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First .38 Super a Range Trip


RevolverJockey

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So this morning I took out my new 627 Super for a test drive.

Until I get a lighter rebound spring in, I clipped a few coils off of a 14# and set the trigger to 5.25#. Results were promising:

5375A8B8-1742-410C-8909-F9789459FEAD_zps

So were the groupings:

DD614CB9-D082-41BB-921D-02CFB3D0E287_zps

Obviously, I was aiming for the center of the target. I really like the sight picture and even with the rear sight bottomed out this is what I got. Is close enough at 20 yards or should I start shopping for a new front sight?

Lee

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NIce!

Many of "yooz gize" have sub 6# triggers and no issues with light strikes. I'm at about 6 1/2# and can't imagine it any lighter...reckon I gotta try. I have a 13# rebound spring and the Wolff RP mainspring. All my revolver 38 super brass is nickel plated Remington, federal primers and usually Clays

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I just ordered 3 11s and 3 12s. Of you PM me your address I will send you one when I get them. Keep in mind if you need a pretty heavy mainspring to get reliable ignition with the ammo and firing pin you have, you can only rob the rebound spring soo much to improve the trigger pull. The should balance and work in symbiance with one another. Too light of a rebound spring and you end up with a two stage and even worse a gun that will not reliably return. The tension the mainspring exerts to the slider through the contact with the hammer cannot be overcome be the rebound spring and the trigger locks up intermediate. Personally, I think balance and positive return are more important to speed and accuracy than the weight of the pull.

Lee

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I shoot at steel...if that were my gun, I wouldn't touch a thing! Are there any direct fit front sites available? I had fit an SDM, but it sticks out of the 627's funky sight base

Edited by RussB
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Yes - you're right. I was thinking rear and writing front. A .200 might work. If you want we can try a standard ,200, if that doesn't work you can exchange it for a taller one. Or just go taller to begin with.

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Don't I need a taller front sight? Like something in the .210-215" range?

~.220 would give you some range adjustment when installed rather than being bottomed out. What height is your rear blade? It's worth adjusting the front to be able to use a .160 rear.
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So as expected, I got off the phone with S&W and the gun should have been built with a .215" patridge front vice the .190" it has now. They were super nice and were all set to send me a replacement sight and pins, except they are out of stock with no intention of making replacements as all current models use the slip in style. I think I may file a few thousandths off of the rear sight. I can't see dumping $50 into a new gun for 1" POI shift. Overall, I like the sight picture. Unless my math is off, I only need about. .012"

Lee

AD5C35F3-8F2D-4787-B8D8-8AC489B5424A_zps

Edited by RevolverJockey
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So this morning I took out my new 627 Super for a test drive.

Until I get a lighter rebound spring in, I clipped a few coils off of a 14# and set the trigger to 5.25#. Results were promising:5375A8B8-1742-410C-8909-F9789459FEAD_zps

So were the groupings:DD614CB9-D082-41BB-921D-02CFB3D0E287_zps

Obviously, I was aiming for the center of the target. I really like the sight picture and even with the rear sight bottomed out this is what I got. Is close enough at 20 yards or should I start shopping for a new front sight?

Lee

I see you found the magic formula 3.3 gr WST. That is my favorite load.
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Admittedly, I don't have a lot of experience with a ransom rest and the one I have access to is old and beat up but I kind of expected better results. I think the vertical stringing was due to the inconsistent zeroing of the elevation screw. I more or less reset the machine before each shot, should I be making fine adjustments with the rest between shots? I pretty much assumed the machines mechanical repeat would be better than my eyes. At what point group wise can assume it is the gun and not the load? Any tips to setting up and using the ransom rest?

Lee

C78A9D52-45C9-443F-9E87-55814FEC50B2_zps

Edited by RevolverJockey
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The gun should be zeroed, as best you can, for the distance you're shooting with the Ransom Rest. The Ransom Rest has a friction plate and spring that can be adjusted to increase or decrease the muzzle flip. You want to adjust the friction such that the gun shoots at point of aim. This will simulate your grip of the gun. Too much friction and the gun will shoot low, too little and it will shoot way high. Don't make any adjustments between shots, just reset it on the elevation stop. Shoot a couple cylinders to settle the gun in the inserts before you do evaluation shots. The Rest is not absolute. It's good for evaluating/comparing different loads/bullets/etc. without wearing yourself out.

BTW, what distance was that target?

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This was 50 yards.

I think I figured out what the problem was. The inserts are hard to get on and off the rest. When I have them off the rest and put them just on the frame of the revolver they line up and sandwich together with no gap. On the rest there was a gap a little over an 1/8". I think I will try pressing the insert on the grips first tomorrow and retest. I think the frame might have been out of alignment with the insert allot some additional movement. I'll post results tomorrow.

Lee

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You need to settle in the grip inserts and gun in the rest by firing a few cylinder fulls. While you are doing this you can adjust the drag on the "clutch" so that the gun ends up pointed about 45 degrees up (maybe a little more). If the clutch feels at all sticky, take it apart and clean it thoroughly.

After re-checking everything for tightness, start shooting groups. This includes the insert clamp nuts and the clamps or bolts that hold down the rest platform.

1. Use the little trigger tripper mechanism supplied with the rest each time, don't use your finger on the trigger.

2. Use only the handle on the rest to reset the gun - every time. Do not touch the gun except as needed to reload, and do that gently as possible.

3. Every time, move the gun (using the handle on the rest) all the way back to muzzle vertical and then back down to the stop in one smooth motion.

That ought to solve any rest operation problems.

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Admittedly, I don't have a lot of experience with a ransom rest and the one I have access to is old and beat up but I kind of expected better results. I think the vertical stringing was due to the inconsistent zeroing of the elevation screw. I more or less reset the machine before each shot, should I be making fine adjustments with the rest between shots? I pretty much assumed the machines mechanical repeat would be better than my eyes. At what point group wise can assume it is the gun and not the load? Any tips to setting up and using the ransom rest?

Lee

C78A9D52-45C9-443F-9E87-55814FEC50B2_zps

Man assuming that a lot of that vertical stringing was you adjusting, I'd be tickled pink with that group. Very interested to see what have when you get it "dialed in".

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These are my handloads with bullets that I cast from range lead - these bullets are also unsized and tumble lubed with a homemade lubricant. There are sooo many variables, I don't even know where I would want to begin if I was included to start making changes. I wouldn't say I am disappointed, I just expected a circular group. I am heading back to the range this morning to do more testing before I make any changes to the ammo. I mounted a scope to give me a better indication of POA shift.

Strange, but when I talked to ransom, they said don't bother using the arm, just pull the trigger with my finger. lol. I will try using the mechanical finger and see if that makes any change and will post results. Yesterday, I went out and shot a 4 1/4" 20 shot group that was a little more circular.

Maybe I should just save myself the trouble and get the gun Taylor throated (Mike if are lurking around, this comment was for you).

Lee

Edited by RevolverJockey
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I have had a Ransom Rest for 20+ years and those above covered things well. One thing to add is make sure the gap in the inserts is even with the gun mounted by tightening the 3 knobs evenly. Also after you shoot a few cylinders to settle the gun in the inserts I always check the knobs again in case they loosened up upon settling and will typically give them a quarter turn for good measure.

Additionally, I got rid of the trigger pulling linkage years ago and just use my finger to pull the trigger. I found I was wasting a lot of time getting that thing set for all the different guns I would test and have never had any issues with using my trigger finger.

Neal in AZ

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