trigger for granted and calling the shot. I use Federal primers in my revolver exclusively, even with factory springs. I did this when I used a longer firing pin too. Reliability is paramount.

[JohnRodriguez]

Trick and the problem with the rebound spring is to match the rebound and main spring to work together. Vics kit does a real good job of matching the two. If the inside of you gun is polishied (slicked up) i've found that setting up the rebound spring to pull at around 2.5lbs to 3lbs works fine, this does not include the main spring included (that's when you tune it with the bic test). The only problem is, especially for someone who is not use to triggers being below 6lbs, is they will get light hits and/or skipped chambers. The only way around that is to learn how to run a heavy trigger and let your finger get "trained" to run the trigger cycle (all the way back, all the way forward slightly off the trigger face and then back again) If you haven't learned how to run a trigger then a light trigger will amplify the problem.

[xuxupecheur]

Where can I look for Vic Picket's spring kit?

Julio

[Bubber]

xuxu, Do you mean that you short cycle the trigger when you say you skip a cylinder? (Not letting the trigger reset completely to engage the hammer but enought to engage the tachet on the Cylinder). I like a light trigger. You can get around the problem of short cycling by practicing to make every pull a full release and pull. I haven't short cycled in a while. That being said I will probably be plagued with that the next match.

[xuxupecheur]

Again, would anybody know where to look for Vic Picket's springs?

Julio

[Randy Lee]

You might try vpickett@neta.com

[D.carden]

An important issue concerning skipping, or short strokeing is "TENSION".

You must be relaxed. Someone mentioned above about "trying" to shoot fast.

That'll get you 5-shots ( skipping ) real quick!!

I've had both light, medium, and heavy triggers before finding my "sweet" spot.

Still im capible of a "shorty" now and then, but it's not about trigger weight, it's about the "T" word that will give you 6-for-6. Less tension, better control.

Dan

End of tread drift, thought it could help!!

[bountyhunter]

For a quick job order a Vic Picket Spring Kit. He has a mainspring and two rebound springs in the kit. A heavy spring for Winchester and other primers and a nice light spring for Federals which take less pressure to fire.

Vic's spring kit should give you a 6 pound trigger pull.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

"a mainspring and two rebound springs in the kit. A heavy spring for Winchester and other primers and a nice light spring for Federals which take less pressure to fire."

The rebound spring has nothing to do with hammer striking force, that is all the mainspring.

[bountyhunter]

Another thing: do you really think than an extended firing pin makes a difference in a non moonclip gun?

Ideas?

Julio

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you mean the C+S "extended firing pin", that is a misnomer. The C+S pin xtends the tip of the FP out to the same distance it protrudes on an old hammer-mounted FP. I measured it. I have no idea why SW's frame mounted firing pins are shorter.\

BTW, I have seen ZERO improvement in performance using the C+S "extended" pins and every one was so poorly made it had to be fitted. save your money on those.

[JohnRodriguez]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

"a mainspring and two rebound springs in the kit. A heavy spring for Winchester and other primers and a nice light spring for Federals which take less pressure to fire."

The rebound spring has nothing to do with hammer striking force, that is all the mainspring.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The rebound springs has everything to do with the amount of mainspring pressure that can be applied. The longer rebound spring is needed to return the trigger when the mainspring is cranked up to fire harder primers in Vic's kit, that's why it comes with a long one and short one.

The main thing I've noticed on the extended firing pin is that the tip is almost pointed which makes it easier to focus the hit on the primer. The factory pin has a nice circle shape to it. All you have to do is sharpen up the tip of a factory pin, and you should get the same results.

[xuxupecheur]

How are Vic's spring different than let say Wolff's ? Contacted Vic, he's asking for $40 for the kit.

[10mmdave]

A sharpened firing pin don't sharpen it too much !

And not to start anything, but I believe if you take all the springs out of your

revolver, cycle it thru it's action sequence (double action) I think you'll see

the limit of the hammer travel is mechanical, not spring pressure.

Unless these lighter rebound springs allow the hammer to swing back farther

during a fast trigger stroke, there by "leaving" it's corresponding engagement

surface which would give a longer hammer arc which would equal more mainspring

pressure built up ! (me tinks I thought about this toooo long !)

Does Vic's kit actually state "long spring for Winchester, Short for Federal!"

IMO (for what it's worth) I've used the C&S pin in 2 of my revos that were

mis-firing, I also figured out I could extend the stock firing pin "reach" by making

the notch in a stock pin longer towards the back of the gun. Did that mod help ??

I believe it did, but your milage may vary.

[DougCarden]

I would concur with brother DaveP on the firing pin. I bought one of Vic's spring kits at the Steel Challenge last year and put it in my 38super. I "skeletonized" my hammer, put in an extended firing pin, the spring kit with the long rebound spring, and am now at 5.5lbs reliably! I could go lighter, but I personally dont need to. The spring kit is awesome!

[10mmdave]

I would concur with brother DaveP on the firing pin.  I bought one of Vic's spring kits at the Steel Challenge last year and put it in my 38super.  I "skeletonized" my hammer, put in an extended firing pin, the spring kit with the long rebound spring, and am now at 5.5lbs reliably!  I could go lighter, but I personally dont need to.  The spring kit is awesome!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey Doug, you bringing that revo to PA in few weeks ?? I need to try the feel

of one of Vic's spring kits, I'm too cheap to buy one to try.

[DougCarden]

"THE" PSA load was worked up and chronoed today! I am shooting both stock and open REVO, and stock pistol. You as always are welcome to any of my firesticks!

DougC

[bountyhunter]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

"a mainspring and two rebound springs in the kit. A heavy spring for Winchester and other primers and a nice light spring for Federals which take less pressure to fire."

The rebound spring has nothing to do with hammer striking force, that is all the mainspring.

The rebound springs has everything to do with the amount of mainspring pressure that can be applied. The longer rebound spring is needed to return the trigger when the mainspring is cranked up to fire harder primers in Vic's kit, that's why it comes with a long one and short one.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well, I believe my statement is 100% correct:

"The rebound spring has nothing to do with hammer striking force, that is all the mainspring."

The rebound spring adds exactly NOTHING to the striking force of the hammer which is derived solely from the mainspring.

It is true that if you choose to increase mainspring force you may need to also increase RB spring force to keep good trigger return, since the RB spring must push the trigger back and also deflect the hammer against the mainspring.

My point is that generally, a reduced power spring set is designed with the mainspring to be a given force (about 30% less than stock), when the strain screw is fully turned down. Which is to say, you don't have the option of increasing the mainspring force beyond that, it is what it is (you can put a shim under the head of the screw to increase it). Multiple RB springs are included in performance kits to tune the trigger return feel. Perhaps this kit comes with a selection of mainsprings?

I think you'll see

the limit of the hammer travel is mechanical, not spring pressure.

Yep, that is true (in both directions).

I've used the C&S pin in 2 of my revos that were

mis-firing, I also figured out I could extend the stock firing pin "reach" by making

the notch in a stock pin longer towards the back of the gun. Did that mod help ??

I believe it did, but your milage may vary.

Good to hear, I specifically tested to see if I could get lower DA pulls using them and saw no improvement. Probably depends on the ammo.

[10mmdave]

Me sees the light now bountyhunter, I get what your saying

Doug, chronoing loads ?? I haven't even loaded my PSA ammo

I still need bullets

Another shooting season, and me doing everything by the JIT method !