lstone Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) I have a Glock 35 that I bought. It is a retired police service pistol. The gun never has grouped well and will have flyers most of the time. after looking at the forums I have come up with I probably have a Locking block or barrel issue. I can push down on the chamber when the gun is locked in battery and it will move a good 32nd of a inch and the slide will move back a equal amount. I Can take my glock 34 and do the same thing and it will barely move at all. the question is what is the best way to eliminate which part. I don't really want to buy a barrel if its the locking block or vice versa. all help appreciated Edited July 19, 2014 by lstone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Can you please post a picture of the Glock 35 retired police service revolver? I have never seen a G35 revolver..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstone Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) oops.. lack of proof reading.. it is corrected Grumpy Edited July 19, 2014 by lstone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 In answer to your question, probably a locking block problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Can you please post a picture of the Glock 35 retired police service revolver? I have never seen a G35 revolver..... LOL.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I'd would change these 4 parts.. If it still is loose i think the only way is to get a KKM Barrel to get it to lock up tight. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/462981/glock-locking-block-pin-glock-17-19-20-21-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29-30-31-32-33-34-35-37-38-39?cm_vc=ProductFinding http://www.midwayusa.com/product/679221/glock-slide-lock-glock-17-19-20-21-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29-30-31-32-33-34-35-37-38-39-steel-blue?cm_vc=ProductFinding http://www.midwayusa.com/product/569501/glock-slide-lock-spring-glock-17-20-21-21sf-22-31-34-35-37?cm_vc=ProductFinding http://www.midwayusa.com/product/273303/glock-locking-block-glock-17-17l-34-20-21-21sf-37-3-pin-model?cm_vc=ProductFinding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstone Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Thank you bigtimelarry for the part #'s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igolfat8 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Larry, Could he swap parts from his 34 to 35 and narrow it down before ordering those parts? Edited July 19, 2014 by igolfat8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gcountry Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Those are all good parts to have lying around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Larry, Could he swap parts from his 34 to 35 and narrow it down before ordering those parts? Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polymerfeelsweirdman Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) If I remember right, locking blocks are non swappable between 34 and 35 Edited July 19, 2014 by polymerfeelsweirdman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstone Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 I would like to try swapping parts and will look at that but the 35 is a gen 3 and the 34 is a gen 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 If I remember right, locking blocks are non swappable between 34 and 35 Same part number for G34/G35 if made after 2002. Different part number prior to 2002. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayonaise Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 All the frame parts are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polymerfeelsweirdman Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Not between gen 3 and 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Why don't you tighten up your frame to slide fit first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Why don't you tighten up your frame to slide fit first? Not a 1911. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Why don't you tighten up your frame to slide fit first?Not a 1911......Doesn't have to be a 1911 to need work tightening the slide channels. Takes a ton of slop out of it. Use the search feature and you'll see plenty on this subject.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polymerfeelsweirdman Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 What would be the point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I aint got the balls to hit my slide with a hammer to tighten it up. I don't think I could do it in a press either.. I'm scared i'd F--k it up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Slide to frame fit doesn't have that much to do with accuracy in a Glock unless you are shooting a frame mounted optic. It can help to clean up the trigger but I don't think it will do wonders for our groups. Lock into the slide is more important but all of my factory Glocks have had some play when you push down on the hood. Find a friend with a G35 and try the part swap out to see if anything makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 ..... Doesn't have to be a 1911 to need work tightening the slide channels. Takes a ton of slop out of it. Use the search feature and you'll see plenty on this subject.. A tight barrel lock up is the most important accuracy enhancement on a Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven420 Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 And you can tighten that lock up by improving the slide to frame fit.. before you go throwing parts at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom C Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 True enough you can improve lockup by improving the slide to frame fit but that is not the typical "fix" for these types of problems in Glocks. Most time the problem is the locking block followed by one of any number of issues with the barrel. While seldom necessary, if you have a Glock Armorer in your area I'd take the weapon and a sample target to him/her (include some the unused ammunition from the box used to shoot this group) and have them give it a once over. Yes there are costs involved but if you are not comfortable doing work on a Glock for yourself, an Armorer becomes a resonable compromise. And FYI...I am NOT a Glock Armorer but have one close by and his detail skills have kept my Glock in the "game" for well over 100,000 rounds with no change in accuracy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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