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Outbreak

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    Colin

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Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. I've got a 1301 Comp Pro with a Nordic extension and Nordic barrel clamp. I've got it oriented correctly, and tightened as much as I dare to. But after a 5 stage match, it's always moved forward out of the groove on the extension tube, by about 1/8". Is there a way to stop this, or am I stuck just re-positioning and re-tightening repeatedly? Thanks, Outbreak
  2. I bought a like-new STI Tactical 5.0 in 9mm about a year ago. It came with one factory 1st gen STI 140MM mag, with the spacer. Then I bought three 2nd gen STI 140mm mags with no spacer, and numbered them 1-3, the gen1 is #4. I estimate I've put about 3500rds through the gun, evenly distributed through all the mags. I clean them religiously any time they hit the ground. Usually just a mag brush, but I've started pulling a clean microfiber rag through the tubes. Recently, #1 started becoming a rattle. The rounds stick about halfway down the tube and sometimes I have to disassemble the mag to clear them out. I can tell it's coming because the fully loaded mag (20 rds) will rattle. Then the same problems started spreading to the other mags. Tonight it finally happened with the gen1 mag, which has been totally reliable until now. What am I doing wrong here? This isn't my first 2011, and I've put way more rounds through my other mags without issues. I haven't replaced springs or done anything different with my .40 mags ever, and I've been shooting them since 2010. Thanks!
  3. Return spring was replaced within the last probably 2k rounds. I've never replaced anything on the primer assembly in well over 15k since I've owned it. But I haven't really had issues with the primer mechanism, just the tubes before they get into the primer magazine. Once they're in the press they work fine. Diameter sounds like the issue. I don't have any other LPP to check with calipers, but I believe iamdann. Thanks for the help, everyone!
  4. After years of loading 9mm and .40 on my 650, I just started loading .45ACP for the first time, and so I'm using large pistol primers for the first time. A year or so ago, I got a screamin deal on Tula KVB-45 large pistol primers, so I have 5k. I am having the hardest time with these primers. I have a brand new 4-pack of Dillon tubes, plus the one that came with my press years ago. The primers are tough to pick up in the tubes, getting stuck long before it's full. They get hung up when loading into the primer magazine. I think I've only had a couple hang up in the primer magazine, which is slightly terrifying to try and clear. Due to having about 10% small primer cases mixed in, I'm getting a lot of primers in the chute, and they seem to be even worse in all these respects when I try to reuse them. The only thing these primers do properly is shoot. So my question is that I have two variables here. I'm new to LPP and never used these primers before. Are large primers more finnicky than small in a Dillon 650? Or did I buy a sleeve of junk primers?
  5. I don't like Glocks for all the reasons stated. I started buying/shooting them because I got my NRA Basic Pistol Instructor cert and figured I should be able to shoot the most popular handguns out there. Now my G19 is growing on me and I'm carrying it more often. I don't shoot it as well as any of my 1911's, but it doesn't seem to have a negative impact on my other shooting. The weird thing is I shoot the 19 worlds better than the 17.
  6. Thanks for all the help, guys. The weekend was a great success. The match ran pretty slow, but the out-of-towners enjoyed it and said they'd be back. We ended up with 4 stages, I only ended up designing one by myself, and plenty of folks helped out with targets, design, and plenty of elbow grease to make it all happen.
  7. Definitely gonna have some slug shots on paper. I'm sure we can find a prop for the long-range shots (range also has a paintball course, so we gots props!). We have range and I'm planning on a 24"x24" plate at 300-350 for score, and a 6"x6" plate at the same distance for bonus. We only have one range long enough to do that, so it will literally be the biggest stage, and likely incorporate all three guns. I estimate three stages only because I don't know if we have enough target stands, steels, walls etc for more than that. We can probably add a fourth pistol-only stage in the "special" bay, which has a target system installed. Thanks for the feedback so far. Keep it coming!
  8. My club is planning its first 3-gun match in a little over a week. The range employee that has been running the USPSA matches got tasked with this having never shot a 3-gun match. I've shot a handful (maybe 10 club matches total between about 5 clubs) and it appears I'm one of the most experienced 3-gunners in town. (I don't know if the more experienced guys are helping at all). I texted the range employee to ask if I could help in any way. He has no idea what he's doing, no stages planned, no equipment lists, nothing. I'm jumping in and trying to help because I want this first match to be a success. We have successfully started a USPSA club that now brings in out-of-town shooters, and I hope we can have similar success with 3-gun. But I've never done anything but attend and shoot 3-gun matches. So far, I've given him the following list of needs: 1. Which set of rules we're using. 2. Long-gun ditching barrels (with carpet; club has barrels) 3. Boxes to ditch pistols in (I'm going to try to keep this to a minimum and try to design most stages to finish with pistols) 4. Stakes to hold clays 5. clays 6. Racks for long-guns (i.e. pre-staging shotguns and storage of un-cased long-guns) 7. List of all equipment the range has (steels, poppers, target stands, walls ,etc) I have an idea of what we have, and I'm going to go to the range and count the trailer for myself. I think we're going to have a lot of really open stages. I haven't even started designing stages, but we have three 50x50yd bays and one rifle range that goes out to ~350. Any ideas or stage designs would be very appreciated. Tips, tricks, recommendations, criticism, condescention, etc are all welcome. I'm glad I asked when I did, but we only have about 10 days to throw together at least 3 relatively simple stages for a first club match. I need every bit of help I can get! Thanks in advance! Outbreak
  9. I have a 930 JM I use for 3g, I plug it for bird season, and a separate 930SPX under the bed. Good familiarity, but the 930JM just seems too long to swing around the house. The 18" SPX wears a light all the time.
  10. I had my one and only squib (so far) at a club match. I already had a fresh mag in the gun before I processed the "stop" call. Sure enough, it was blocked. I thanked the RO profusely, we cleared it and I went to reload mags. I was really surprised when they called my name as the last shooter on the stage, and thanked the RO again for letting me reshoot. That's the only squib in probably 10,000rds loaded on my 650.
  11. Wrong. It does not stiffen the barrel because it removes material. Any time you remove material, you remove rigidity. It would add rigidity if you ADDED the flutes, but since you start with a larger diameter barrel and REMOVE metal to creat the flutes, you have weakened it. Marginally, maybe, but it's still weaker. As for the cooling, it does cool faster but not because of surface area. It cools because at the bottom of the flute the heat has less metal to move through before it can radiate to the outside air. It still cools slower than a smaller-diameter barrel. A smaller diameter barrel would actually cool faster.
  12. I'm in NM, so it's always very dry. I keep my primers in a closet in the house, but powder is in original containers in the garage under the bench. I've been cautioned about putting powder or primers in sealed containers (like ammo cans) because it basically becomes a bomb.
  13. I got 10lbs. When my friend sent me a message it was at 700lb. 14 minutes later there was zero.
  14. Metal parts, sliding back and forth against each other, tight tolerances, high pressures. Not so different from an engine.
  15. I was using MPro7 oil for a while. I'm also a big fan of Slipstream Weapon Lube but it's kinda pricey. I just started using 2/3 Mobil1 5w30 full synthetic and 1/3 ATF. Smells a little funny, but the guns are slick.
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