PatJones Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 My skipping problem returned and returned every couple of months. It simply would not stay away. I finally replaced the cylinder stop spring with one cut less than the previous one. Problem solved. A weak cylinder stop spring can lead to poor engagement, that leads to premature penning, that leads to skipping. Dont go too light on the cylinder stop spring. I've never cut one of those as part of a trigger job. We work that spring pretty hard, we're not shooting bullseye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 People don't always like hearing this, but about 80% of the peening problems are caused by excessive dry-fire and slamming stuff around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 People don't always like hearing this, but about 80% of the peening problems are caused by excessive dry-fire and slamming stuff around. Of the 3 guns I have that skipped, two of them skipped with much fewer than 2k clicks on the trigger combined live/dry fire, maybe even less than 1k, and those two were spanking new Ti cylinders. Is 2k trigger pulls excessive? Both of those had that invisble but present ridge on the ball cut side of the notch that when hit with a craytex bit relieved the issue... The 3rd is an extremely live/dry fired and abused gun, and ultimately skipped because of a week stop spring and less than great cyl stop. The cylinder has tons of evidence of peening but does not seem to cause skipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 A lot of it depends on the particular shooter's habits in opening and (more importantly) closing the cylinder. Some people just seem to have a tendency to slam it closed really, really hard. And they don't realized they are doing it. Just sayin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPM8shot Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Excellent work there Greg. Pictures are worth a thousand words. I have also had a visit with Skip Chambers. My brother and I did almost exactly what you have done there. Unfortunately my issue came back. Long story short Apex Tactical, Randy Lee Bla bla bla Titanium cylinder. What I have noticed is that the stainless guns seem to suffer more of this issue. By comparison the 625 cylinder loaded with 6 230 gr RN bullets is heavy. As far as dry firing? (Carmoney is correct) Yes on my 625 I dry fired it ALOT and yes I noticed the cylinder notches peening over. By contrast I also have a 586 no dash, that I used for ICORE and USPSA for years. No kidding that one has to have 80K plus dry fires on it. never broke a firing pin, minimal peening and Skip has not paid that one a visit. (Now watch what happens...) Randy ICORE CA 8491 USPSA TY27966 NRA LIFE MEMBER CVD8294 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 A lot of it depends on the particular shooter's habits in opening and (more importantly) closing the cylinder. Some people just seem to have a tendency to slam it closed really, really hard. And they don't realized they are doing it. Just sayin'. I hear you, not trying be argumentative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Zombie Revival for a great thread. Skip Chambers paid me a visit during a practice session today. i hadn't shot my Revolver for many months and decided to practice up with it in prep for a factory gun match in December. Sure enough I had it happen a couple of times. I recall when I put the gun up that it had happened once at the last match I used the gun and apparently it didn't heal itself during all that time in the safe. Bummer. Anyway, I looked this thread up to go over what I need to do to it and wanted to bump this as it has all the info needed to cure the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
357454 Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 A local shooter is experiencing the same problems on a nearly new 625 PC. I advised him to inspect the cylinder stop spring and smooth out his trigger pull, he was pulling the trigger very hard and fast when the sites we on target rather than a smooth pull. He was able to get a few skips with an empty cylinder, hopefully a new spring and deburring will solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I am recently experiencing the same problem SeanC had on my 929 as well. I know I have at least 2000 clicks through it this year and probably another 1500 to 2000 from last year. I am working to resolve it and confident it will turn out well. In fact, thank you Sean for helping diagnose it. My question is, what causes the burr to develop at the bottom of the lead in ramp? I understand the cylinder stop slamming into the flat face of the notch causing the peening issue, but it seems like the stop should just ride along the ramp and fall into the notch. No real force in the direction that would cause a burr there. Does the cylinder stopping have enough force that it actually bounces off the flat face of the notch and hits against the face at the lead in ramp? Just curious as to what causes this, hoping to not do it again in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanc Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, ihocky2 said: I am recently experiencing the same problem SeanC had on my 929 as well. I know I have at least 2000 clicks through it this year and probably another 1500 to 2000 from last year. I am working to resolve it and confident it will turn out well. In fact, thank you Sean for helping diagnose it. My question is, what causes the burr to develop at the bottom of the lead in ramp? I understand the cylinder stop slamming into the flat face of the notch causing the peening issue, but it seems like the stop should just ride along the ramp and fall into the notch. No real force in the direction that would cause a burr there. Does the cylinder stopping have enough force that it actually bounces off the flat face of the notch and hits against the face at the lead in ramp? Just curious as to what causes this, hoping to not do it again in the future. Yes, it is bouncing back. This has only ever happened to me with brand new Ti cylinders, somewhere in the first several thousands cycles it happens. My theory is that when the ball cut is made, its leaving a slight burr that is in the notch, it is a tiny raised ridge, that when whacked enough when the cylinder stop bounces off the flat side, it eventually bashes that burr back and upward which creates the ridge the cylinder stop jumps over. Edited October 5, 2016 by seanc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Be a little gentler. No reason to slam it closed, even when speed reloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distant Thunder Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Carmoney said: Be a little gentler. No reason to slam it closed, even when speed reloading. I think Jerry even addressed this in one of his videos if I'm not mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Yes, he absolutely did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
357454 Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 On 10/2/2016 at 1:35 PM, 357454 said: A local shooter is experiencing the same problems on a nearly new 625 PC. I advised him to inspect the cylinder stop spring and smooth out his trigger pull, he was pulling the trigger very hard and fast when the sites we on target rather than a smooth pull. He was able to get a few skips with an empty cylinder, hopefully a new spring and deburring will solve the problem. I inspected the 625 last week, found the cylinder stop was riding too far forward on the cylinder, installed one that was slightly longer in length which now tracks in the center of the cylinder cut. Will find out this weekend if this solved the problem. For what it's worth the cylinder involved did not have a burr on the leading edge of the notch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now