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M&P9 not enough I've teavel


ShortBus

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Just got a new M&P9 manual saftey model (too good of a deal to miss) I shot it a few times yesterday and was happy with it. Was dry firing it today and noticed that the trigger bottoms out then takes a little more pressure to go off.. I'm not digging it. I want a LITTLE over travel. This will be a carry gun after vetting.. Which it's not off to a great start.

Gun looked brand new when purchased, owner said less than 50 rounds and I 100% believe it was more like less than 10.

Modifications

KKM barrel

Apex duty carry kit

Saftey and saftey block and spring? Removed (no plugs)

As far as I know this is it. When dry firing with the slide off it almost looks like the trigger bar could slide off the sear and miss it completely.. It's only engaging half the surface, which isn't much. The striker and part of the sear that releases the striker look un molested. Any thoughts?

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Notice the side to side wiggle

Of the trigger bar when starting the press? Is this normal? I'd think it would utilize all of the area of the "bow" and sear? My last M&P didn't have this issue so I never inspected any of this really.

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp81/hook_setter/Mobile%20Uploads/th_trim.94EC24F4-4172-4411-914A-482879794EE7_zpshuqx4w4g.mp4

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Wow, you have your own asked and answered, completely self-contained thread!

Well, you did until I ruined it.

I've put a few Apex goodies in 3 or 4 M&P's and had to play with the "loop" a couple of times. Pretty easy gun to live with when you get to know them.

The frame plugs are worth installing if you want a more finished appearance. As I recall the right one took a bit of fitting.

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In the past I followed the common advice of adjusting the trigger bar loop to get the sear release timing I wanted. However, after I had a loop break mid-match, and having read about a few similar incidents reported here and in other web fora, I don't do it anymore. My working theory is that "opening up" the loop to advance the timing of the sear release allows the loop to flex slightly with each trigger pull, eventually leading to fatigue failure. May be acceptable for a match gun, but I would not do it on a carry gun.

I guess you could try to re-shape the loop by bending the apex upwards first, then bending the tip down to re-contact the base of the loop? I have also considered whether filling the loop with something rigid (epoxy, soft solder etc.) might help, but I've not felt the need yet.

Your other option might be to pare down the overtravel stop with a razor knife to get a bit more clearance.

Here is the broken trigger bar loop so you can look out for similar failure:

MampP%20Broken%20Trigger%20Bar%201_zpsbd

MampP%20Broken%20Trigger%20Bar%202_zps13

MampP%20Broken%20Trigger%20Bar%203_zpsio

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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I've got over 70K rounds on one pistol and over 20K on the new one. I've adjusted the loops on both of them after putting a FSS trigger in. No loop breakage. (but I have broken a couple of slide locks)

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I didn't do a bunch of fiddling around when I adjusted my trigger bar, just once to get the timing correct and that was it. I know people who are constantly adjusting the loop and I think that would weaken the metal over time. I don't know if I'd solder it either, the heat part would bother me, maybe filling up the loop with JB Weld (yeah that's the ticket, that stuff will fix anything).

70K trigger bar on the left, 20k on the right

post-56380-0-29386100-1438717421_thumb.j

post-56380-0-53861200-1438717458_thumb.j

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I put in FFS triggers to 2 of my MP9 pros (both have APEX competition kit + RAM installed) without adjusting the loop. They have been functioning flawlessly for the past 5000 rounds or so. The sear gets pushed up less pronounced than the stock trigger but it's enough to function correctly. Is there really a need to bend the loop?

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I put in FFS triggers to 2 of my MP9 pros (both have APEX competition kit + RAM installed) without adjusting the loop. They have been functioning flawlessly for the past 5000 rounds or so. The sear gets pushed up less pronounced than the stock trigger but it's enough to function correctly. Is there really a need to bend the loop?

Obviously not for you, but it's sometimes necessary (it's mentioned in the install videos) and I've had to do it in the 3 I've installed.

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