Has using a Glock changed the way you press the trigger?

[fwrun]

After searching the forum for a similar topic without any luck, I've decided to post my observation/question to you all here...

Prior to February of this year, I was an M&P shooter. Loved the full-size and Pro 9mm, as well as the full-size and compact 45. I had used a variety of parts/modifications in each one (from bone-stock in the compact .45, to the fully tricked out full-size 9mm decked with Apex parts. I shot each of them fairly well, using each in a number of pistol and pistol/carbine classes with excellent success from the reliability and accuracy stand point.

Then, around February I decided I wanted to start shooting Glock pistols. Everyone close to me shoots Glock pistols in 9mm, and I liked the sheer number of parts and magazines available for them compared to the M&P (at least in my neck of the woods). It only took me about a week to adjust to the grip angle, and the subsequent difference in draw & presentation, but the trigger took me almost a month to fully grasp (was always pushing shots to 9 o'clock, a problem I didn't have in ANY M&P). After that month, I was able to shoot the Glocks even better than my m&p's (split times, and accuracy under speed).

*(Scroll to here if you want to skip the backstory)*

Despite this, I've had some REALLY frustrating results with my Gen 3 pistol (17) that had me remembering the good old days of the M&P. As I was waiting in a store for a gunsmith to fit new sights to my 1911, I was killing time by handling the M&P Pro and CORE pistols, and noticed my trigger pull was absolute garbage (based on feedback from the front sight). So naturally, I set the Pro down, and ask to handle the G34 right next to it for a comparison. I ensure pistol is cleared, get my sight alignment and *click,* absolutely perfect trigger press. No movement in the front sight in any direction, just still as can be. Rinse and repeat 3 more times. Then I pick up the Pro again, get my sight alignment, *click,* WHOA that was bad... and bad again... and again... Tried another M&P and found the same result. Around that time, my 1911 was ready for pick up so I payed the 'smith for the job I could have done myself if I only had the tools and headed out the door perplexed.

Has anyone else that has gone back and forth between M&P's and Glocks noticed a worsened trigger pull in one system the price for a better trigger pull in the other? I'm able to shoot my single-stack 1911 with a quality trigger press, so the single-action doesn't pose a problem. It just seems that in the last 135 days I went from having a questionable trigger press with a Glock and a good one with an M&P, to the opposite.

Anyone have any explanations why this might be the case? Keep in mind, my trigger press with other pistol platforms has improved since I switched to the Glock as well. The exception appears to be, ironically, my previously preferred platform. Has me flat perplexed.

[bountyhunter]

I once theorized that if I did ever learn to shoot a Glock well, I would probably not be able to shoot any of my other guns. Seems like you have proved that theory....

The Glock is the "anti matter" version of what I prefer in a trigger pull: light smooth take-up, a definite break point which is easy to stage. The Glock pull is a long, stacking mushy pull with no clue as to where it is going to break. I never learned to love the Glock trigger... or even tolerate it actually.

Obviously some people shoot them well. I doubt I will ever be one of them.

[fwrun]

Using a standard connector and Gen 3 G17 trigger bar in my Gen 2 G19 gives me a very light take up with a wall at about 5.5 lbs. On the Gen 3 Glock 17, the Gen 2 trigger bar with a minus connector gives it a smooth pull that continually builds until it breaks at around 4.25-4.5 lbs (no wall). On both I know exactly where they break, but I have also put thousands of rounds through them, and consequently have put myself in a position where I can't pick up and shoot an M&P without hundreds of dollars of ammo and countless hours of dry-fire invested. Pretty clear what has happened overall, I'm just curious what about my grip or trigger press makes these two systems incompatible for me, while still getting great results still w/ my 1911.

[Sac Law Man]

I tried shooting a Glock in competition, both a 17 and 34... I chanegd out the triggers, connectors, springs and installed a KKM match barrel. I thought the triggers felt pretty damn good.. The only problem was I didnt shoot them well. Accuracy poential was there, but off a rest at 25 yards, my best groups were still 4-5 inches. During matches, shooting fast splits, my hits were awful. I carry a Glock 17 on duty and carry a 19 off duty and shoot them both extremely well. All I could surmise was the guns shoot their best stock. Needless to say, I went back to my 1911's in competition.

Edited July 11, 2014 by Sac Law Man

[b1gcountry]

I shoot them fine. I am consistently the highest scoring shooter at the local uspsa matches in terms of raw scores. Not that my times are any good at all...

As far as sourcing between my Glocks and my m&p, it is the reset that always messes me up. I really get confused with my lc9 since that one has basically two resets.

Edited July 13, 2014 by b1gcountry

[twodownzero]

I hate shoot Glocks so much that it made me not want to shoot production at all, and I haven't in a long time. For whatever reason, though, I recently bought one with the LEO discount, because the 19 is a joy to carry. I can't stand shooting them, though.

[b1gcountry]

Honest question...

Why carry something you hate shooting?

[sigsauerfan]

not at all, glocks are the only pistol i've ever shot in the sport excluding a brief period with a shadow .

i also owns a tactical sport in 40 with a much sweeter trigger than my glocks in production trims , still prefer my glocks ; to me the equation remains the same wether it's a glock or a 19-2011 trigger : pistol control is all (i.e the neutral grip, fluide trigger action ,see the sights....) and my prodiie 17 with the right springs is predictable with a smooth 4.5-5 lbs break , riding the wall is easy .

however, i feel i must put more pressure in my grip than my ex shadow with a pimped trigger or my actual TS ( or SV's STI's ..... ) to get '''THAT''' control of the front and to keep the finger at the right place during recoil. i feel i add some attention to this on my prodie 17, quite the opposite with my pimped limited 35 . this one is all about instinctive trigger, very easy to slap without upsetting the gun like with sa's anyway which leads me to think i no doubts could make the transition quite easily .

true, glock triggers in stock form claims a greater ratio of focus than SA's, but the trade effort VS reliability worth it 100% for me ATM. i take it more like ; ''''...... shooting a glock very good gets you shooting elevens a breeze,.....'''' .

[Sac Law Man]

In a self defensive scenario, Glocks are hard to beat. The Glock 19 has a 15 round mag capacity, it's light weight and shoots very well. I prefer a 1911 but for everyday carryall G19 is hard to beat.

[Outbreak]

I don't like Glocks for all the reasons stated. I started buying/shooting them because I got my NRA Basic Pistol Instructor cert and figured I should be able to shoot the most popular handguns out there. Now my G19 is growing on me and I'm carrying it more often. I don't shoot it as well as any of my 1911's, but it doesn't seem to have a negative impact on my other shooting. The weird thing is I shoot the 19 worlds better than the 17.

[Moltke]

I have shot Glock pistols for years now, starting with a 34 and then 19 & 17, now back to the G34 for competition.

Out of the box many people don't like the trigger pull but they also don't take the time to learn it.

It only takes a day to learn how to shoot one proficiently (pass a qual) but it can take a lifetime to master.

If you learn a stock Glock trigger than you can probably pick up just about any semi-auto pistol and shoot it accurately.

Its also great to compete and carry with (almost) the same gun - 34 & 19.

[fwrun]

If you learn a stock Glock trigger than you can probably pick up just about any semi-auto pistol and shoot it accurately.

If that's the case why do I have a good Glock trigger press, and a terrible one when I pick up an M&P? I can shoot a glock slow-fire to its fullest potential at 25yards, but using the exact same procedure on an M&P results in the sights shooting towards 3oclock when dry firing.

[Moltke]

Be soft, be gentle, feel it out, finger it until you get it just right, then give it what it needs.

[Jayohee]

If you learn a stock Glock trigger than you can probably pick up just about any semi-auto pistol and shoot it accurately.

I'm not sure I agree with this. It would be terrible learning to go from striker fire to a DA/SA pistol. Glock triggers suck out of the box which is why you see so many people buying new connectors, trigger kits, springs, polishing etc etc.

[Moltke]

All triggers that are different actually operate the same.

Take the slack out and don't disturb the sight picture as you press through to break the shot. Even DA/SA guns... Finger it out until your results match your desired outcome, then keep doing that.

Trigger control, its what's for dinner!

[b1gcountry]

If you learn a stock Glock trigger than you can probably pick up just about any semi-auto pistol and shoot it accurately.

If that's the case why do I have a good Glock trigger press, and a terrible one when I pick up an M&P? I can shoot a glock slow-fire to its fullest potential at 25yards, but using the exact same procedure on an M&P results in the sights shooting towards 3oclock when dry firing.

Could be hand size, and the way the pistol fits you? That makes a big difference to me...

[AngryFive0]

b1g makes a good point.

If the gun fits in your hand differently then you finger could be on the trigger different or even touching the frame (pushing). Might not even know it. Make sure your grip and finger placement are where they need to be then try the trigger press.

If you are able to shoot any gun accurately then you probably have a understanding of marksmanship. I would say something mechanical (trigger press, grip, ect) is happening that you don't realize.

[Nordeste]

There is always, always, a transition in which you have to adjust from to another pistol. My "old lady", as I call my Star 30M, has a very short take-up, crisp, light (at 3 lbs or so) single action pull, with a short and positive reset. Can you ask for more?. The bad news is the long and heavy double action pull, in excess of 8 lbs. But I got used to it. I even got used to the big grips for my medium sized hands and got to shoot this pistol well.

Now I've bought a Shadow and left my cherished 30M enjoy her retirement, being well looked after and only see action occasionally. The ergos of the Shadow are just outstanding. I've got a lighter DA pull and a similarly good (not as good... longer take-up, longer overtravel, longer reset) than in the 30M, but the double taps are faster, and the shots are closer on the target. It's good news. The bad ones, it still doesn't feel right. I can see the room for improvement because I'm gripping her the way I gripped the Star, and subsequently, my shots are leaning right.

BTW, I also tend to put my shots at 9 o'clock of my POA whenever I get to shoot a Glock. And I also think the 19 is hard to beat as a carry gun. In fact, it'll be my next pistol.

[fwrun]

There isn't a handgun I shoot better than my Gen 2 glock 19. After thousands of rounds and thousands more dryfires, the pistol I used to hate is now the one I wouldn't trade for a thousand dollars. The gen 3 17 is also a pistol I shoot very well, but btf was giving me a lot of grief until two weeks ago (and multiple conversations with Apex Tactical gunsmiths). The gen 4 34 is one I will likely get rid of though, the slightly smaller grip and rounded trigger face (I prefer the serrates of the 19, on my finger it feels more flat-faced and tactile) causes me to occasionally push shots to 9oclock as well. Considering that is the only significant difference between the gen 2, 3, and 4 (yes, there are finger grooves in the 3, but while I prefer groove-less, they don't affect my grip or accuracy), I believe I've narrowed it down.

The smaller grip causes more trigger finger to rest inside the trigger guard. When I position the pad of my finger on the trigger the way I do my older pistols, it causes the excess finger to put lateral pressure on the trigger face as well as rearward pressure, sending shots left. The more rounded grip of the m&p has caused this same phenomenon- more bend in the joint of my trigger finger, and consequently a lateral and rearward press.

[3djedi]

Be soft, be gentle, feel it out, finger it until you get it just right, then give it what it needs.

my wife gave the same advice!

[b1gcountry]

Fwrun... Why not just use one of the back straps if the gen 4 is too small for you?

I don't know what btf means.

[fwrun]

BTF= Brass To Face

And regarding a gen 4 w/ backstrap:

I don't like the recoil spring assembly, I prefer the gen 3 size, and don't like the new trigger bar/housing assembly. Basically the only thing I like is the grip texture, but I find the gen 3 grip to be adequate.

Essentially all the the things except grip texture I prefer in the gen 3 (and it's the things that yield the most REAL difference in a handgun), so it makes more sense to just stick with gen 3 at this point. In other words, why keep a gen 4 that I would basically turn into a gen 3 ?

Edited August 12, 2014 by fwrun

[rdinga]

When zoning in with my Glocks, I put every thing else down and focus on the trigger. When firing more than one shot, I ride the trigger until it just resets and then I am ready for a short light pull. Love my Glocks for what they are.

I would give a left @#$ for a Glock with a 1911 trigger pull.

[Wesquire]

I use the ghost rocket connector, ZEV spring kit, and sanded the trigger parts...there is now a small take up with a smooth 3lbs break and a very short reset. There is no wall anymore, but that's how I like it...you can run it fast and not move the sights.

[fwrun]

I now have a Johnny Glocks trigger kit that is pretty impressive actually. Pull is probably around 4lbs using an extra power striker spring. Might throw in a 4.5lbs striker spring which will supposedly drop the weight to 3lbs or less. Short pretravel, almost no overtravel. It's like a 1911 trigger honestly. No Wilson Combat, but similar to a 1911 none the less. Just be prepared to spend for it.