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Primary Arms 1-6 Scope


Alaskapopo

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The Gen 1 had a very glossy black finish and the Gen 2 is more matte. If you also look at the optional PA scope covers, the Gen 2 front cover has the angled body shown in Alaskapopo's picture, whereas the Gen 1 front cover was a straight tube, like a Butler Creek.

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The Gen 1 had a very glossy black finish and the Gen 2 is more matte. If you also look at the optional PA scope covers, the Gen 2 front cover has the angled body shown in Alaskapopo's picture, whereas the Gen 1 front cover was a straight tube, like a Butler Creek.

Thanks! I bought one to test compared to a few other cheap scopes and was wondering if I had the old or new stuff.

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Thanks! I bought one to test compared to a few other cheap scopes and was wondering if I had the old or new stuff.

Jesse,

Will you be producing a comparison video?

Maybe this winter when shooting season is over. I have four sub $500 scopes sitting under a pile of old score sheets on my bench right now.

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I just got mine.

What did you guys zero it in at?

100?

My 3 gun c guru said do it at 300 yrds for. Our area..las vegas

Zero at 100 and then use the holds. They are close enough when using 55 gr factory ammo that you shouldn't have a problem. But if you do have a 300 yard range I would check that BDC hold after getting a 100 yd zero to see how close it is.
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Here's the reticle, 300 should be the top of the post, I'm actually about 3" low at 300 using the 400 hold

urabuhat.jpg

Shooting reloads, haven't chrono'd, load data says about 3300fps with 55 gr bullet. Any more specs I'll have to ask Josh - he's the number guy.

I'm just a trigger puller :ph34r:

Edited by toothandnail
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The instructions give zeroing distances. Mine, for example, is zeroed at 50yds because I am shooting it on a 14.5" barrel. Most other barrel/ammo combinations do call for a 100yd zero.

ETA: I have to say, Jesse's idea is great—if you can get the BDC right at 300yds, the closer stuff won't matter that much. I never thought about that before...

Edited by CJW
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Best bet is chrono your load and double check holds with strelok. Then you can input different zeros to find the holds that work best for you. Sure the program costs a little but the amount of trial and error ammo is far more expensive. My 69gr match load looks something like this with a 100 yd zero. Of course you are welcome to disagree ;-)

post-34194-141399927528_thumb.png

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