At a loss?

[Agney5]

So I seem to be having some issues loading for my XDM, I have had issues with rounds sticking in the chamber and being tough to eject and had come to the conclusion it was Glock bulge. So I finally bought a G-Rx die, but to no avail I still had problems with the round hanging up. So after trying everything I could think of ie: more crimp, the G-Rx, shortening OAL I still hadn't had any luck. So I decided to go overboard and figure this out It took me seating the all the way down to 1.110 before I quit having my issues. So I took my already loaded rounds forced them into the chamber and took pliers and spun the round several times which showed a very thin amount of coating being taken off. Now my biggest concern is what options do I have here, the bullet profile is as about as forgiving as it gets to allow me to load longer so what do I do now, what am I missing here. These rounds do work in an M&P, PX40 and a Ruger SR 40 with no issues.

Here is my load data and picture of regular Major load and to the right the same load but the round I put in the chamber and spun. It is hard to see but there are marks where some of the molly was removed. And yes both my major and minor loads have the same issue. So help me out here guys and gals I'm sure it is something stupid but I am just not getting it.

Load Data

Major Load

Mixed Brass Mostly Federal

CCI SPP

4.6 Gr WST

OAL 1.150

Crimp .416

Bullet BBI 180 FP

Minor Load

Mixed Brass Mostly Federal

CCI SPP

3.0 Clays

OAL 1.132

Crimp .416

Bullet BBI 180 FP

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg562/Agney5/IMG_1414.jpg

Edited September 12, 2013 by Agney5

[Zoomy]

I had the same problem with my Sig 226 and used the G-Rx. I still had a occasional problem. I got a case gage and found 1 in 95 rounds oversize near the groove. I ran the oversize loaded brass back thru the G-Rx die and they came out good.

[cslafrain]

Agney,

You have so much crimp that you are creating a bulge in the brass near the top of the brass. Crimp on moly bullets should be be at about 0.001 under the standard case diameter. The procedure for setting the crimp - https://www.blackbulletsinternational.com/Loading_Basics.html

Give us a call and we will try to help get this going for you. I run an XDM40-5.25 myself as my production gun, I also use the GR-x for all my 40 brass.

[Reshoot]

I suggest you turn to the Lee taper crimp die. Lee may refer to it as "factory crimp" die.

A roll crimped round will not run in my 40 caliber XDm, with Pistol Gear threaded barrel.

I put "zero" roll crimp on my rounds, and run them through the taper crimp die.

[cslafrain]

The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) is not recommended for use with Moly coated bullets.

[bajadudes]

I concur with the too much crimp suggestion above. I hate that the concept is even called "crimp"

It should be called "bell remover"

[Bob DuBois]

Lee U die purchase from EGW. Think Midway may have them. Lee's first stage sizing die will size closer to the extractor groove. Lee's seating die, for a few bucks you can send Lee the bullet your shooting and they will cut a seating plug. Had a flat one made my 9mm seating die local. Fixed the OAL problem I had using heavier bullets in 9mm minor. At present running Lee dies in station one, Lee's seating die and Dillon crimp die. Don't use the Lee factor crimp die as such just lightly roll crimp with it.

Might look at the Lee four carbide set. The standard Lee die is tighter than most other brands.

[Reshoot]

The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) is not recommended for use with Moly coated bullets.

Oh yeah, sorry! I didn't catch the molly bullet mention.

[fmj3]

The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) is not recommended for use with Moly coated bullets.

Oh yeah, sorry! I didn't catch the molly bullet mention.

I've been using the Lee FCD with BBI 180's with zero issues - for a Glock and a 2011, but I barely use any crimp. Maybe 1/8-1/4 turn past touching the case.

[cslafrain]

The Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) is not recommended for use with Moly coated bullets.

Oh yeah, sorry! I didn't catch the molly bullet mention.

I've been using the Lee FCD with BBI 180's with zero issues - for a Glock and a 2011, but I barely use any crimp. Maybe 1/8-1/4 turn past touching the case.

The FCD commonly gets used as a crutch to solve loading concerns. When crimp is set properly for moly bullets (very light crimp)the FCD does not cause a concern. However more often than not it is the 1st area that someone will crank down on and create more concerns than you originally had. We have heard of similar success stories with the use of the FCD, per Lee "A firm crimp is essential for dependable and accurate ammunition. It eliminates the problems of poor ignition of slow burning magnum powders." Moly bullets do not require the firm crimp that the FCD is capable of delivering - a light taper crimp is all that is necessary. The overcrimp most often occurs when converting from Jacketed bullets to Lead/Coated bullets.

[Agney5]

Guys I am having a hard time believing it is a crimp issue since the brass is not what is getting hung up. If you look at the photo I provided it is the bullet that is hanging up. Now why it will not quit hanging up until I shorten my OAL all the way down to 1.110 is my concern. As forgiving a profile as that bullet is I don't know of many other options here.

[yoshidaex]

Measure the diameter of a bullet that chambers and ejects fine compared to your moly bullet that has issues chambering.

More than likely the moly is sized slightly on the larger side.

[cslafrain]

We size our bullets to 0.400. If you overcrimp the lead has to go somewhere - it is not being compressed, it is being moved.

[yoshidaex]

Educate me on the moly application.

Will adding the moly coating increase the diameter of the bullet?

Thank you

[cslafrain]

Moly adds 0.0005 to the surface. When measuring the diameter it would be adding to 2 surfaces - so an OD increase of 0.001. We size a 40 bullet to 0.399 and then apply the coating and sealer. It produces a bullet at .400. We size to .400 overall instead of the standard 0.401 because most of our customers prefer it for better feeding reliability since often times tight chambered barrels are utilized.

[pskys2]

I take it the problem is ejecting a loaded round, not a fired case, right? But to be sure do the following.

First run a case through your sizing die, nothing else. Drop it into the chamber, if it goes in and the back of the rim is flush with the hood you're ok at this point. If it doesn't and you don't see a bulge at the base of the case, Glock Brass Bulge, you will need to have it reamed correctly.

Second look into the chamber and the rifling should start with a gentle angle, the leade, if it's not there and is an abrupt start to the rifling you will need more leade reamed into it. This usually shows up as rifling marks on the bullets. Especially as your bullets have a full diameter portion exposed. If you have minimal leade in the rifling the bullet jams onto the rifling. One way to overcome it is to seat your bullets deeper, but if you do in a .40 at major PF you may well have pressure problems. You won't help anything by reseating and recrimping loaded rounds.

Most factory .40 barrels come with a normal leade, to load long for Major PF you have to have the barrel reamed for it. Brownells sells the tool or any gunsmith can do it. You can over crimp a round and bulge the case, but usually that's only an issue with a Roll Crimp not a Taper Crimp. And .416 shouldn't be too much. Winchester Manual specs show something like 1.125 as a correct OAL for most rounds in 40 S&W.

Edited September 12, 2013 by pskys2

[bowenbuilt]

In your pictures it looks like you have a really good "roll" crimp on the cases. I am sure this is what leads to the comments about over crimping. If you shorten your OAL 1.10 and the problem goes away then it's a simple cure. Have the barrel throated so that you can use the OAL of your choice. Dawson will do it for you for $30.00 with a week turn around and problem solved. I have to admit the pictures do look like they are over crimped but lighting and camera angles can be deceiving.

BTW my XDm's has the same problem or had the same problem in both 9mm and .40. I loaded up 3 dummy rounds for each at 1.150 and sent the barrels to Dawson Precision. $60.00 and a week later I don't have anymore problems with having to load too short OAL's.

Edited September 12, 2013 by bowenbuilt

[Agney5]

Thank you everyone for the help, so for more details I am reloading on a SDB and I am using a standard taper crimp not a roll crimp. As for the OAL concerns I would agree with you but the fact that it takes seating all the way back 1.110 tells me something isn't kosher I understand XD's do take shorter OAL but 1.110 is way short at least in my eyes it is. Having said all that I think I might be on to something, I decided to look at the barrel and noticed a fairly heavy buildup of something on the top of the barrel just forward of the chamber. So after countless attempts with a brush and dental pick I have a good amount of the material out and putting my major rounds in the chamber is getting easier. I'm fixing to go and get a better carbon, lead remover and see if I can get whatever this is out of my barrel. But now I have to figure out what the hell is in my barrel (don't think it is lead but trying that anyways) and why it is only at the top of my barrel.

So if anyone has any idea what I'm dealing with now I take the help.

[MainlineSteve]

As others have said, you could be over-crimping. The bullet mass that is muffin-topping the case is being force-fed into the leade and accumulating at the leade/land junction upon firing. The muffin-top is causing the difficulty in manual ejection. The build up is causing your ever-shrinking OAL. Just my opinion, though. I could be wrong...

[Agney5]

So I got the barrel cleaned out and I can cycle the gun no problem now. I'm going to really lighten up the crimp now, under the advice of everyone here and having a talk with Chandler at BBI. Thanks for the help everyone and thanks a mill Chandler for offering up your tools if I needed them A+ customer service there.

[Reshoot]

Thank you everyone for the help, so for more details I am reloading on a SDB and I am using a standard taper crimp not a roll crimp. As for the OAL concerns I would agree with you but the fact that it takes seating all the way back 1.110 tells me something isn't kosher I understand XD's do take shorter OAL but 1.110 is way short at least in my eyes it is. Having said all that I think I might be on to something, I decided to look at the barrel and noticed a fairly heavy buildup of something on the top of the barrel just forward of the chamber. So after countless attempts with a brush and dental pick I have a good amount of the material out and putting my major rounds in the chamber is getting easier. I'm fixing to go and get a better carbon, lead remover and see if I can get whatever this is out of my barrel. But now I have to figure out what the hell is in my barrel (don't think it is lead but trying that anyways) and why it is only at the top of my barrel.

So if anyone has any idea what I'm dealing with now I take the help.

[JigSaw]

Thank you everyone for the help, so for more details I am reloading on a SDB and I am using a standard taper crimp not a roll crimp. As for the OAL concerns I would agree with you but the fact that it takes seating all the way back 1.110 tells me something isn't kosher I understand XD's do take shorter OAL but 1.110 is way short at least in my eyes it is. Having said all that I think I might be on to something, I decided to look at the barrel and noticed a fairly heavy buildup of something on the top of the barrel just forward of the chamber. So after countless attempts with a brush and dental pick I have a good amount of the material out and putting my major rounds in the chamber is getting easier. I'm fixing to go and get a better carbon, lead remover and see if I can get whatever this is out of my barrel. But now I have to figure out what the hell is in my barrel (don't think it is lead but trying that anyways) and why it is only at the top of my barrel.

So if anyone has any idea what I'm dealing with now I take the help.

Home Depot sells M.E.K. over in the solvents area by the paint. Great for bullet coatings like Precision & BBI

[Gandof]

Just saw this thread. I use BBIs in my aftermarket Glock barrels. Both have a rather abrupt and short leade. I have noticed that the Moly coating accumulates at that point. A through cleaning with MEK and a brass brush keeps it in check if used frequently. Need to have my barrels reamed to increase the leade, as well as reduce the angle. The angle may be causing me some accuracy problems with these bullets as well.