fwrun

Two of the negative encounters stemmed from phone calls to the company by close friends of mine but aren't close with each other. In both scenarios, they were seeking guidance on the product, troubleshooting some small issues. In both situations, Buck proceeded on a verbal tirade of disrespect, name calling, and told both of them they were "wasting his time." He told me I was an idiot when I recommended he switch to Torx head screws (back when he used allen head), not because it's superior in some way, but because it what customers want. Said if I knew anything at all about engineering that I wouldn't need Torx, and that if I stripped out the screws it's because I'm an idiot (an assumption on his part, because I hadn't stripped any out, and I'm an idiot for different reasons entirely). Guess what the v4 plates come with? Torx, not allen. Another time, he told me to kill myself on social media, which is remarkably unprofessional. If he didn't sell the best MOS mounting solution on the market, I would give him none of my money. But I'm a capitalist and to an extent, I value a good product more than I value being respected online.

It's interesting that you say that, because I've had nothing but great experiences with their products. On the other hand, the circle I shoot with (including myself) has had nothing but negative experiences with the ownership. Great product. Probably the best on the market, especially the v4. Horrible management though.

Seems like an attempt to fix the "glock shooting left" problem some people with a poor trigger press get. Can't skew the front sight to the right too, so all it's going to do is shift POI to 3 o'clock... But let's see what TT has to say about it.

If I wouldn't have gotten a set of Warren sevigny's for free, I would own a set of these for my 34. I handled another shooters gun this past weekend that was outfitted w/ TTI sights, and it was more similar to the sights on my 1911. Wide enough rear for speed, but still tight enough of a sight picture for shots at 100yds+ that the front sight doesn't swim around. Very comfortable balance.

I bought a strip of MOB brand grip tape from my local board shop. A small strip on the front strap of my Springfield Range Officer, and it goes nowhere in my hand (my pistol has aggressive grips and mainspring housing, but a smooth front strap). I know it's a different gun, but the post is more about the MOB tape specifically. It's the best balance of grippyness w/out taking skin off that I've found. I've applied some to my Glock before, but I learned about progrip lotion this past weekend and will be purchasing a bottle of it- WOW that stuff works well! If you want basic grip tape, go w/ MOB and cut the pattern yourself (cheaper that way). If that's not enough, try some Progrip lotion. It surprised me.

This really depends on the amount of money you want to spend. You can't really keep a crisp wall break and drop the weight of the pull without changing the geometry of the trigger bar or using a reduce power firing pin spring. In my carry gun, I have a reduced power FP SAFETY spring, extra power trigger spring & factory connector. Nice crisp break around 5lbs for me. In my competition piece I have a Johnny Glocks trigger kit that I dropped dime for, and the more I use it, the better it gets. Can be as light as 3lbs and crisp as the trigger in my Range Officer, but I have been using an extra power firing pin spring that boosts the weight to about 4.5lbs. But that is expensive. Cheapest option is the one mentioned above (competition firing pin safety spring, extra power trigger spring, 4.5lbs firing pin spring). You'll like it, and it's a very low risk purchase. If you don't like it, just mix-match springs & connectors until you find the perfect balance. You can't have the best of everything unless you want to spend $200+ for a custom kit.

I only used a ball peen hammer, a roll of packing tape (as my armorers block) and Allen keys for my punches. Tweezers and a pocket knife might come in handy too if you need to alter the bend of the shepherds hook. Don't really need any specialized tools though.

If this idea gains some traction, which it seems to be doing, I would prefer to not use a number but instead say load to magazine capacity. My M&P 40 can load 15 but my M&P 9 can load 17. I don't want to give up those two rounds just because everyone says load 15 in the magazine. This is actually a much better idea than a 15 round "limit". The "limit" should be whatever the normal mag cap is... I had mentioned this before on the area 6 FB page as an idea, but honestly, I don't really see the need for it. It basically becomes limited minor at that point given all the mods that can be made to production guns already. If I had a vote, I'd just keep it the way it is. I'm a new guy to this sport, shot my first match a month and a half ago. But I'm having a lot of fun with the current rules, and see a lot of people around me at matches that accept/enjoy the rules as they are. I like the stage-planning aspect of production, and I feel if the mag capacity was lifted, it would radically alter the production game to simply mirror limited division.

Do you mind me asking the final cost from ZEV? I have been thinking of doing something similar w/ my 17.

If I were you I would call the match director, or talk to other people shooting the same matches you have to see if they are seeing the same thing.

Vogel is using a specially polished trigger bar, reduced power FP safety spring, an extra power trigger spring, 11lbs recoil spring, and a SS uncaptured guide rod (at least that's what he tells students, who knows what else is in there). Definitely enhanced. Maybe not "as enhanced" as other shooters' pistols, but his setup is definitely an enhancement over bone stock. If you really lookup most of the interviews he's done, he drops hints here and there about the mods he's done to his production and limited guns.

I appreciate the kind words. Noticed you weren't at Mid-Carolina this month. Hopefully I'll run in to you next time.

This was the first classifier I had ever shot in USPSA. It was also the first stage I had ever shot competitively too. Non-coincidentally, this is the lowest score I have, HF of 4.1975, roughly 39.9% on classifiercalc. Only a matter of time before my future scores drop this one.

Based on the classifiers I shot today, I should be in C class around 50% when the next update posts!

I understand the rsa. I don't understand the trigger bar and housing. My trigger bar on my gen 3 looks almost identical to my gen 4 except for the dimple. I thought they were interchangeable (I think i have swapped them, actually) The housing is smaller to fit in the grip, but other than that, are there other things that make you dislike (other than double the number of spare parts to keep around)? I have found that the dimple translates to uptake that feels "scrape-y" to me. Basically, I can feel (even a worn in Gen 4 with a professional polish job) the gen 4 trigger bar scraping the side of the frame on the uptake. It feels grittier, even with a $200+ trigger job. They ARE interchangeable, but it seems most people that are swapping them are putting the 3's into the 4 trigger housing. The slight shift in geometry that you get with the gen 4 housing also changes the angle the trigger bar contacts the connector, resulting in a heavier trigger press. This is why the "dot" connector exists (it is a halfway between a "minus" and standard connector, so the gen 4 pistols have a similar trigger weight to the gen 3). Despite my best efforts, I simply cannot achieve as good a trigger on a gen 4 as I can with a gen 3... and that is the biggest reason of all. I am a fiend for good triggers in all my firearms.

The good news is that unless there is a full ounce of mud caked into the trigger housing, that the carbon buildup in OP's gun will not make the trigger heavier. Attempting not to derail here, but a Glock isn't a precision-machined tool. Very loose tolerances that allow a lengthy timespan between cleaning. Also, there are many mechanically inclined folks that would agree a car wash and oil change after every drive to work would be over the top. Sure, you'd have a nice, clean, functioning vehicle, but one at unnecessary expense of both time and money.

It's my opinion that the method stated above is just a good way to withdraw funds from your wallet, and deposit them into the wallet of the solvent / lube manufacturer. Don't be fooled into thinking your cleaning schedule had something to do with your heavy trigger- it doesn't. And as far as cleaning the gun, you can see in your picture that the areas that are of concern only get more carbon buildup to a certain point, then it levels off. Cleaning- not important in a combat pistol like a glock. (Notice I said like a Glock, folks.) Lubricant is, however, important (but still not as CRUCIAL in a glock compared to other pistols of different design)

I know it's not .40 or 10mm, but Berry's 124gr in 9mm have less-than-thrilling accuracy in my G34 and G17, and neither do the 185gr .45 in my Springfield. Not terrible, but definitely not great- and that seems to be very consistent across all their offerings. I can get them at-cost from time to time, and that's really the only reason I occasionally use them.

I've never had to shoot my carry gun on the street. Given that I carry it every day, and never shoot it, it stands to reason that carrying it is the primary consideration and shooting it second. In a perfect world, I wouldn't carry a gun that I hate shooting, but back in this one, carrying a gun that has the features I want in a carry gun and light weight > having my favorite gun in my hand for self defense, should that situation present itself. That's probably the most well-put explanation for a question I've always asked too. I've found myself battling with that this summer- just can't take the heat like I used to, and the J-frame has been seeing more days on the belt than my G19, my favorite to shoot.

I'm not as concerned about reducing the felt recoil as much as preventing any frame or barrel link damage with a lighter weight spring. So is the consensus that there is nothing to worry about as far as damage using a 14# spring with major PF loads? I'll say this, a factory built Springfield TRP comes with like a 20# spring......or at least that is what it feels like The issue w/ the TRP isn't the recoil spring, it's the mainspring that's so heavy. The Integral locking system (ILS) uses a crazy heavy spring, making it feel very heavy to rack the slide.

I now have a Johnny Glocks trigger kit that is pretty impressive actually. Pull is probably around 4lbs using an extra power striker spring. Might throw in a 4.5lbs striker spring which will supposedly drop the weight to 3lbs or less. Short pretravel, almost no overtravel. It's like a 1911 trigger honestly. No Wilson Combat, but similar to a 1911 none the less. Just be prepared to spend for it.

BTF= Brass To Face And regarding a gen 4 w/ backstrap: I don't like the recoil spring assembly, I prefer the gen 3 size, and don't like the new trigger bar/housing assembly. Basically the only thing I like is the grip texture, but I find the gen 3 grip to be adequate. Essentially all the the things except grip texture I prefer in the gen 3 (and it's the things that yield the most REAL difference in a handgun), so it makes more sense to just stick with gen 3 at this point. In other words, why keep a gen 4 that I would basically turn into a gen 3 ?

Are you SURE you installed the Zev kit (i.e. did you buy it used or direct from the manufacturer)? There's not really anthing you can screw up on a Glock trigger installation that will make the pull that heavy, aside from just not putting the right parts in. Did you maybe install an extra-power firing pin spring? (this isn't meant to infer you are stupid. Sometimes people just make mistakes and put the wrong part back in, especially when they all look so similar!)

On jimreed's post you can see my reply on the process I took. I didn't have to fit the extractor at all, and I actually ended up with two extractors for the price of one by the time it was all said and done. Apex has great customer service, and they are the only solution I know of that completely rids these new Glock's ejection issues.

This definitely did the trick in my Gen 3 Glock 17. I initially ordered the Gen 3 FRE, and it didn't fix it at first.... I emailed Apex, and they actually called my cell I left in the message and talked specifically about what was going on. They had me take about 15 photos of my slide with barrel removed at different angles and had their 'smiths take a close look at it. They determined that my frame was on the edge of spec and that the Gen 4 FRE would resolve the problem. They let me keep the Gen 3 extractor, and sent the Gen 4 straight to my door. Fixed the issue entirely!