Polish FP and FPB to improve ignition?

[GunslingerDK]

Im having light strikes on one of my stock 2's. Both Guns are set up the same: xtreme firing pin, xtreme hammer and a Wolff 16lbs hammer spring. One of the guns has more FTI than i like. When pressing the FP with a punch there is more resistance than with the other gun. Would it help to polish the pin? What about the FPB, is there something i can do to that to ensure more constant ignition?

[kneelingatlas]

Yes and yes, if it moves, polish it.

[Nealio]

I had a similar issue on a Witness P I had, so I took the stock firing pin, chucked it up in my Idaho Lathe (aka drill) and polished the crap out of it with 2000 grit paper. I then ran a ceramic stone on the flat part where the FP block rides against (2000 grit paper would work fine for this too). Then I took the "hook" down on the FP block by about .010" because I could see it was hitting slightly on the firing pin. I then took a dremel "grey wheel" to the part of the FP block that rides on the firing pin.

Now it has the deepest primer strikes of any of my guns, running a reduced power spring and the stock firing pin.

[GunslingerDK]

Nealio , that sounds good. I Will try this and see if it help. When you say hook do you mean the little hook that is located on the buttom og the FPB? Right below the flat area of the block?

[GunslingerDK]

I have read that some people cut coils off of the FP spring. I assume this means less resistance for the FP, but will it retract consistently? Any other downsides to this mod?

[Nealio]

You shouldn't need to cut the spring.

And yes the "hook" in talking about is the little nub on the FP block where the FP block rides against the flat part of the firing pin.

[kneelingatlas]

If you're going to cut coils I suggest winding the cut coils back into the spring before installing it again. The problem you run into with a cut spring is that when you dry fire on an empty chamber the pin travels forward too far and gets wedged in the breech face. If never seen EG's pin so it might be less susceptible to this than my own (trimmed large frame pin in small frame slide).

[GunslingerDK]

I have a lot of FP springs since they come with the Wolff recoil springs so will try and cut it to see if it helps.

Not long ago I read a thread in here where someone mentioned that the Xtreme FP does not work so well with a polished FPB, as the factory pin does. If this is true I cannot understand why it shouldn't? I can't see why an unpolished part would work better than a polished one. Can anyone confirm this?

[Mo Hepworth]

What it is is this..the xtreme pin imho..needs to be fitted to the block. Might work as a drop in piece, might not.

A good way to test is to remove the slide and press the pin from the rear. It should move freely. If in encounters resistance you need to find out why. I have removed the block on my open gun and had done so as well with my standard/ limited gun. I have a p19L in .40 coming...base model. it happens to be a small frame .40. I have enough spare parts to smooth it out. I will be using the Henning firing pin or the Egw, factory aluminum grips and either Eric mag pads or Hennings.

[Wilfred]

You can polish the fpin and use the factory fp spring.

Edited December 8, 2013 by Wilfred

[Mo Hepworth]

Might even use Bens pads if he ever makes small frame ones

[Mo Hepworth]

Might even use Bens pads if he ever makes small frame ones

[mwc]

Might even use Bens pads if he ever makes small frame ones

I just saw recently that Matt Hopkins was using Ben's (Shock bottle) base pads on his CZ mags. My guess is that you won't have to wait long.

[CHA-LEE]

What type and brand of primers are you using? If you are using hard primers then its going to take a lot of effort to set them off.

[GunslingerDK]

Iam using Magtech primers for practice, and Federal for matches. I have no problem setting of federals with a 14lbs spring. I polished the firing pin on my practice gun and this seems to help. I will remove the FPB on my practice gun and see if it does anything.

[CHA-LEE]

The Magtech primers are significantly harder than the Federal primers. Using harder primers will require a stiffer hammer spring to set them off.

If you are going to remove the firing pin block then simply ditch the stock firing pin and go with an extended one like the Henning XL Firing Pin. Using an extended firing pin will ensure solid primer hits on most primers using pretty soft hammer springs.

[jmbaccolyte]

GunslingerDK- Please forgive the thread hijacking:

But does anyone know how the Win. small pistol primers compare for hardness to the Magtech ones? I like that the Win. primers take up so much less space than the Federals in my small reloading space and also that they lay flat in the factory packaging (instead of being on edge) which makes getting them into the primer feeding tubes easier than the Federals. Thanks.

[Torogi]

As more shooters will chime in, this is how it is for me.

Wolf=CCI> Winchester> Federal

im sure some others has more experience with other brands such as magtech, remington, tula, etc.

[CHA-LEE]

From my experience with the magtech, they are similar to CCI from a hardness perspective. I would also agree with the Wolff> CCI> Winchester> Federal from hardest to softest rating.

I use Winchester Small Pistol Primers exclusively right now, but have shot a bunch of CCI and about 10K of magtech.

[TheGWP]

I had similar problem with my Match. It was finally resolved by removing FB and running a Henning XL. I too was running reloads with Rem primers. This beeing said I only use mine for fun, not carry so the absense of FB doesn't concern me. But you need to consider you use when making this mod.