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Frog Lube in Chambers?


ihocky2

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Has anyone tried applying Frog Lube to the inside of their chambers? I know normally you don't want any oil or anything inside your chambers because it causes the cases to stick until enough has burned off. With the Frog Lube being more of a microscopic lube I wasn't sure how it would react. I've started using it on the exterior of my revolvers to make cleaning easier, just a quick wipe with a towel and they are cleaned. I was wondering if it would help keep the cylinders cleaner longer and make cleaning them easier, especially on guns like my 610 or 686 where I am using a cartridge that is shorter than the actual chamber and allows space for crud to build up?

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I use it in my .38 super 627 chambers and it does make it easier to wipe off the crud and I have no trouble with extraction. I'm not sure if the chambers stay cleaner longer (I think they do).

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Big believer in the "Frog", open gun, shotguns, limited guns, all revolvers.... "A little dab will do ya"... It won't hurt your chambers....like you noted.... The "crud" just wipes off.

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Let me explain a bit further....you do not want any kind of lube in the chamber of any handgun, as it can cause pressure phenomena that have the potential to cause case blow-outs and/or damage to your gun. You have to think about what happens during the firing process. When you fire the cartridge, the case expands and momentarily fills the entire chamber, until the rapidly-expanding gases outside the case size the brass back down slightly and allow the case to release from the chamber walls. The momentary friction between the outside walls of the case and the inside chamber walls is necessary to keep 100% of that pressure from being directed against the base of the case and the breech face of the gun. If the chamber (or ammo) is lubricated, that ordinary process is thwarted and all the pressure comes straight back instantaneously.

Every manufacturer of firearms and ammunition in the industry will warn against lubing chambers, for this very reason. It's a dangerous practice--don't do it.

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Thanks for the advice everyone, especially Mike. After reading your response I do remember reading in the past that you want the friction to keep the case in place until the pressure reduces to prevent excessive battering of the breech face. While the quest for keeping the chambers cleaner longer will continue, I will pass on Frog Lube in the chambers. It does make it easier to clean everything off, but I will keep it on the exterior where it belongs.

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Let me explain a bit further....you do not want any kind of lube in the chamber of any handgun, as it can cause pressure phenomena that have the potential to cause case blow-outs and/or damage to your gun. You have to think about what happens during the firing process. When you fire the cartridge, the case expands and momentarily fills the entire chamber, until the rapidly-expanding gases outside the case size the brass back down slightly and allow the case to release from the chamber walls. The momentary friction between the outside walls of the case and the inside chamber walls is necessary to keep 100% of that pressure from being directed against the base of the case and the breech face of the gun. If the chamber (or ammo) is lubricated, that ordinary process is thwarted and all the pressure comes straight back instantaneously.Every manufacturer of firearms and ammunition in the industry will warn against lubing chambers, for this very reason. It's a dangerous practice--don't do it.

That's interesting. I thought that the brass contracted when it cooled and that is why you are able to extract it. I didn't know about gas outside the case resizing it. Hornday says on their web page that as the pressure continues to build, the case is forced so tightly against the chamber wall that it cannot move; but since we had a gap between the base of the cartridge case and the face of bolt or breech block - what we termed a little headspace - the case itself must stretch in the head region to force the case head back.

As the case is moved rearward the primer is reseated in its pocket, when the bullet exits up the barrel the pressure drops, the case cools, and the brass contracts enough to permit extraction of the fired cartridge case from the chamber.

Then I checked the Smith & Wesson factory revolver manuals, both on safety and their cleaning instructions and there is no mention of the "dangers" of lube in the chambers. With all of the other warnings you would think that if this is dangerous they would mention it. Then I read the Taurus factory revolver manuals. Same thing. Nary a word that I've seen. Perhaps I overlooked it and if so, I would like to apologize for my oversight. But I've used frog lube and put thousands of rounds throughout them with no problems. Am I overdue for a problem or just lucky? Beats me.

Steve

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I think that most all of us are hear to learn. This is part of the process. If someone knows differently about lube in chambers, chime in. Otherwise, I'm going to keep doing what I'm doing 'cause it works for me. Sure is nice to have clean cylinders to drop your ammo in.

Steve

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For what its worth, cylinder & slide's website has a section on cleaning where they seem to recommend having a light coating of oil in the chambers. I have never done so for the reasons Mike mentioned but I am all for something that makes cleaning easier.

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My personal take on the issue is that it's not too critical for light & mid range target loads, but is probably a bad idea for the Magnum pistol and probably all rifle loads. The higher pressure ranges are where bad things can happen in a hurry.

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For what its worth, cylinder & slide's website has a section on cleaning where they seem to recommend having a light coating of oil in the chambers. I have never done so for the reasons Mike mentioned but I am all for something that makes cleaning easier.

I'm not sure it affects cleaning at all. The super hot gas released on the first couple of shots would vaporize the lube and scorch it to the chamber wall so after that, it's pretty much business as usual.
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For what its worth, cylinder & slide's website has a section on cleaning where they seem to recommend having a light coating of oil in the chambers. I have never done so for the reasons Mike mentioned but I am all for something that makes cleaning easier.

I'm not sure it affects cleaning at all. The super hot gas released on the first couple of shots would vaporize the lube and scorch it to the chamber wall so after that, it's pretty much business as usual.

This makes sense to me. I'll bet that's exactly what happens.

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