smith52 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) I have a 625-8 & last year I had this issue where if I fired it slowly it worked fine however if I fired it fast it skipped chambers or overtraveled if you will. I refit the cylinder stop and replaced the cylinder stop spring while I was in there. It has worked great up until two or three days ago and now it's back to doing the same thing. Shoot slow all is good but tring to shoot real fast is starts skipping chambers or as I said earlier, overtravels. It skips the cylinder notch of the next chamber goes either half way or all the way to the following chamber's cylinder notch. I tried to refit the cylinder stop again, no change, replaced the cylinder stop and spring, no change. Any ideas? Thanks - Bob Edited May 29, 2013 by smith52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 I know Skip Chambers very well. You are in for an unhappy time. Have you done a search for skip on the board here? Many, many, pixels have been consumed on this subject. I posted a question that matches yours almost word for word a few years ago. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth (and about three cylinder replacements) I haven't had a repeat of the problem for several years. But my solution may not suit you. To start with the ending first, I replaced both of the stainless steel cylinders on my twin 625-8's with Titanium cylinders from PD325's. the Ti cylinders are ~40% lighter and are less susceptible to metal fatigue and peening in the relatively small area that slams into the cylinder stop at high speed. Or perhaps you could put in a new SS cylinder and learn to pull the trigger more gently...although I never could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 one thing thing it could be, that is pretty easy to deal with, is a lip or bur formed on the ramped side of the cylinder stop notches. take a look at the notches and if there is a little lip there you can carefully stone it down. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 How they look: (Note date stamp) http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32978&hl=n+frame+picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Make real sure it's actually skipping or is it not being rotated all the way to the next chamber. If the hand, spring or ratchet on the cylinder star aren't right you can skip over the ratchet and leave the cylinder sitting halfway to the next chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smith52 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 It is definitely skipping, I marked the cylinder notches to verify. I had a fellow revo shooter here in Indiana recommend that I check for the burr on the ramp side of cylinder notches, I will start there. Thanks for the info, I'll report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 If you have burrs you do not want to file them down. Carefully peen the burrs back where they came from. You can use a 5/16 rod with hammer for the ones in the ramp and a flat ended punch for the ones on the other side. I use a 5/16 hardened steel dowel pin for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smith52 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 If you have burrs you do not want to file them down. Carefully peen the burrs back where they came from. You can use a 5/16 rod with hammer for the ones in the ramp and a flat ended punch for the ones on the other side. I use a 5/16 hardened steel dowel pin for both. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPM8shot Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Smith 52 , I have not been on the forum in a bit thus the late reply. I also have/had a 625 (that I love alot) that skiped a cylinder if I (IPSC) shoot it. I have posted my tale on a couple of forums over the past 10 years. I have battled with a skipping cylinder since 2001. I had the weapon back to the factory 4X, replaced 2 frames (At my expense) 1 hammer pivot stud, replaced ALL of the internals 2X. The only things the factory did not replace were the cylinder and star (which I asked them to change). In the end, and this is not a knock against the factory, they said "It is something that you are doing wrong" I put that revolver away for 6 years, really it sat on my coffee table and was used by many for dryfire practice. Well, fast forward again I got ahold of an old friend. Mr Randy Lee of APEX TACTICAL. I explained my problem and actually got to show him the concern. APEX said "No problem leave it with me for a bit" so I did. I received a call while on travel that my 625 was "DONE". My 625 is now an APEX TACTICAL stage 3 build with a Titanium Cylinder. (walterMITTY said it best, yes there was much weeping and gnashing of teeth.) I like the feel of the titanium cylinder,the weapon balances different but a bunch of dryfire drills fixed that. I am working on my trigger speed, At one time my brother and I could rap off a .12-.14 split time. So far the 625 has not missed a beat. You my want to look into the titanium cylinder, (Oh and YES the Cylinder and Star have now been changed) Regards, Randy ICORE CA8491 USPSA A27966 S&W 625 APEX TACTICAL S&W 686 7 shot Performance Center S&W 627 8 shot Performance Center S&W 586 No dash Mr Bob Miles Action Job S&W 681 (Home Defense, All stock) S&W Model 29 (RPM 8 Shot 38 super) Mr Charlie Prest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Since RPM8shot commented today, I'll give it my two cents too. 52, have you confirmed that the cylinder stop is extending out of the frame enough to bottom in the cut in the cylinder? It can be massaged to extend further, so to speak. :^) Also, you want to confirm that the conical cut that leads into the cyl-stop-cut in the cylinder is deep enough. You might compare it to a cylinder on a 625 that doesn't skip. If nothing else, I'd suggest you polish that area nicely (being careful not to round off the cut edges) to let the stop follow the conical cut down into the stop-cut easily. I may have known what these areas and parts were called years ago, but I don't remember. :^) If you've already solved the problem, I'd be interested to know your solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrick Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I usually keep my 2 cents worth to myself but what I have found does not seem to be addressed in any search for an answer to "Skip Chambers."I too have been the victim of this issue and it cost me my class at the Revo Nationals this year. Gun shot flawlessly in several major matches but at the Nationals, it suddenly started to throw by. I replaced the cylinder, fitted stop, stop spring etc., and the gun ran fine for two local matches. Then Skip reappeared. I resolved to micro study this problem before I threw it into scrap metal bucket. What I found was that the replacement cylinder did not have the grooves for the stop machined in the right position for the stop to start to fall before entering the stop notch. In effect, the stop was still at the highest point on the cylinder just before it entered the stop notch. Going slow, the gun worked fine. Going fast, the stop never had a real chance to drop into the stop notch. The machining difference was measurable not by thousandths but by fractions of an inch. Would you believe 3/16 of an inch difference! Mr. Dremel, some quarter round stone and polish was applied and the grooves recut. Skip left town. Not all S&W cylinders are cut alike even if they are, allegedly, drop in. Look at the line traced by the cylinder stop on the outside of the cylinder. If it lines up with the groove, never mind, if it is offset from the groove, you now know what to do. Give this a look!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 It is definitely skipping, I marked the cylinder notches to verify. I had a fellow revo shooter here in Indiana recommend that I check for the burr on the ramp side of cylinder notches, I will start there. Thanks for the info, I'll report back.The flat edge of the cylinder notch also peens and can raise an edge that has to be filed or pressed down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 What I found was that the replacement cylinder did not have the grooves for the stop machined in the right position for the stop to start to fall before entering the stop notch. In effect, the stop was still at the highest point on the cylinder just before it entered the stop notch. Good catch. This was actually one of the design changes between the 625-2 and 625-3 series. But, as anyone with any history dealing with S&W knows, they never throw anything away at the factory, and it's not uncommon for them to discover a drawer full of old parts and use and/or sell them to the public. It sounds to me like you got a hold of one of those old circa-'88 cylinders. Let me ask...do the chambers seem tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrick Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Mike, Lots of respect to you in your shooting and smithing abilities. This was a newer Smith 625-8 with the shorter cylinder than the 625 -2 that you mention. May be hard to believe that even the newer models have production run differences that cause problems when replacing parts. Chambers are as tight as the original, just the stop notch groove is out of wack. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Yeah, they should have gotten that problem fixed by now. Anybody else get the idea they are mostly focused on polymer pistols at the S&W factory these days? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Their lack of focus on revolvers certainly hasn't been carried over in their pricing. Pricing is nuts right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z40acp Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 The OP's gun is too new for this one but in case someone later does a search for skipping. My 629 started skipping and it ended up being a problem with the floating hand. At least thats what they told me. It was a late 80's gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 The OP's gun is too new for this one but in case someone later does a search for skipping. My 629 started skipping and it ended up being a problem with the floating hand. At least thats what they told me. It was a late 80's gun. I could be wrong, but I don't think a floating hand would cause skipping problems. In fact, I have never seen any functioning problems caused by the floating hand--it just has a tendency to create problems with the feel of the DA trigger pull. Regardless, the late '80s was not a good time period for S&W in terms of design or QC. I try to avoid revolvers of that vintage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I am really new at revolver and had my revolver skip cylinders a couple of times at the last match. Can you rotate past a cylinder if you hesitate during a trigger pull? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I am really new at revolver and had my revolver skip cylinders a couple of times at the last match. Can you rotate past a cylinder if you hesitate during a trigger pull? Did the gun skip, or did you short stroke it? 2 very different issues. If you think you may have short stroked it, what rebound spring are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I am uncertain, it only has happened during matches, so I am focused on other things. All I certain is that the gun went bang seven times before I was surprised by a click, and when I inspected the clip the remaining round had no primer strike at all. If I was just short stroking it wouldn't it just not have gone off in the middle of the clip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I am uncertain, it only has happened during matches, so I am focused on other things. All I certain is that the gun went bang seven times before I was surprised by a click, and when I inspected the clip the remaining round had no primer strike at all. If I was just short stroking it wouldn't it just not have gone off in the middle of the clip? Yes sounds like you short stroked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911Prof Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 After shooting open exclusively for years, it is really difficult to get used to how far my trigger finger has to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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