Pre Travel

[Rolex]

Any way to shorten the pre travel using the stock Glock trigger.

[SPDGG]

While retaining the factory center safety length & retaining function, without trimming: Not really

Most aftermarket triggers either weld-up the trigger bar or pin the factory safety to reduce pre-travel. So, I guess Yes you can shorten it using the factory Glock trigger.

- Easiest would be pinning the trigger to reduce the amount of forward movement & trim the rear of the safety . . . . Of course with it still retaining its designed function.

imho: I've had many triggers from various companies, done my own mods, but seem to prefer the factory bar, reduced connector- that still retains a crisp reset, and overtravel reduced. As long as the take up is smooth and I can roll through the break smooth, Im GTG. Then only up to reset and smooth back. . . . . Again, imho: Works for me.

My training gun(s) are my carry gun(s), My carry gun(s) are my training gun(s).

Edited September 30, 2013 by SPDGG

[bigtimelarry]

Glockworx sells a stock trigger bar with reduced pre-travel.

SPDGG, How much of a difference have you noticed with the Overtravel shortened up.

I have Vanek Triggers with the Overtravel shortened up right after the break and then I

have stock triggers with stock overtravel and the difference is hardly anything..

Edited October 1, 2013 by bigtimelarry

[darkhelmet47]

You can shorten pre-travel with a stock trigger bar, but it requires altering the trigger safety and depending on the amount you shorten the pre-travel it could render the striker plunger safety ineffective. I tinkered with mine by press fitting a piece of plastic in the front of the slot on the left of the striker block (when looking at it from the rear). The trigger came out really nice, but I had to file a little off the trigger safety to get it to work. It also kept the plunger depressed at all times. I didn't like having to alter the safeties so I returned it to stock pre-travel.

Edited October 2, 2013 by darkhelmet47

[Flexmoney]

Be careful. A common way to take out the pre-travel is to set the trigger's start point so that it is simply further back. If done without careful consideration, this could completely negate the safety that is the system of the glock trigger action.

[kamikaze1a]

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

[jlamphere]

GlockTriggers.com has a couple of good triggers. The Skimmer has a clean break and adjustable pre-travel. The Vogel has a adjustable springs that let you set it up however you like it.

[Flexmoney]

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

And, the drop safety leg?

[emjei]

Here is a way to do it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

[sweetback]

Here is a way to do it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

(question) for emjei:

After the pre-travel screw is installed is the trigger safety tab still functional or do you have to trim it shorter for it to function as a trigger safety?

[emjei]

Here is a way to do it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

(question) for emjei:

After the pre-travel screw is installed is the trigger safety tab still functional or do you have to trim it shorter for it to function as a trigger safety?

I have to be honest....I saw that video but never tried to do it.

I think you will have to trim the safety a bit .....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

[the duck of death]

Don't use a screw (and perhaps misplace it) ,heat and bend the front leg of the cruciform sear toward the front of the gun. Use a heat sink when you do this. It's easy to do and can be adjuated to get the pre travel you like.

If this is done the trigger safety MUST be altered to work correctly.

Edited October 5, 2013 by the duck of death

[emjei]

Don't use a screw (and perhaps misplace it) ,heat and bend the front leg of the cruciform sear toward the front of the gun. Use a heat sink when you do this. It's easy to do and can be adjuated to get the pre travel you like.

If this is done the trigger safety MUST be altered to work correctly.

That will put more stress on the trigger spring ...doesnt it ???

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

[the duck of death]

No, I've got thousands of rounds through my Glocks and never broke a trigger spring. Actually stretching the trigger spring will lighten the trigger pull.

Edited October 5, 2013 by the duck of death

[emjei]

Can you post pictures how exactly its done ??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

[the duck of death]

Sorry, no pictures.

[kamikaze1a]

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

And, the drop safety leg?

Sorry, no easy fix for that...if you remove too much pre-travel the trigger bar will be "off the shelf".

[BigBoss]

I found for me the best way to alter pre travel is to drill and tap a 2-56 set screw use 425 loc tite to sure up into the trigger shoe which acts as a fulcrum aginst the trigger bar in the insertition slit then use a .35 hex wrench to adjust. then shave/snip the trigger safety till the bigger portion chunk is gone. There is still plenty of purchase on the tab to engage the frame as well as keeping the FPS plunger and the shelf drop safty in working order the surface area of the modfied TS is more than ZEV and other aftermarket trigger systems have . So you are well within tolerance. If it's a gen 4 somtimes if you use the comp 6lb trigger spring and a 4lb or less FPS spring the trigger will not re-engage so the TS tab pops back out. So you have to make sure the trigger shoe returns back to it's full forward resting position or you negate the TS by virtue of too much trigger spring tension. NEVER strech springs it hamppers their reliaibility. friend me on facebook johnnyglocks llc for pics and what not I'm new to this site but not to Glocks been tweeking them since mid 90's and am an advanced armorer. I would post pics here but I cant figure out hou too

[Flexmoney]

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

And, the drop safety leg?

Sorry, no easy fix for that...if you remove too much pre-travel the trigger bar will be "off the shelf".

Thus...NO SAFETY

[Chaser_2332]

I have seen a few mods in person similar to the above video, it did work well however I am a little hesitant to do it to mine. There seamed to be a fine line between it working really well and not resetting the trigger

[kamikaze1a]

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

And, the drop safety leg?

Sorry, no easy fix for that...if you remove too much pre-travel the trigger bar will be "off the shelf".

Thus...NO SAFETY

I am not advocating removing so much of the pre-travel that it disables the drop safety. Provided you limit how much pre-travel you eliminate, the drop safety could still be functional. Besides, the Glock has several layers of safety.

The Series 80 Colt fp block safety is often disabled, the grip safety of many 1911/2011 gets pinned and the mag safety on many pistols are disabled. Why is the Glock so different?

Again, I am not advocating so much pre-travel removal that it disables the drop safety.