lucas Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 With my 1301, I find you still need to strictly palm your shells down deep so you don't stub against the top of the loading port. That's alright until you try to quad load. I need to lower the sides more than what was done when I sent the gun out to open up the loading area. What tools do I need to do it myself and or instruction on how to? I don't want to send it out again to a gun smith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 If you think about it for a while, you will understand that the parallel port edges are not the best way to open the port. A slight slope from the front of the trigger guard to the front of the port and the side your thumb runs on a little lower, is the best solution. Gunsmiths don't do it this way because it has to be done by hand and takes more time and care than slapping it on the mill for a one pass. A die grinder to do the roughing, then a sanding drum on same, or a dremel. When it is smooth, try loading with it, and make sure everything is correct. Then 400 grit wet sanding until smooth followed by polish with automotive grade rubbing compound on a felt, dremel or die grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Gunsmiths don't do it this way because it has to be done by hand and takes more time and care than slapping it on the mill for a one pass. all gunsmiths? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Just a quick thought on the mirror bright finishes. For the folks who won't believe what I'm about to say take this time to perform This simple test. Go into your bathroom and slide your dry hand down the mirror.....now get your hand wet kind of like when your outside on a hot day....lets say kinda like at a match. You will find your hand wants to stick to that nice shiny surface and kind of just smeer along...Hmmmm!!!!! All interfaces between hand and loading port/lifter should be bead blasted! The slightly rough surface will allow a sweat dampened hand to glide over the area. This slight roughness breaks the surface tension of the fluid and your loading will be much smoother. Think I'm wrong? Go do the experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Gunsmiths don't do it this way because it has to be done by hand and takes more time and care than slapping it on the mill for a one pass. all gunsmiths? Sorry for the generalization...should have said most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 All interfaces between hand and loading port/lifter should be bead blasted! The slightly rough surface will allow a sweat dampened hand to glide over the area. Agreed, but a dry hand over the polished surface sure does feel good. Some guys use ProGrip, Talc, Babypowder etc. to get the best performance, but that sure is not Redneck rated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 I can not imagine a hand dusted with talc grabbing a plastic shell. I really can't think of any slicker combo. That reminds me of a greased pig!!! That might explain all the shell showers I see sometimes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 We only polish to 400 grit, and final polish is done in the direction of hand movement. IMO, anything 600 grit and beyond does actually feel.....stickier, for lack of a better description. Bead blasting gets pretty scuffed looking in short order, so we don't. The 400 grit is easier for the user to touch up, and stays looking nice a little longer. Doesn't mean it is better, just generates fewer complaints from the few competitors that try to keep their guns looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Sounds like I need professional help,dang it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ming the Merciless Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Jesse Tischauser posted a nice 3 part series of videos on Youtube showing how to open the loading port. Search Youtube for "Opening the loading port on Stoeger M3000" since I can't get the links to work here. Also with the 1301 you'll have to be careful of the serial number on the bolt release side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Don't be afraid of it, Lucas. As said above, Youtube is your friend. Take your time, files are preferred over a dremel unless you are proficient and careful with that tool. Outline your finished size with masking tape to protect the finish. 1" strips of abrasive paper from 80 grit to 240 grit will make blending easier before you go to wet-or-dry 320 and then 400. WATCH OUT FOR THE SERIAL NUMBER! We machine the port deeper on the non-serial numbered side of the Stoeger as well, and use a 45 degree chamfer cutter to profile the edges. The blends and radii must still be done by hand tho, all we can do by machine is rough it to the essential shape so they all come out consistent. The trick is still in the hand-work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Here is a little tutorial on the VM: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166311 Same theory, except you need to be careful of the shell latch pins, serial numbers etc. based on which platform you are working on. Tom is right though, doing them right is mostly handwork and patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I've always wondered; along with opening up the loading port; doesn't the original factory shell lifter need to be lengthen, becaused you've opened up the loading port , or would that be a different issu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 If you think about it for a while, you will understand that the parallel port edges are not the best way to open the port. A slight slope from the front of the trigger guard to the front of the port and the side your thumb runs on a little lower, is the best solution. Gunsmiths don't do it this way because it has to be done by hand and takes more time and care than slapping it on the mill for a one pass. While the mill cutter generally travels parallel to the table its easy enough to set the receiver for a sloping cut when desired (and I just happened to be working on a 1301 this afternoon when the topic started) Before cutting: After cutting: The trick is still in the hand-work. Aint that the truth. A few more minutes spent blending curves and transitions, smoothing out the cutter or file marks and taping to protect the edges pays off in a result you take take pride in I've always wondered; along with opening up the loading port; doesn't the original factory shell lifter need to be lengthen, becaused you've opened up the loading port , or would that be a different issu Really depends on whether you move the front edge of the port forward (to create more space for a digit to get trapped in) and if your style of loading lends itself to hanging between the lifter and mag tube opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammerhead Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) A mill definitely can speed up the process but is not a must. I have one and decided not to bother and did my VM by hand. Careful use of sanding drums on a Dremel, a little touch up with a good flat file, and then some buffing with Dremel's"EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs" can product excellent results. If you fancy yourself a handyman, I'd go so far to say its almost idiot proof if you don't get carried away http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=511E http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=512E I agree with Kurt on the finish. I initially took mine to a mirror polish and figured out in 2 practice loads that it was a mistake. Went back with the 280 or the 320 buff (sorry can't remember which) and gave it more of a brushed finish and it works much better. But if you want to let someone else do it, then I can vouch for Mr. Rose's work. Edited July 7, 2014 by Hammerhead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbrowndog Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 There may be "tutorials" on you tube by some folks that claim to know everything, however a lot of shotguns have been ruined by those folks as well. Just ask their gunsmiths and those that know them, lot of folks THINK they know what they're doing,......choose your source for gun butchering carefully. the difference between ok and too much is a very fine line. Go slow, leave the power tools alone unless you KNOW what you're doing, and remember to ask the right people for advice, those folks normally do not mind giving a helping hand, or taking a phone call. Trapr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Theres this saying I just saw on the web somewhere, cant remember where, that is totally appropriate, and the reason there is so much bad info out there. something like "the Effort to refute Bulls&^$ on the internet is an order of magnitude greater than it was to originally write it" -aint no body got time fo dat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thats not true Mike! You see it is just...ahhh.......ooops...... AH HA!!!! I see what you mean!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUBL Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Sorry Mike......You are totally way off base here..... Just like the commercial says......if it's on the internet, then it must true. AND....yes, Kurt really IS a french model Theres this saying I just saw on the web somewhere, cant remember where, that is totally appropriate, and the reason there is so much bad info out there. something like "the Effort to refute Bulls&^$ on the internet is an order of magnitude greater than it was to originally write it" -aint no body got time fo dat. Best thing that can be said is......OBSERVE FUNCTION.....go slow and take a little at a time. Edited July 8, 2014 by TRUBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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