Relaoding .40 S&W

[Selby213]

I have heard that reloading 40S&W(handguns in general) is different than reloading rifle rounds. I did a quick search and did not see anything that seemed related. Anyways, I have reloaded hundreds of rounds of .223, .308, and dozens of .338Lapua. However I have not started .40S&W because I have concerns with over crimp, and flaring the mouth. If it is safe to assume that the crimp in handgun is similar to what I do for .223 and .308 then we can move on to the flaring. With that die am I running it full length, or is it just part way into the mouth. I hope that I am making sense. I would rather take it slow and get it right than trash a firearm.

thanks

Brian

[fmj3]

Loading .40 should should be much easier than rifle rounds.

Set the flare/bell just enough that it allows the bullet to seat w/o removing any plating/moly from it.

I generally set the crimp to the minimum possible for .40 - basically just remove the flare and maybe a quarter turn more.

Just be careful with fast burning powders and short OAL.

[OUshooter]

Over crimp in handgun is different than rifle. When I over crimp rifle it usually crumpled the case, but in pistol to much crimp actually leads to the bullet not being held firmly in the case. This in turn leads to bullet setback which can lead to a Kaboom. The tension of the case itself holds the bullet in place and the crimp really just takes the flare out of the mouth.

I like Lee factory crimp dies because it's designed to keep you from over crimping. IMO to much has been made of the .40 s&w being hard or dangerous to reload. It was what I learned on when I started. Follow general handloading safety and stay within trusted recipes and you will be fine.

[Selby213]

Thanks for the help.

I will be using power pistol and Berry bullets, and al I could find were federal small pistol match primers. I The majority of my die sets are Lyman, so that is wht I have for 40 as well.

Once again thanks for the info.

[fmj3]

Powder Valley STILL has Tula small pistol primers in stock.

I've been using them in 2 Glocks with very light striker springs and no issues yet, shot over a thousand of them so far.

[perrysho]

Shelby213,

.40 S&W is much easier to load than rifle ammo.

If your gonna use a lot of .40s take a look at a Dillon 650 w a case feeder it is one .40 loading mutta set-up properly.

I Clean in a Dillon 2000 Vib Unit, re-size, de-prime on a single stage Rock Chucker before placeing the cases in the case feeder.

Have a lite and a 3X mirror mounted on the 650, look at/in every case before placing bullet, fussey but don't have ahhh sheits.

I load .223s on 2 single stage presses, 1 RCBS5 & 1 Lee, try to do everything safe and very careful. Like all my fingers and eyes and wanna keep them just where they are.

The Crimp Die I like is a LEE 90782 - .40 S&W straight Crimp Die. Price $12.98 plus ship.

If you don't have time and patients you'll be on the ragged edge.

My Opinions

Perry

[MainlineSteve]

The 40SW is reloaded just like most any other straight case pistol round, but it is less forgiving of errors made. Small deviations in the loading process can make for significant pressure increases. Be diligent regarding powder measurement, seating depth/COAL and crimp enough so that the projectile cannot be pressed any further into the case even with multiple chamberings of the round. Pay attention when reloading these, using your eyes to monitor your powder charges and your calipers to spot check for oal drift.

Definitely start with published loads and on the lighter side of those. Good luck.

[chirpy]

If you are using range brass you might need a U die (standard not Carbide) to take out the Glock bulge other than that no problem. Your press mfg. should give you instructions on how to adjust your dies or you can call or go on-line to Lyman. Oh yes, I suggest a Carbide sizing die. Also, you might want to seat and taper crimp in two separate operations.

LMHOFWIW

Richard

[cookiemonster]

This is what I got out of a magazine for crimp.

[JaxWiley]

i started reloading with the .40S&W Do your one research and buy the books, i use the lyman 49th,Hornady 8TH and the Richard Lee Second Edition( it has plated data). all my loads have been at COL 1.125 and it has worked well for me. I like WIN 231 powder but cant find it any more so i found Win WST works well but no data. i use 180gr 165gr and 155 hollow base all berrys plated and again have been happy, the 180gr has preformed the best for me.as far as crimp goes, i just close the flair. With my dies( RCBS 3 die carb) it is about 1/4 turn down.neck size =od..424 mine od=.422 i use cci sp and win sp primers

Win 231 powder 180 gr fn i like 4.6 gr i missed col in my notes

win 231 powder 180gr fn berrys plated COL 1.132 4.9 gr was good crono at avg 888fps

win 231 powder 180gr Hor XTP JHP COL 1.125 5.1 was good AVG 914 fps

win WST powder 165gr fn HSM plated COL 1.125 5.4gr was good AVG 952.4 fps

win WST powder 155gr hbrn berrys plated COL 1.125 4.8 gr was good AVG 884 fps

win WST powder 180 gr fn berrys plated COL 1.125 was good AVG 882.3

i hope this helps and as always use this info at your oun risk i am not responsible in any way, in any time, in any galaxy, for the way this data is used.

all shot thought a H&K USPc .40

Edited August 25, 2013 by JaxWiley

[sperman]

Moved to the reloading forum.

[glc]

Like most everyone else,just enough belling and a touch of crimp to ever so slightly push that mouth against the bullet. Can't even tell it was crimped. I'll take a few and try like hell to push that bullet against my bench to see if my OAL changes. You'll get the hang of it.

Greg

[Selby213]

How Does the Belling look on these? The one in the middle has been resized but not belled.

How is the Crimp?

I don't know if you can tell or not, but in the last picture there is a slight rim indent, that can be felt with a finger nail, but not with the pad of the finger. Just wanting to make sure that everything looks good before loading ones that will go boom within a foot of my face, and inches of my fingers... I rather like have all attached in there present state.

Thanks for all the help. BTW, these are Berry Plated 180gr if that matters at all.

[Mikelindsey]

I'm a new by to reloading on the 650 but 40 cal was the first I loaded without any probs. much easier than 223 or other rifle rounds. Stay within guidelines and you will be ok. Check your first few loads on the chronograph. I found that my loaded ones were a bit higher than factory rounds. I'm using Alliant power pistol for powder and had to back it off just a bit. Ran a hundred more and no probs. good luck.

[glc]

I'm new at this too since May. All I've been loading is .40 S&W. I'm no expert,but I don't think you need quite that much bell. I bell it just enough that the bullet will somewhat sit in the mouth. I'm loading Berry 180 FP's at the moment also. From your seating depth you must be at least 1.135 OAL. I know 1.125 will put the mouth just about at the bullet taper. IMO,your crimp is pretty much what you want. Not too much,but just enough to get rid of the bell,and keep the bullet in place. I'll push a few against my bench to see if I can change the OAL. So far so good.

Greg

[Selby213]

I'm new at this too since May. All I've been loading is .40 S&W. I'm no expert,but I don't think you need quite that much bell. I bell it just enough that the bullet will somewhat sit in the mouth. I'm loading Berry 180 FP's at the moment also. From your seating depth you must be at least 1.135 OAL. I know 1.125 will put the mouth just about at the bullet taper. IMO,your crimp is pretty much what you want. Not too much,but just enough to get rid of the bell,and keep the bullet in place. I'll push a few against my bench to see if I can change the OAL. So far so good.

Greg

I've pulled those bullets as I didn't put powder in them(still doing the fine tuning), but I believe they were all between 1.3-1.32I tried to push on the 3 that I had, but they didn't move. took 2-3 solid hits with the puller to get the bullet out. I cant tell you how much I have messed with the little adjustments on setting up for handgun. Rifle was no big deal for me. I think that it is my paranoia with the small tolerances.

[glc]

I cant tell you how much I have messed with the little adjustments on setting up for handgun.

Not sure of the other pistol calibers,but .40 S&W is not forgiving at all. Wondered what I might have gotten myself into by deciding on a Glock in 40 cal,then reading all the horror stories. What I have found is that if you cross your T's and dot all your I's,you'll be just fine. With this gun and caliber, I don't take anything for granted,and like you, I probably check things a lot more than I really need to. In this hobby, there is no such thing as being too careful.

Greg

[Gandof]

Forty is no different from any other high pressure , low capacity pistol case. It operates in about the same pressure range as the 9mm. The same care should be taken when reloading any cartridge. Stick with reliable, published data, use the correct compotents for the job, watch your OAL and you should be fine. For range ammo, I load to major or minor PF using suitable compotents for each. There is nothing to be gained by pushing them faster. If you're not shooting a dicipline that requires major PF, then a good accurate midrange load will serve you well.

Gandof

[NoSteel]

I'm new at this too since May. All I've been loading is .40 S&W. I'm no expert,but I don't think you need quite that much bell. I bell it just enough that the bullet will somewhat sit in the mouth. I'm loading Berry 180 FP's at the moment also. From your seating depth you must be at least 1.135 OAL. I know 1.125 will put the mouth just about at the bullet taper. IMO,your crimp is pretty much what you want. Not too much,but just enough to get rid of the bell,and keep the bullet in place. I'll push a few against my bench to see if I can change the OAL. So far so good.

Greg

I've pulled those bullets as I didn't put powder in them(still doing the fine tuning), but I believe they were all between 1.3-1.32I tried to push on the 3 that I had, but they didn't move. took 2-3 solid hits with the puller to get the bullet out. I cant tell you how much I have messed with the little adjustments on setting up for handgun. Rifle was no big deal for me. I think that it is my paranoia with the small tolerances.

I am hoping you mean they were @ 1.13-1.132?? 1.3-1.32 would be pretty long OAL!!!

[Selby213]

Yeah, Sorry. although I did have a few that were 1.29 when I was trying to get things set.

[Selby213]

So I have heard about a U die several places on here that are used to get the glock bulge out. So I went on Brownells to try to purchase one, but all they had was a lee bulge buster. Has anyone had experience with the Lee Bulge buster or can you point me in the correct direction for a U die?

[HotLoad]

I have been using a redding GrX pass through die while I wait for my case pro.

[HotLoad]

I have been using a redding GrX pass through die while I wait for my case pro.

[bajadudes]

I hate that it is even called a crimp in the first place. looks like you may be able to go a hair less on the bell although it's hard to tell in the pic.

Over belling will cause premature stress cracking at the mouth of your cases if you reuse them a lot and the bullet will tend to tip more on a progressive press when indexing.

I like to just take the bell out so that on a pulled bullet there is no witness line. if you can feel it with your fingernail then there is still room for improvement. That being said, if you are using used brass you are going to have to settle for a happy medium since wall thickness can vary.

[Mokken]

Shelby,

You can get the Lee U-die from EGWguns.com, it's all I use for loading .40 and it does get rid of the .40 bulge.

http://www.egwguns.com/undersized-reloading-dies/undersized-reloading-dies/