mulrick Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Dang this inspires me, have a file but need a jig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMike Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I don't know you well enough to call you Nick but that is some beautiful work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I got my files from brownells. Here is a link to the rifflers I use. I have both medium and fine. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/fine-file-sku080648604-701-2881.aspx?sku=080648604 If anyone is interested in a jig like the one I made for holding the frame, I could do up a few more them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulrick Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I got my files from brownells. Here is a link to the rifflers I use. I have both medium and fine. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/fine-file-sku080648604-701-2881.aspx?sku=080648604 If anyone is interested in a jig like the one I made for holding the frame, I could do up a few more them. I might be interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 I got my files from brownells. Here is a link to the rifflers I use. I have both medium and fine. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/files/fine-file-sku080648604-701-2881.aspx?sku=080648604 If anyone is interested in a jig like the one I made for holding the frame, I could do up a few more them. If you come up with a price I'd probably be interested. Shoot me a pm when you get time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Is that a home shop or a work location? good gracious we'd be jealous, huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Nickb45 I am interested in your holding fixture. It is much better than what I have right now. I would be very interested in a file guide that worked with it to get the base lines established. (I tried the aluminum fixture brownells sells without success) -john Edited January 3, 2015 by practical_man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I used to use a simple flat piece of steel to get the vertical grooves straight. After the first couple that the checkering file cut, you have to deepen each one, then move to the next, and repeat the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Nickb45 I am interested in your holding fixture. It is much better than what I have right now. I would be very interested in a file guide that worked with it to get the base lines established. (I tried the aluminum fixture brownells sells without success) -john Pm sent. I have had good luck with the power customs guide that I posted a link to. I use a riffler to get the line started, it was too hard to get the pattern file flat and in the same spot when starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Can anyone tell me how hard a investment cast stainless is versus stainless bar stock? I've been doing some practicing on aluminum square stock first then steel square stock then aluminum and steel 3/4" round stock and that went ok so I proceeded to 3/4" round stainless and boy that was miserable. I'm assuming investment cast, which I believe Ruger 1911s are, have to be softer and easier to work with than straight stainless. Is this correct or is it just as hard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 My Ruger frame wasn't too bad. I didn't practice on any bar stock, I just used the Caspian practice frame then went onto the real deal. Make sure you keep your file clean and chalked. I chalk mine after every 10 strokes or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinZA Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Stainless steel does not have the range of hardness that carbon steel does. All stainless starts out relatively hard and some stainless can be hardened a bit further by heat treatment. I suspect all stainless is going to be hard work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 My Ruger frame wasn't too bad. I didn't practice on any bar stock, I just used the Caspian practice frame then went onto the real deal. Make sure you keep your file clean and chalked. I chalk mine after every 10 strokes or so. Sorry for the delay on this thread. I will order a practice frame from caspian this week but was wondering if you got the carbon frame or the stainless frame to practice on from caspian? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I didn't have an option as to which one to get when I ordered mine. They sent me a carbon steel frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Awesome...I will be ordering today and I'm sure I'll have more questions the further I go with this. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 You're welcome. Feel free to ask. I will be starting some more checkering tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARK Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Can you record Yotube tutorial for us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I will take lots of pictures. I will try to remember to set up my GoPro and do a time lapse. Edited February 10, 2015 by Nickb45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you think about it, I'm really interested in seeing how you do the first cut to put a wire into that acts as your vertical stop. Come to think of it, I'm interested to see it all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you think about it, I'm really interested in seeing how you do the first cut to put a wire into that acts as your vertical stop. Come to think of it, I'm interested to see it all...After I do my horizontals I usually run a round file in the top line to give it a good boarder and a place to put the wire. I put my GoPro on the charger so I will get a few videos and/or time lapse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Today I started off undercutting the trigger guard. Supplies for the day. http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t365/nicksb45/1911s/BEEC39FD-D943-458E-BA1C-809FE7A9DDA5_zps4t5kirsw.jpg http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t365/nicksb45/1911s/85A38A1A-8EDE-4D8B-9070-D67BAD2C78DA_zpsiv0r14cb.jpg Edited February 11, 2015 by Nickb45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) I start off by filing the front strap, it shows any high/low places. Then I do the "shoe shine" method with some emery cloth to clean everything up. Using the power customs guide I start my horizontals (I should have a video tomorrow) Then I run down the rest of the front strap. I go pretty deep with the checkering file so I don't have as much work to do with the riffler This is where I use a round needle file to create the top boarder. http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t365/nicksb45/1911s/5C3E4013-8454-4B81-829D-62675E582578_zpswcjiejoc.jpg Edited February 11, 2015 by Nickb45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I use the same guide to start the verticals. I also use the riffler to start the first line. With the file set in the corner it's easier for me to keep the line straight. This is probably the hardest and most important line. After its established I start with the checkering file again. The verticals go a lot faster than the horizontals. I didn't use the wire for a stop this time, with the undercut I like to file it back a little so the checkering is higher. I will finish it up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel6977 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks for the pictures and I'm excited to see the video. I was talking to a gunsmith today and was advised on using grip tape as opposed to hand checkering on my own due to the silica in cast receivers that tear up checkering files. Did you have any issues with this when you did your Ruger frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickb45 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) No issues with my files, one side on my checkering file i can feel is duller, and my riffler that I use the most is getting dull. But I think this is my 6th front strap with those files. I think I could easily do 3 or 4 more front straps with the checkering file, I need another riffler. But for less than $100, I got 6 complete front straps, that's less than $20 a piece for tooling. Better than $250+ shipping and 6+ month wait to have it done by someone. And besides, grip tape belongs on skateboards and plastic guns... not 1911s. Edited February 11, 2015 by Nickb45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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