Canine582 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Not new to reloading but haven't used much case lube over the years (3). I now have both Hornady One Shot and Dillon case lube and I know now what I've been missing out on. Which one do you like and why and also what is the complete drying time for each. Thanks and glad to be here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 With One-Shot, I give it a couple minutes per spray on my .223 brass. Spray, go swap toolheads on press, spray, continue swapping toolheads, then pile everything into my brass trays. If I'm super concerned about cleanliness, I tumble my ammo when I'm done. One-Shot's been great to me so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Dillon Case Lube doesn't dry. It's basically lanolin in an alcohol carrier. I only use it for rifle cases, and use carbide sizing dies for handgun cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canine582 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) I'll wait to use the Dillon when I load for .223 someday. I thought it was Dillon's version of One Shot. Thanks. Edited February 27, 2014 by Canine582 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I have and use both. One shot aerosol is better than the pump spray bottle. Dillon lube is great too. I don't bother to remove either from pistol rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basman Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 One Shot for pistol and Dillon for rifle. I like to tumble lube off the loaded rounds, about 15-20 minutes does the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I can't come up with a reason not to lube cases prior to loading. With pistol (carbide dies or not) it just makes everything so much smoother and consistent. With rifle and full length resizing, its required to avoid stuck cases. Maybe not needed if neck sizing only for a bolt gun... I lube everything with Dillon lube, dump right into the hopper and start loading, no waiting. tumble after loading for 15 minutes...GTG jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Steele Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I can't come up with a reason not to lube cases prior to loading. With pistol (carbide dies or not) it just makes everything so much smoother and consistent. With rifle and full length resizing, its required to avoid stuck cases. Maybe not needed if neck sizing only for a bolt gun... I lube everything with Dillon lube, dump right into the hopper and start loading, no waiting. tumble after loading for 15 minutes...GTG jj yep, i do the exact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I used One Shot until I tried the Dillon spray lube. The Dillon product is much better in my humble opinion. I could tell a big difference when sizing 9mm and 45 ACP. I spray, let dry for 5 minutes, then start loading. I spray with 91% alcohol to remove the lube from loaded rounds. Works great for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I can't come up with a reason not to lube cases prior to loading. With pistol (carbide dies or not) it just makes everything so much smoother and consistent. With rifle and full length resizing, its required to avoid stuck cases. Maybe not needed if neck sizing only for a bolt gun... I lube everything with Dillon lube, dump right into the hopper and start loading, no waiting. tumble after loading for 15 minutes...GTG jj Can you tumble bare lead ammo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canine582 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 I started using the One Shot due to the #2 Dillon die on my 550 "gauling" something fierce. I helped and bought a extra can. When ordering my 9mm set up to start loading 9mm's, I bought two bottles of the Dillon case lube thinking it served the same purpose as the One Shot does. I was thinking it would go further than the OS. Just as long as it won't effect the powder, or does it. And is it important to tumble after loading? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Yes - you can tumble lead reloads. Don't do it for too long or the bullet will look "bead blasted", that won't hurt the accuracy any as the part that shows doesn't ride on the rifling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I ask because I got back a wadcutter with rounded edges once. Granted, it was in with about 500 empty cases overnight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I started using the One Shot due to the #2 Dillon die on my 550 "gauling" something fierce. I helped and bought a extra can. When ordering my 9mm set up to start loading 9mm's, I bought two bottles of the Dillon case lube thinking it served the same purpose as the One Shot does. I was thinking it would go further than the OS. Just as long as it won't effect the powder, or does it. And is it important to tumble after loading? Dont spray it directly on the cases, spray it into a tupperware bowl or something and THEN add brass, close the lid and shake. I started doin this because the lube inside the case would stick powder to the case wall and I couldnt get an accurate powder measurement when spot checking powder throws. Also from what I have learned it will not affect powder burn I have tried One Shot, prefer Dillon, it lubes better, (feels slipperier) and keeps on lubing even when it drys. I have tried not tumbling it off, and its gummy feeling just bothers me when loading mags, so I tumble it off. Leaving it didnt seem to make a difference thou. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 I like spraying a couple of shots of Dillon in my S1050 case feed hopper, throw in the brass and it coats itself as it turns. Was told this trick by a large commercial reloader. Yes, the hopper gets sticky, but I've loaded100,000 plus rounds with out cleaning it once or having a problem.... In my 550s I spray a couple of shots in a 2 gallon bucket, dump in the brass and swirl it around and start reloading. I never take the lube off after Reading an Enos post he found the Dillon lube dries to a waxy finish and seems to feed better in 1911s...that's also been my experience. Lube for me is to make the machines run smoother and faster. Never had a problem with bad powder or primer with Dillon lube but did with a bunch of others...has something to do with Dillon's blend... Marine Corp Colonial Shooting Academy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 I definitely just got some real good info, but I had some problems with the Lyman lube personally. I wanted to see what it was like so i ordered a bottle off amazon. I lubed the cases the same way i used to do .223. Put brass in a cardboard box, spray twice, close lid and shake. I am thinking though that the lube somehow contaminated the powder considering i was getting very similar results in some to when i had some ammo that came in contact with water. Most felt like low powder charges and the gun did not cycle. i will try a different lube first then i will probably use the lube in hopper trick if that doesn't work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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