There's gotta be a faster better way to swage bulk brass

[XxWoodsHunterxX]

So I know you have options but with an abundance of 223 brass and a dillon swager this is way to time consuming. I cant see buying a 1050 just for processing, or wait, is it really worth it. I see some have used the G.S. Customs swager but is voiding your warranty really worth it and does it work flawlessly. The reviews I've seen said 50/50 chance, owner says flawless but that's expected. I see rcbs has one but still to time consuming. I guess my question is do I sell my 550 to fund the 1050 or does anyone have a better option for swaging brass that will work

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[Miranda]

... 'Tis your money.

consider de-prime and swage in a single stage press?

my cheap soul keeps me from throwing out my crimped 9mm brass.

I have been using a cutting tool. buuuut that takes time.

lets face it, time the the real consideration.

you should only have to swage once? per case.

miranda

[Baer45]

So I know you have options but with an abundance of 223 brass and a dillon swager this is way to time consuming. I cant see buying a 1050 just for processing, or wait, is it really worth it. I see some have used the G.S. Customs swager but is voiding your warranty really worth it and does it work flawlessly. The reviews I've seen said 50/50 chance, owner says flawless but that's expected. I see rcbs has one but still to time consuming. I guess my question is do I sell my 550 to fund the 1050 or does anyone have a better option for swaging brass that will work

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All I can say is I liked my first S1050 so much I bought two more. I have one set up for 308, 9mm and 45acp. I run tons a of military crimped brass without ever having ONE problem. As I shoot a lot of long distance in 308 and chase accuracy, I end up with a lot of Black Hills brass which is crimped and I get match accuracy without having to go back and clean pockets ever...other then tumbling....I'm a big proponent.... One tip: if you go with a 1050 when you set you swaging die, take a hack saw or other system and cut one piece of brass right done the middle. This makes setting the swage die a breeze and once it's set, it stays that way....using a cut case eliminates guessing....good luck..C

[XxWoodsHunterxX]

... 'Tis your money.

consider de-prime and swage in a single stage press?

my cheap soul keeps me from throwing out my crimped 9mm brass.

I have been using a cutting tool. buuuut that takes time.

lets face it, time the the real consideration.

you should only have to swage once? per case.

miranda

Only once but with multiple thousands of brass to swage it's time consuming. Something I don't have enough of especially with toddlers running around.

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[seanc]

So I know you have options but with an abundance of 223 brass and a dillon swager this is way to time consuming. I cant see buying a 1050 just for processing, or wait, is it really worth it. I see some have used the G.S. Customs swager but is voiding your warranty really worth it and does it work flawlessly. The reviews I've seen said 50/50 chance, owner says flawless but that's expected. I see rcbs has one but still to time consuming. I guess my question is do I sell my 550 to fund the 1050 or does anyone have a better option for swaging brass that will work

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

All I can say is I liked my first S1050 so much I bought two more. I have one set up for 308, 9mm and 45acp. I run tons a of military crimped brass without ever having ONE problem. As I shoot a lot of long distance in 308 and chase accuracy, I end up with a lot of Black Hills brass which is crimped and I get match accuracy without having to go back and clean pockets ever...other then tumbling....I'm a big proponent.... One tip: if you go with a 1050 when you set you swaging die, take a hack saw or other system and cut one piece of brass right done the middle. This makes setting the swage die a breeze and once it's set, it stays that way....using a cut case eliminates guessing....good luck..C

Can you explain the cut brass a little more? I have a 1050 and just recently bought the 9mm conversion, another tool head, etc...so i could abandon loading 9mm on my 650 exactly because of primer pockets.

[Baer45]

Take a 9 mm case and cut it in two pieces from top to bottom which gives you a sectional view of its interior. Place one section in your swaying station. As you adjust the tip of the swagger up into the primer pocket you can now see exactly how deep it is too give the best sewage. This runs equally try for the sewage rod that comes down from the top. It allows you to see that it comes down just to the pocket for stability and no further...

Hope that makes it clearer for you. Before I has to adjust by feel and trial and error. This removes that frustration from the occasion....c

[Baer45]

Just noticed spell check did a number on swage and not sewage....

[Warpdrv]

Here ya go - this should make quicker work of that swager of yours you already have.....

[Baer45]

The video would not play for me. That looked like the regular swage He already has that does one case ata time and well....is there now a way to use it progressively? I have one and loved it prior to 1050....

[bishop414]

The video would not play for me. That looked like the regular swage He already has that does one case ata time and well....is there now a way to use it progressively? I have one and loved it prior to 1050....

Video shows a "spring" mod that allows the case to auto eject from the swager. Can't seem to find it, but there is another video showing similar mods with both auto eject and moving the target brass into position. Only thing user needs to do is load the brass on the stem.

Good luck.

[The Law]

So I know you have options but with an abundance of 223 brass and a dillon swager this is way to time consuming. I cant see buying a 1050 just for processing, or wait, is it really worth it. I see some have used the G.S. Customs swager but is voiding your warranty really worth it and does it work flawlessly. The reviews I've seen said 50/50 chance, owner says flawless but that's expected. I see rcbs has one but still to time consuming. I guess my question is do I sell my 550 to fund the 1050 or does anyone have a better option for swaging brass that will work

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

All I can say is I liked my first S1050 so much I bought two more. I have one set up for 308, 9mm and 45acp. I run tons a of military crimped brass without ever having ONE problem. As I shoot a lot of long distance in 308 and chase accuracy, I end up with a lot of Black Hills brass which is crimped and I get match accuracy without having to go back and clean pockets ever...other then tumbling....I'm a big proponent.... One tip: if you go with a 1050 when you set you swaging die, take a hack saw or other system and cut one piece of brass right done the middle. This makes setting the swage die a breeze and once it's set, it stays that way....using a cut case eliminates guessing....good luck..C

Agreed. The cross-section cut case really helps dial in the swager in eliminates a lot of the priming problems associated with a 1050 (in my experience, have several 1050s). I also suggest a set of go/no-go gauges for primer pockets.

[seanc]

Take a 9 mm case and cut it in two pieces from top to bottom which gives you a sectional view of its interior. Place one section in your swaying station. As you adjust the tip of the swagger up into the primer pocket you can now see exactly how deep it is too give the best sewage. This runs equally try for the sewage rod that comes down from the top. It allows you to see that it comes down just to the pocket for stability and no further...

Hope that makes it clearer for you. Before I has to adjust by feel and trial and error. This removes that frustration from the occasion....c

It does. I haven't looked at the press but will be doing this.

Thanks for the tip.

[noylj]

If you need to swage a lot of brass as a recurring activity, I can't think of anything better than the 1050.

Re: cutting a case in two--some of us simply don't have a saw/vise/patience or whatever to do this.

All you should need are the Dillon instructions and some cases that need to be swaged.

[polizei1]

I'm interesting in this as well...best solution so far seems to be the GS Swager that I can put on my 650. I WISH I could afford a 1050, but I can't. My 650 with case/bullet feeder was expensive enough!

Edited June 4, 2014 by polizei1

[jmorris]

If the cost doesn't scare you just get one. Nothing in the price range that's works as fast.

Here is a video of one sizing/depriming brass with an autodrive I added to it.

It has a 3 ph motor and a VFD so the speed can be adjusted faster to process and then slow it down for loading.

[XxWoodsHunterxX]

If the cost doesn't scare you just get one. Nothing in the price range that's works as fast.

Here is a video of one sizing/depriming brass with an autodrive I added to it.

It has a 3 ph motor and a VFD so the speed can be adjusted faster to process and then slow it down for loading.

thats where it's at.

What's the malfunction rate with a vid like that at high speed for processing

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[jmorris]

I adjusted the speed to where it was in that video before I processed a gallon of 40, no issues but it was also machine sorted before fed through the press.

Loading is much slower. I actually run them at a slower cycle time than I can run manually (5min/100). I just gain the time back because they don't stop and I don't have to be there, except to load the primer tube and collators.

I adjusted the speed to where it was in that video before I processed a gallon of 40, no issues but it was also machine sorted before fed through the press.

Loading is much slower. I actually run them at a slower cycle time than I can run manually. I just gain the time back because they don't stop and I don't have to be there, except to load the primer tube and collators.

Edited June 5, 2014 by jmorris

[slavex]

You did the cut at the back of the base to allow it to run completely through? I think Angus did a similar mod. Curious as to what that motor cost. Also curious as to waht it would take to convert it back to a manual press for loading?

Oh, anyone have a pic of what the swaging rod should look like in new or good condition, I think mine is worn out.

Edited June 5, 2014 by slavex

[jmorris]

That is Craig's kit to convert a Super pretty much back into an RL and make it rotary. Yes, you cut the back out, also have to machine the frame for clearence.

The motor cost less than the VFD on eBay, ~$60.

It's a lot more work to convert back to manual than the PW and as I pointed out reduces the stroke of a super back to that of an RL so .223 is as long as you can load.

[DWFAN]

can you size .223 at that speed?

[pitvpr]

I'm interesting in this as well...best solution so far seems to be the GS Swager that I can put on my 650. I WISH I could afford a 1050, but I can't. My 650 with case/bullet feeder was expensive enough!

true statement,

[jmorris]

can you size .223 at that speed?

I have not but I don't see why not. I have loaded them at a rate of 2400/hr on a 1050.

Without any motor on an old flimsy bench.

Edited June 5, 2014 by jmorris

[Brassaholic13]

I'm converting .300 BLK on a Forcht Driven (3-phase/VFD by me) Super 1050 at the rate of 1800/hr.

[jmorris]

With what trimmer? Have a video?

[Brassaholic13]

Rt1200... No video.

The trick is using the right cutter. Dillon sends a cutter for steel with no chip breaker. If you feed it too fast, it leaves a crappy cut and gnarly burrs on it.

Edited June 7, 2014 by Brassaholic13