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Occasional failure to go into battery


bockerSV

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Well like the title says, my accu shadow is having a little bit of trouble every once in a while not going completely into battery. I run factory ammunition. Thought it might have been a magazine issue so I switched some mags around and still have the problem every once in a while. Should I just put a stronger recoil spring in it and deal with the slight increase in recoil? The gun hasn't been messed with since it came from CZC.

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CZs ship with a notoriously short throat. Remove the barrel and drop in a loaded round. Does it spin freely or is it caught on the rifling?

I borrowed a finish reamer and cut all my chambers a few thousands longer after experiencing this problem with some JHPs.

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My Shadow will do this when it starts to get dirty or if the rails are not oiled/lubed enough. Try some of Brian's Enos slide glide or David at Cajun Gunworks has a moly based lube. I have used the stuff from CGW and it works very well. If you are using factory mags you should get the +10% springs. My shadow operates more reliability with the +10% springs from CZC.

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Anyone know what the accu shadows ship with? I'm probably going to buy a few different strengths of recoil spring to try them all out but it would be good to know that as a reference.

Answered my own question, 11lbs

Edited by bockerSV
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My Shadow will do this when it starts to get dirty or if the rails are not oiled/lubed enough. Try some of Brian's Enos slide glide or David at Cajun Gunworks has a moly based lube. I have used the stuff from CGW and it works very well. If you are using factory mags you should get the +10% springs. My shadow operates more reliability with the +10% springs from CZC.

All of this ^^^^

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Which +10% springs are you guys referring to? I have the same failure to go into battery issues as well as occasional nose dives with tilted followers on a 9mm TS I just got, also with factory ammo. No amount of follower modification, oil or feed lip bending has helped.

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When you order 10 or more the price is $4.55 each, best price I have found

CZ 75/85/SP01 Full Size Magazine Spring +10%

http://czcustom.com/CZ75magazinesprings10.aspx

I do not have a TS and do not have direct experience but I would go with the spring and follower below for a TS. They also have a kit with the 10 coil spring. The one below is the extra power 11 coil spring. You probably sacrifice a round with the 11 coil spring.

CZ 75 TS Xtra Power Magazine Spring

http://czcustom.com/CZ-TS-Extended-IPSC-Magazine-Spring.aspx

Follower

http://czcustom.com/czctsand75follower.aspx

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I have a TS that started to do this occasionally and got progressively worse. I have the extra power mag springs. I also shoot factory loads. I recently replaced the factory recoil spring with a 15 lb spring, and have not had any problems since. I think the original recoil spring may have worn out.

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I had this happen to me at a match last weekend. The problem got progressively worse at each stage. In my case it was just a dirty chamber and a bore snake fixed me right up. If it matters I run +10% springs in factory mags we BE Slide Glide on the rails. I suppose I need clean my gun a bit more often.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Mines been squeaky clean the whole time so I'm kinda puzzled. I'm switching from CLP to some Castor 927 2 stroke oil, should help it slide a little smoother. I know a heavier recoil spring should take care of the issue, I'm just puzzled why I'm having the problem in the first place, I have a buddy who's shadow is set up with nearly the same spring tensions.

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^ What he said, more or less. I'm gonna try a new recoil spring, extra power mag springs and replace some followers I may have destroyed with my tinkering. If that fixes it great, if not it was pretty cheap and not bad things to do anyways. I will then be truly puzzled though.

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I'm a firm believer that if you have a properly broken in new gun (100 rds thru it)

-the feed ramp is properly angled, smoothed, and top edge properly rounded

-trusted brand of new mags (mecgar or cz) & newish springs

-and you clean the gun well and medium oil moving parts

-properly made bullets factory, or measured OAL, cases, reloads

If your gun jams 1/2 inch from going into battery, that is quite a bit and if you can't see that the shell is at an angle into the chamber and is straight, then it's likely not a feed ramp issue. If the shell is straight with the barrel, it may be a fat rear (reloads w/bulged case) but with factory load, then maybe a lockup issue with the barrel/slide lugs. Can you duplicate this at home safely by hand cycling the gun? If during live fire, is the casing visible ie..angled jam to the barrel or is the shell straight into line w/barrel.

you should be able to load a full magazine and with "medium" speed and smooth force be able to hand cycle the shells into and out of the gun. Many guns from the factory & not talking just CZ "any" manf, may cycle during the full boom & force but also may cycle harshly and not smoothly. If you moderately can cycle shells into and out of battery, your gun will likely run smooth during live fire. If you smoothly cycle at a medium rate/force by hand (not slowly but not snatching it back and letting go of the slide each round either) but more of a holding the slide and using even forward and back pressure to simulate cycling at a 50% rate the full range of the slide back and all the way closed and the gun seems to almost stop or does stop about 1/2 inch open, then something is a little off. Most people I've helped run into this especially when shooting hollowpoints, but also for roundnose jams. Most manfs don't round off the top edge of the ramp enough and since the shell never goes straight into the hole anyway, the combination of the angle of the shell, nose of the bullet and extractor all can put enough pressure to cause a jam of the shell about half way into the chamber at an angle (usually this is the portion during hand cycling that feels like a speed bump) and the gun will usually go into battery with a hard palm to the rear slide. This takes the recoil spring out of the equation more and tests the feed ramp/extractor angles & smoothness more. Also look at the bottom of the extractor because they can have a sharp point that tends to dig into the forward part of the rim angle or sandwich the rear rim into the extractor cut and create drag or jams. Files are not my preferred way to polish or angle a feed ramp or the top ramp edge nor for extractor hooks (maybe to knock of the sharp bottom corner of extr hks) then a polish type abrasive like a pencil eraser that takes just a little metal but polishes metal like 700-1000 grit to finish. I've almost never had a pistol or manf that didn't need some improvement to the areas above. Not saying the gun didn't work, but I generally make them better. Some guns had jamming and hand cycling can help you "feel" and duplicate the issue without firing. Hope this help.

Edited by AirForce2
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Well I've been doing the palm to the back of the slide to correct the problem under match pressure (which, the CZC HAJO rear sight is really good at removing palm skin, incase anyone was wondering), but I've switched over to WWB and I've run like 100 rounds through it flawlessly so far earlier today. So I'm going to test more but at this moment I'm chalking it up to break in issues and ammunition.

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My Shadow will do this when it starts to get dirty or if the rails are not oiled/lubed enough. Try some of Brian's Enos slide glide or David at Cajun Gunworks has a moly based lube. I have used the stuff from CGW and it works very well. If you are using factory mags you should get the +10% springs. My shadow operates more reliability with the +10% springs from CZC.

This.

I had similar problems in my CZ75 TS. Polished the feed ramp and the chamber and was good to go again.

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