Rem 1100 loading gate/ easy loader ?'s

[NoKimberDave]

Hello. I have a Remington 1100 Tac4 . I recently started shooting 3 gun and would like to do a little work on this gun. I now realize 3gun should really be called "Shotgun loading and spendy shell holder capacity competition", lol.

I realize their are better guns for this. But, budget is a factor, and I must say I love this gun. Seems to shoot everything quite well.

I would like to:

1. Install Dave's Easy Loader

2. Open up the loading port a bit, or at least smooth it out.

Any help and/or tips would be appreciated.

What I would really like would be some photos of other people's work on their loading areas and Easy loader installs.

This would help me to see what to take off and what to leave on. I've seen some who cut down the Easy Loader a bit. And I'd like to get an idea of radius to shoot for at the side walls, etc., before firing up the Dremel and doing my best to ruin my perfectly serviceable shotgun! I'd like to be able to do quads loads.

I know it's a pain in the keister to pull out a gun and shoot photos, but I implore you to do this, as the karmic rewards are sure to follow quickly, and surely outweigh the minimal time involved. And who doesn't like an excuse to pull their shotgun out? Heh.

Thanks for the help, I do really appreciate it.

[GunCat]

I do not have a 3 gun modified 1100 around to photograph but I can offer this helpful guide to installing that Easyloader

Edited October 3, 2015 by GunCat

[Vlad]

You can only open up an 1100/11-87 so much before you start running into important bits, particularly the sides. The front of the loading port you cab open up a bit more. Also you will probably want to cut off a whole chunk of the handguard, basically you can cut it off to the end of the receiver and then smooth it out some more.

I'll have to dig mine out and take some pictures.

I recommend buying a spare trigger group. When you install the easyloader you remove quite a bit from a particular part of the lifter. It happens to be where the lifter is thin. This was never an issue when doing old fashioned week hand loading from caddies. When I started smacking into it with quads, I eventually broke the lifter right at that spot. It is a $15 worth of parts fix but not something you can fix at a match. In my opinion you will eventually want a spare trigger group with lifter and easy loader pre-installed as a spare in your bag.

[NoKimberDave]

I do not have a 3 gun modified 1100 around to photograph but I can offer this helpful guide to installing that Easyloader

First thing I did was print that out! Found it while researching esay loader. Turned out helpful!

You can only open up an 1100/11-87 so much before you start running into important bits, particularly the sides. The front of the loading port you cab open up a bit more. Also you will probably want to cut off a whole chunk of the handguard, basically you can cut it off to the end of the receiver and then smooth it out some more.

I'll have to dig mine out and take some pictures.

I recommend buying a spare trigger group. When you install the easyloader you remove quite a bit from a particular part of the lifter. It happens to be where the lifter is thin. This was never an issue when doing old fashioned week hand loading from caddies. When I started smacking into it with quads, I eventually broke the lifter right at that spot. It is a $15 worth of parts fix but not something you can fix at a match. In my opinion you will eventually want a spare trigger group with lifter and easy loader pre-installed as a spare in your bag.

I did the EL install yesterday. I was surprised at how thin the material was there. I polished up the EL fairly well and patiently filed where required. Was a long process for me as I had never even opened the 1100 up! The trigger group was a challenge, with a spring launching across the room.

But I got it all together and fitted. Was impressed with myself, frankly. Well, until my girlfriend woke up this morning AND said "Hey, what is this little piece of metal I found on the floor"? Haha. I thought it was related to the launching spring and ran it down on a parts diagram. So, I'll have to take the bugger apart again and get that back in their. Which is fine because I think I am going to hit the EL with a few more licks with the file to get it closing a little later.

Then, while it's apart, I will tackle opening up the port a hair, but mainly just smoothing corners.

While I am in there I will stick a new gas ring on it. Should then be good to go with a little testing. Not sure if I will end up bobbing the EL a little. I'll have to see how it works.

Thanks for the posts fellas. Please post some photos of loading ports if you can.

[Vlad]

Sorry about the crappy pictures, the light was crap and my phone wasn't thrilled about it

[NoKimberDave]

Thanks Vlad, that does help! I appreciate you taking the time.

[dcloudy777]

The only thing I know about the Easy Loader is that if you bump it while scraping carbon out from under the extractor it lets the bolt fly forward with enough force to easily embed said extractor all the way into your thumb. And that really, really hurts. And bleeds a lot.

[Flash74]

The easy loader was a god send on my 11-87. When I went from weak hand loading to load two, I started to pinch my thumb on the end of "fingers" on the easy loader. I ended up cutting the "fingers" in half to shorten them. That made loading two much easier.

[MarkCO]

The only thing I know about the Easy Loader is that if you bump it while scraping carbon out from under the extractor it lets the bolt fly forward with enough force to easily embed said extractor all the way into your thumb. And that really, really hurts. And bleeds a lot.

And one thinks that would learn them the lesson. Nope, scars I have on both thumbs.

[racnsoonr]

The easy loader was a god send on my 11-87. When I went from weak hand loading to load two, I started to pinch my thumb on the end of "fingers" on the easy loader. I ended up cutting the "fingers" in half to shorten them. That made loading two much easier.

I cut mine down farther as well to keep from snagging my thumbs so much. I was still weakhand loading. I also rounded the fingers smoother for the same reason.

I ended up with an M2 before I got around to cutting on the loading port any. I think the tube I bought may have been from Dave's as well. Nordic didn't have anything for mine when I needed it

[NoKimberDave]

Mines got an 8 round tube, which I think I will stick with and shoot factory division. Try to avoid the equipment race, lol. Just shooting for fun now and to improve my skills.

I may cut the fingers down a bit, as they are awfully long. Hard to resist the call of the Dremel ....!

Need some dummy rounds to practice duals and quads. Thanks for the posts.

[shooterx10]

I used a Dremel tool with sanding drum attachment to take off some of the metal on the sides and front of the loading port. I took it down as close as I can to the interceptor and feed latches. I also had to open up the feed tube just a little bit. I then sand smooth the exposed metal of the loading port and polished the metal with the Dremel tool. I cut the Easy loader and rounded out the fingers so I don't get my fingers pinched.

BTW, the roll pin that Dave's Metal Works supplies with the Easyloader broke on me. So, I had to re-use the stock pin from Remington and never had that problem since.

Edited October 11, 2015 by shooterx10

[NoKimberDave]

I used a Dremel tool with sanding drum attachment to take off some of the metal on the sides and front of the loading port. I took it down as close as I can to the interceptor and feed latches. I also had to open up the feed tube just a little bit. I then sand smooth the exposed metal of the loading port and polished the metal with the Dremel tool. I cut the Easy loader and rounded out the fingers so I don't get my fingers pinched.

BTW, the roll pin that Dave's Metal Works supplies with the Easyloader broke on me. So, I had to re-use the stock pin from Remington and never had that problem since.

Cool, that is very helpful. I actually ordered an extra Remington pin as I had heard the roll pin sucks.

On the pin: do I just grind/file it flush? I have it hanging just out a bit. I guess by filing it it leaves a little "gall" (not sure if correct term) to keep it from coming out?

I am leaning towards shortening the EL a bit, too.

[shooterx10]

I used a Dremel tool with sanding drum attachment to take off some of the metal on the sides and front of the loading port. I took it down as close as I can to the interceptor and feed latches. I also had to open up the feed tube just a little bit. I then sand smooth the exposed metal of the loading port and polished the metal with the Dremel tool. I cut the Easy loader and rounded out the fingers so I don't get my fingers pinched.

BTW, the roll pin that Dave's Metal Works supplies with the Easyloader broke on me. So, I had to re-use the stock pin from Remington and never had that problem since.

Cool, that is very helpful. I actually ordered an extra Remington pin as I had heard the roll pin sucks.

On the pin: do I just grind/file it flush? I have it hanging just out a bit. I guess by filing it it leaves a little "gall" (not sure if correct term) to keep it from coming out?

I am leaning towards shortening the EL a bit, too.

I have my pin hanging out just a little bit. There was a sharp edge on the pin, so I filed it down just a tad. I have never heard of the pin backing out on any Remington 1100's, but you never know.

[Lange22250]

I'll just throw this out there for your consideration.

I tried to make an 1100 work for 3 Gun and dumped about 500$ of gunsmith rebuilds, on to of the initial purchase and upgrades, into it to keeping it running but just gave up. In the end and went with a M1S90 for the durability.

Just about everyone else I know who has, or does, try to make the 1100 work has similar issues. They don't stand up to high round counts with the mix of ammo a lot of people use in 3 Gun like slugs, high base, turkey loads and Prairie Storm.

This could be one of those "buy once, cry once" situations for you.

The Stoger 3000 is a good low cost option that may save you money, time and frustration in the end.

More money options like the Versamax, M2S90 or 1301 would be really hard to grow out of.

Edited October 14, 2015 by Lange22250

[kurtm]

I know a guy who replaced the 1100 lifter with an 870 lifter. Sure, it wouldn't lock back when empty, but it loaded like a dream. No easy loader needed! Just a thought.

[NoKimberDave]

I know a guy who replaced the 1100 lifter with an 870 lifter. Sure, it wouldn't lock back when empty, but it loaded like a dream. No easy loader needed! Just a thought.

I'll think about that. But probably too far down this road already!

I'll just throw this out there for your consideration.

I tried to make an 1100 work for 3 Gun and dumped about 500$ of gunsmith rebuilds, on to of the initial purchase and upgrades, into it to keeping it running but just gave up. In the end and went with a M1S90 for the durability.

Just about everyone else I know who has, or does, try to make the 1100 work has similar issues. They don't stand up to high round counts with the mix of ammo a lot of people use in 3 Gun like slugs, high base, turkey loads and Prairie Storm.

This could be one of those "buy once, cry once" situations for you.

The Stoger 3000 is a good low cost option that may save you money, time and frustration in the end.

More money options like the Versamax, M2S90 or 1301 would be really hard to grow out of.

I hear you. It ain't ideal. Friends have been kind enough to let me try several guns. I've tried a Versa, a couple Benellis, and a M3000.

I really like the Benelli's. But the Versa was sweet, too. The M3000 is nice but I feel like by the time I dump money into it to get it where I'd want it, I am at Benelli price almost.

At any rate, going to soldier on with this gun as I shoot 3gun maybe once a month. When I have some cash saved I'll likely get something else.

Thanks again for replies/opinions.

[Don_B]

If you will PM your email address I will give you some pointers on the 1100. I am one of the very few still shooting the 1100. Been using this one for about 15 years and it seems it worked good enough to win Open Division at the Pikes Peak Shotgun Challenge against all the above mentioned better shotguns including the mag fed shotguns.

Yes I have broken parts in it but none of them are immune to that.

[NoKimberDave]

If you will PM your email address I will give you some pointers on the 1100. I am one of the very few still shooting the 1100. Been using this one for about 15 years and it seems it worked good enough to win Open Division at the Pikes Peak Shotgun Challenge against all the above mentioned better shotguns including the mag fed shotguns.

Yes I have broken parts in it but none of them are immune to that.

Thanks. PM sent!

[shooterx10]

I'll just throw this out there for your consideration.

I tried to make an 1100 work for 3 Gun and dumped about 500$ of gunsmith rebuilds, on to of the initial purchase and upgrades, into it to keeping it running but just gave up. In the end and went with a M1S90 for the durability.

Just about everyone else I know who has, or does, try to make the 1100 work has similar issues. They don't stand up to high round counts with the mix of ammo a lot of people use in 3 Gun like slugs, high base, turkey loads and Prairie Storm.

This could be one of those "buy once, cry once" situations for you.

The Stoger 3000 is a good low cost option that may save you money, time and frustration in the end.

More money options like the Versamax, M2S90 or 1301 would be really hard to grow out of.

I shoot mostly club level 3-gun matches, and the Remington 1100 is great for that. If I was not able to open up the loading port to do dual/quad loads on the 1100, I'd probably would be shooting a Stoeger 3000, Mossberg JM Pro, or Beretta 1301 competition.

Another thing I did is open up the two gas ports in the barrel with a drill bit to allow more gas to cycle the action. I clean the barrel, gas ports, and action bar after every practice or match for this gun does not run well while dirty. I also carry extra gas O rings. With all this, my 1100 does shoot Remington reduced recoil slugs and Wal-mart sold ammo with no issues.

[NoKimberDave]

The first time I took apart my 1100 was to install the EL. I had already shot 250+ shells through it. Mostly WM bulk federal, and some low recoil slugs and regular sluggers.

No problems at all. Took it apart and the gas seal o-rings were crusty and very old. Ready to crumble! I had purchased new oring spares when I got the gun, having read that it is an item that should be frequently attended to. Was surprised how well the gun worked as dirty as it was.

Will replace orings and lub/clean it well before my next test fire. Still haven't got out to test EL yet.

[USASkeet shooter]

I have extensively opened up the load port on my 1100 and a few other mods that have gotten it running like a top. I have yet to find ammo it does not like now, and it is not picky about running clean or dirty, even after 500-1k rounds between cleaning. (aside from a lil rust in the 1973 original blueing if I neglect it that long :S )
I have been running it in 3gun the last 2 years and have got it set up where I can effectively quad load it. Though if you do not seat that last round and it pops on top of the lifter, it is a bear to bring it back from paper-weight status.

I will try to remember tomorrow afternoon to take some pictures and post it up here

[NoKimberDave]

I have extensively opened up the load port on my 1100 and a few other mods that have gotten it running like a top. I have yet to find ammo it does not like now, and it is not picky about running clean or dirty, even after 500-1k rounds between cleaning. (aside from a lil rust in the 1973 original blueing if I neglect it that long :S )

I have been running it in 3gun the last 2 years and have got it set up where I can effectively quad load it. Though if you do not seat that last round and it pops on top of the lifter, it is a bear to bring it back from paper-weight status.

I will try to remember tomorrow afternoon to take some pictures and post it up here

Please do post some photos please!

I finally got a chance to test mine a little. Works great. However, I did get a few failures to lock back on empty. I think it is related to the heavy easyloader. My next job is shortening that a bit as others have done.

I shot a shotgun match last weekend, and it was a learning experience. Borrowed a Versa and it was amazing. Short stroking your reloads and getting one over the lifter required only grabbing the charging handle and jacking it out.

Yesterday, while shooting the 1100, I got one over the lifter and it was dead in the water. Jammed up good and I had to disassemble the gun to get it out!

Am I missing something here? It would not open up at all. That sucked!

[USASkeet shooter]

no need to shorten or lighten the easy loader, or lifter. That is not the problem. What is happening is the carrier latch at the back of the lifter tends to bounce back and out of position. They corrected this problem on the 11-87 and some magnum models. Brownells is where I got the part to fix it (767-268-750WB Carrier Assembly)
It has an arm that holds the carrier latch back after the shell engages it after coming out of the tube and gives enough tension along the side to hold it forward and not allow it to travel back under recoil stopping it from locking open,

[USASkeet shooter]

As far as a shell getting on top of the lifter, I suffer from this as well occasionally, but unfortunately the cause of this is operator error, nothing with the gun. If I don't put the last shell in far enough untill it clicks past the shell catch, it will throw it on top of the lifter Every time. So what I did was open the loading port more forward exposing more of the follower and allow my thumb to push the shells in further without having to roll my thumb under and Into the feed tube.