929's showing up anywhere?

[Gregg K]

Toothguy or anybody else who has had this type of work done...any recommended shops for setting back the barrel, recutting the forcing cone, etc.?

Warren Moore (Toolguy) is the first one that comes to mind for someone that knows how to do this.

[Toolguy]

Thanks for the good thoughts Gregg! I have done my own revo work since about 1975. Done dozens as I am always experimenting to find what works best. I have butchered my share of parts during the learning curve along the way. I only do my own guns or show someone else how to do theirs.

Gregg is right - none of them are race ready out of the box, but most are a very good base unit to start from. Every gun is an individual and must be tuned and adjusted as such.

Edited June 27, 2014 by Toolguy

[10mmdave]

Have one now I'm fixing/working on, man.... you don't get a lot for your money these days

What's with the sand blasted internals ? And flash chromed MIM hammer and trigger ??

I guess the MIM parts work as intended but jeez, for the money you spend on one of these things

I would have hoped to see better.

Cylinder chamfering ah okay, break the sharp edges a little more than usual I guess.

[Tom Freeman]

Six weeks and about 3,000-4,000 rounds later.

Very happy.

[seanc]

Have one now I'm fixing/working on, man.... you don't get a lot for your money these days

What's with the sand blasted internals ? And flash chromed MIM hammer and trigger ??

I guess the MIM parts work as intended but jeez, for the money you spend on one of these things

I would have hoped to see better.

Cylinder chamfering ah okay, break the sharp edges a little more than usual I guess.

Gonna run it at a7 Dave?

[Gregg K]

What's with the sand blasted internals ?

Sand blasting the internals is not the bad part. Mine still had some of the blasting media floating around in the lock works. You would have thought that they could have blown it out before assembling.

Edited June 29, 2014 by Gregg K

[10mmdave]

Have one now I'm fixing/working on, man.... you don't get a lot for your money these days

What's with the sand blasted internals ? And flash chromed MIM hammer and trigger ??

I guess the MIM parts work as intended but jeez, for the money you spend on one of these things

I would have hoped to see better.

Cylinder chamfering ah okay, break the sharp edges a little more than usual I guess.

Gonna run it at a7 Dave?

Nope, not mine, worked on it for a friend.

I'm still on the wait list for A7

[scootertrash]

How early did you guys with the 929 order? Was it at the Shot Show time frame? I put an order in a week after the part number came out (early Feb) and was curious if I would even see one of these!

Thanks!

Mark

[Tom Freeman]

How early did you guys with the 929 order? Was it at the Shot Show time frame? I put an order in a week after the part number came out (early Feb) and was curious if I would even see one of these!

Thanks!

Mark

I think I ordered a couple in mid to late December.

[seanc]

so you guys that are shooting your 929's, i have a couple ammo questions.

I have first hand seen 1 929 shooting completely bengign production load based on n320. The primers were completely smashed.

I'm hearing from a friend who's seen another 929 in action, same thing, with otherwise known production loads primers were completely flat.

Anyone else observing flat primers?

Also recently reading a friends post that he is seeing bullets pulling out under recoil. Undertand there are other reasons but curious.

and finally, extraction with different loads? all ok or some better than others?

[DougCarden]

Sean,

I would first hit all the chambers with a finish reamer so they are all the same.....we all remember the 625 fiasco.....Then make sure you don't bell the case anymore than you need to loading, and finally crimp the case more than you would in an auto. You have different things going on in a Revo than you do an auto. As long as your forcing cone is good an concentric you should be fine. Rob Leatham told me that he got better accuracy in his 625 loads using a roll crimp. I have not had time to try it, but I know in short colt if you don't use a heavy crimp you will have bullets pulling, regardless of the size of the bullet. It is something to try anyway....Let me know if any of it helps.....

DougC

[pskys2]

Bullet pull will happen with a Revolver, the heavier the load the worse it is. With my 45 acp I also roll crimped with Plated and even some jacketed the Roll crimp worked good with 185 jswc's in gap brass for a minor load, don't laugh the combo reloads about as good as anything I've tried.

With the 38 Short Colt I tried roll crimping, but it just doesn't work as well. Has a tendency to bulge the case, and even collapse them. It still worked ok for the Plated bullets, but I've not had any luck with them for accuracy. I ended up settling on a heavy Taper Crimp, and with Jacketed and Lead or Coated (I use Bayou's) I'm not having any issues with bullet pull. To heavy of a taper with Plated can pierce the Plating though. And some have reported backing off of the crimp on them and having better accuracy.

So with the 9mm, you might not have much luck with roll crimping as there are not many 355 bullets with cannelures, which make for a good roll crimp. But you should be ok with a heavier taper crimp than you would normally use in an auto. As for the flattened primers, could be headspace issues. If you try shooting the 9mm rounds without a moon clip, you might see that also as the case could sit a bit deeper than normal depending on oal, while with a moon clip you actually headspace off of the rim. Which could also cause issues depending on case rim and extractor groove dimensions.

[Guest]

I'll +3 the heavy crimp. Been playing with the .38 mid ( cut down 38 specials which is similar to the .38 super). First go around I used Clay Dot and the normal amount of crimp that I use with my major .38 super loads used in an autoloader (Lee FCD taper die - contact with case mouth + 1/2 turn) and had several bullets back out in the chambers under recoil (what a mess). Before loading the next batch I talked with revolver shooter at a match and he said he used a very heavy crimp, so next batch I upped the crimp a lot (Lee FCD taper die - contact with case mouth + 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turn). No more backing out, but the crimp is certainly biting into the bullet. I need to experiment a little more to see if I can back off the crimp some and not have bullet pull out, and if so maybe improve accuracy some.

When i was working up a load I noticed with Federal SPP I'd saw minor flattening where Winchester or Tula the primers were unscathed with the same bullet/charge weight/OAL. But, my gun won't set off winchester or Tula reliably so I use Federals.

[seanc]

Sean,

I would first hit all the chambers with a finish reamer so they are all the same.....we all remember the 625 fiasco.....Then make sure you don't bell the case anymore than you need to loading, and finally crimp the case more than you would in an auto. You have different things going on in a Revo than you do an auto. As long as your forcing cone is good an concentric you should be fine. Rob Leatham told me that he got better accuracy in his 625 loads using a roll crimp. I have not had time to try it, but I know in short colt if you don't use a heavy crimp you will have bullets pulling, regardless of the size of the bullet. It is something to try anyway....Let me know if any of it helps.....

DougC

Thanks Doug, I don't have one yet but have one on order, and seeing the issues being reported is driving my curiosity.

[seanc]

I'll +3 the heavy crimp. Been playing with the .38 mid ( cut down 38 specials which is similar to the .38 super). First go around I used Clay Dot and the normal amount of crimp that I use with my major .38 super loads used in an autoloader (Lee FCD taper die - contact with case mouth + 1/2 turn) and had several bullets back out in the chambers under recoil (what a mess). Before loading the next batch I talked with revolver shooter at a match and he said he used a very heavy crimp, so next batch I upped the crimp a lot (Lee FCD taper die - contact with case mouth + 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turn). No more backing out, but the crimp is certainly biting into the bullet. I need to experiment a little more to see if I can back off the crimp some and not have bullet pull out, and if so maybe improve accuracy some.

When i was working up a load I noticed with Federal SPP I'd saw minor flattening where Winchester or Tula the primers were unscathed with the same bullet/charge weight/OAL. But, my gun won't set off winchester or Tula reliably so I use Federals.

It seems like something else has to be going on. My long colts with bayous and clays experience zero slippage. The bell getting put on them is the DAA die in a dlillon dispenser which it seems to me opens up the whole neck slightly, with a simple crimp from a regular dillon 38 special die to knock of the tiny flare at the edge.

These hold fine as do berrys with 4.8 of n320 behind them.

[Tom Freeman]

All my primers are flat. Even when running at a 120pf ICORE load that wont cycle my 1911 with a 8 lb recoil spring.

I am guessing it is from the tapered case moving back under recoil.

I run a pretty average crimp and I am not getting any bullet pull on 147 and 165gn jacketed and plated bullets. I have some 95gn round nose jacketed bullets coming in. Time will tell how they work out.

[Guest]

seanc - thanks for the feedback. I haven't tried using a roll-crimp die yet but after reading your post it seems like it would be worth trying.

The load I have been using for the 38 Mid (Clay Dot @ 3.5gr, 160gr RN lead, 1.330 OAL) shoots soft and is very clean, but is not steller in the accuracy department.

[seanc]

seanc - thanks for the feedback. I haven't tried using a roll-crimp die yet but after reading your post it seems like it would be worth trying.

The load I have been using for the 38 Mid (Clay Dot @ 3.5gr, 160gr RN lead, 1.330 OAL) shoots soft and is very clean, but is not steller in the accuracy department.

Seems like roll crimp is a good place to start.

It wasn't even occurring to me that 9mm dies are taper crimping in most cases and a 38 spec die is roll crimping until I re-read Doug's post.

[mikeAZ]

I use a moderate tapper crimp. Because that's all I have in powder, I'm using Tightgroup and the primers are flat or dished depending on the grains used. (This has not been a problem so far). I'm using the 9mm Lee "U" (.001 undersize) x Dillon 650 but then, I've used these Lee "U" dies in the 1st. stage for years and for all pistol calibers I shoot. (Lube the cases, life is a lot easier). I had the moon clips made locally for Federal +P nickel brass..(happy camper)...(trust me, all 9mm is NOT the same!). I was somewhat reluctant to do much to the new 929 but I bit the bullet (Ha, Ha). Got some good imput from Gregg K and I would get a hard trigger pull after only about 2/3 moon clips through the 929, (cyl. was dragging?).. The forcing cone finish was not as square/smooth as I would have thought from the S&W PC anyhow?, so I used the Brownells .560 cutter and squared up the face very very slightly, and added a .003 cylinder shim. I was experimenting with Bayou .358 x 160 bullets in 9mm cases. Due to the bullet shape and length I've had to run these short to fit in the 9mm case gauge, I think I'll just stick with 147 9mm bullets, either Billy's/Bayou's/ Frontiers/ or Montana Golds. Never got to the "magic" 5 # trigger, she goes bang all the time with Federal 100 primers @ 6#'s. What's with S&W???.. Must have a huge backlog on these revolvers, just a guess probably didn't think there was a market waiting???..(Jerry probably chuckles...) Maybe Ruger will wake up?... The market is there!.

Edited July 8, 2014 by mike NM

[Gregg K]

Sean,

I would first hit all the chambers with a finish reamer so they are all the same.....we all remember the 625 fiasco.....

I don't think you want to run your finish reamer on a Ti cylinder. I'm pretty sure it would wreck your reamer.

[seanc]

Sean,

I would first hit all the chambers with a finish reamer so they are all the same.....we all remember the 625 fiasco.....

I don't think you want to run your finish reamer on a Ti cylinder. I'm pretty sure it would wreck your reamer.

I'm no machinist, though I do pretend to be one with a dremel, but i would imagine a reamer is made of tool steel which are very very hard alloys even compared to ti...

Edited July 8, 2014 by seanc

[Toolguy]

I did that on a .40 Ti cylinder and wrecked a $200 custom reamer. The Ti cylinders have some kind of hard coating on them, at least this one did. I ended up having to use a carbide reamer. The Ti will cut fairly well without the coating.

[seanc]

I did that on a .40 Ti cylinder and wrecked a $200 custom reamer. The Ti cylinders have some kind of hard coating on them, at least this one did. I ended up having to use a carbide reamer. The Ti will cut fairly well without the coating.

blech, sorry to hear that.

It did just occur to me right before I read your post that the Ti cylinders have some kind of coating on the to prevent erosion. Obviously taking a cutter to the thing is going to remove that coating...

[wheelie]

A little more on the bullet slipping, crimping discussion.

Sometimes more crimp will do the job but more often what you need is tighter grip on the bullet. There are several ways to get this. First way is to select the brass for thickness. Some brands will be thicker than others. the thick cases will hold the bullets better. Second, use a smaller expander. Even .0005" smaller will make a difference. Third, measure your bullets with a real micrometer. A little fatter bullet may cure the problem. But you won't know until you measure.