BOOM Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Has anyone succeed in eliminating all the pre-travel of a factory Glock trigger while still keeping all 3 of the safeties functioning. With gunsmiths like Chariie Vanek, and Johnny Glock clams of that's what there selling (a modified factory trigger). I thought its possible for the do it yourself-ers to drill, tap, and install a few small Allen screws on there own trigger housing, and there trigger pads accomplishing pretty much the same thing. I would like to see what exactly you've done The key issue for me is in keeping all 3 of safeties functioning without the pre-travel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 (edited) It may be easier to just order a DK trigger bar or a Vanek trigger housing but with a little trial and errow you can drill the holes and install the screws. There is not much room for error so purchase several trigger housings. Edited May 5, 2014 by JBP55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 You can not eliminate all of the pre travel and maintain the 3 safeties the design of the GLOCK is to maintain striker travel to complete the mechanism. If one wants a single action pistol then they need to buy a single action pistol like the XD/XDM etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Exactly: I'm looking for those here who have drilled, and taped there own, and wouldn't mind explaining where and what they done. Having the OEM parts, and buying few inexpensive Allen screws.with some time can be its own reward. Charlie Vanek ; sells his trigger housing with both pre-travel, and over-travel adjustment screws shipped is $42.00 DK triggers ; sells the trigger bar alone for $75.00 shipped . All of these parts I'm sure are worth the money. But aren't these modified Factory Parts.? Maybe someone here using these parts wouldn't mind opening up there gun and share what you see different over the original OEM parts, and Pic's would be great. Thanks Up Front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3djedi Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I have the DK custom and pre-travel is extremely minimal. This is the best you can ask for on a glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I have the DK custom and pre-travel is extremely minimal. This is the best you can ask for on a glock. Thanks 3d! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowdyb Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 another option i have seen is people putting a screw into the frame, allowing the trigger bar to only go so far forward. while this isn't pre travel it definitely is a way to make a 'short reset trigger' in your glock and not have anything visible from the outside. just not tons of material there, so proceed with caution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkrad1935 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Also - I ordered a trigger and it had too much pre travel taken out and the drop safety didn't fiction as a result. My guess is 90% of folks wouldn't even catch that. But the trigger bar has to go forward far enough so the cruciform rests in the ledge of the trigger housing. The ledge keeps the bar from dropping and disengaging the striker. There is at least one big trigger company out there that sells the trigger where this no longer works. On the other hand I have two Vanek triggers and they function as designed. Yes I could do the work myself now that I have seen how and what. But Charlie and others deserve to make a living! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Charlie is a Great guy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Pre-travel in Glocks has been a long going problem. I'm trying to help solve problem with this post. Other post here have sought to reduce trigger pull with 25 cent trigger jobs, and perceived felt recoil with spring changes Everyone enjoys that information now don't you ? If you feel guilty about not paying $100 plus dollars for 2 Allen screws and removing a little material I can understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 You can do it yourself, but you probably need some kind of jig to be able to drill the holes straight in the trigger assy so you can tap for the set screws. Most of the smiths scallop a dish in the trigger bar portion that raises the safety plunger. This mod brings the trigger closer to the frame, but you have to be careful. A lot of the smiths trim the safety tab in the trigger and I believe this is an external mod and not legal. Some smiths also move the pins in the trigger to give you more of a mechanical advantage, but this is also a external mod. As has been mentioned the more pre travel you remove you start getting towards the threshold of disabling the drop safety. I tried a couple of the triggers that remove pre travel and found my drop safety wasn't functional so I just said screw it and went back to the factory assy But I do have the over travel set screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal82 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Having been down this road before with my own trigger there are threads on this forum that talk about these mods and what is needed. However it's not for the faint of heart, I went through a couple trigger bars to figure it out and get it right. That being said it's easier to leave the pre-travel and learn to prep/stage the trigger. You can remove some pre-travel without having to trim back the other safety's, this is what I do with an over-travel stop. Some of these mods are not legal in IDPA SSP or USPSA Production devisions. I recently felt a couple DK triggers at the Alabama State IDPA, they were awesome! You can set it up to have minimal pre-travel or however you would like. Having done the work myself and knowing how, I would highly recommend you get the DK trigger. Save yourself the time, money and frustration and focus on the shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Pre-travel in Glocks has been a long going problem. I'm trying to help solve problem with this post. Other post here have sought to reduce trigger pull with 25 cent trigger jobs, and perceived felt recoil with spring changes Everyone enjoys that information now don't you ? If you feel guilty about not paying $100 plus dollars for 2 Allen screws and removing a little material I can understand. Where do you buy your parts? For that amount of money you can buy 3 new trigger housings with the modification done by Charlie Vanek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks Rooster; Those are exactly the things I'm trying to discuss here reshaping parts along with adding set screws. I'm almost sure that the bump or (what ever its called) on the trigger bar that depresses the safety plunger needs to be reshaped so that it doesn't engage the safety plunger as quickly also the trigger pad safety need to be trimmed. To me just adding Allen screws to the trigger housing will disable the safety plunger because the trigger bar bump will end up ridding on the safety plunger as your reduce the pre-travel. I have talk with Charile several times He is a great guy he explained to me that all his parts are modified OEM Glock parts and that just doing one modification like adding his trigger housing most likely will not remove much of the pre-travel with out disengaging one or more of the safeties, and that he does not have the time to do his super trigger any longer. If you go to Vanek home page he sells every part you need (except) the trigger bar (huh ?) DK does sell a trigger bar at $65.00 plus ship, but I'm sure it will need his other parts to reduce pre-travel and have it running right. Through the experience of others here WHO post what they've learned I buy my parts, springs, connectors,safety plungers from the different vendors here who support our sport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Might need to go re read my website lol. My trigger bar is the heart of my system I do not use an Overtravel stop in the ejector housing so to answer you post NO all you need is the trigger bar to have the same adjustability that is in every kit I sell. Yes buying the trigger bar alone means you have to make it work with your parts but it is there for those that like to tinker and use parts they already have. With the kits I match everything together to work properly and test fit in a donor gun for that exact purpose and then send it out. And I support the sports. Discounts to JR shooters which are the future of these sports and I'll be adding prize certs to our local large matches here and possible to the SE ProAm and have Team Shooters Edited May 6, 2014 by dskinsler83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thanks DK I'd like to ask you is the trigger bar your selling a modified OEM Glock part.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) Yes sir That's how we stay production legal Edited May 6, 2014 by dskinsler83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thank You DK; Would you agree with me that the bump on the trigger bar that engages the safety plunger would need to be reshaped or set back more so that it does not fully engage the plunger safety as quickly ? Doing this first would allow you to reduce the pre-travel and still have all 3 safeties working . Provided you trimmed the trigger pad safety, and added a set screw to either the trigger pad, or trigger housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Thank You DK; Would you agree with me that the bump on the trigger bar that engages the safety plunger would need to be reshaped or set back more so that it does not fully engage the plunger safety as quickly ? Doing this first would allow you to reduce the pre-travel and still have all 3 safeties working . Provided you trimmed the trigger pad safety, and added a set screw to either the trigger pad, or trigger housing. Go to his website and see the answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Well duh!! Thanks JBP55; I SEE Very cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 What's wrong with a little Pre-Travel ? Does it slow you down.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 I've learned to preset a trigger from a draw; do I like it (NO) (1)You can have a surprise ignition; it happens I know (2) Its one more thing to think about; Stay focus on other thing (3) If you like pre-travel great; Everyone shoots different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOHNNYBOSS Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hey BOOM check your PM I left some vital information for you. I haven't learned how to upload photos so there is a request for you to follow. I'll show you exactly how to do it 100% safeties in tack and the ZEV style scallop cut into the vertical extension not completely necessary but it looks like your getting your moneys worth. There is a way to make this a single action trigger but it's a process I only reserve for few it was not that hard to figure out you just have to have the whole gun and know your stuff- but then again I've tuned over the thousand mark I can say I feel like I have an actual relationship with this firearm it's odd to say but true Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3djedi Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 You can turn a glock into single action? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOHNNYBOSS Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Oh yes but like I said it is a reserved request I don't agree to do often Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now