Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Tungsten guide rod insert


xdmjohn

Recommended Posts

Has anyone tried a heavier guide rod (tungsten,solid) to help flatten out muzzle rise? Was thinking of trying it in my XDM 40 5.25 for use in USPSA limited but havent found any results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out Canyon Creek for solid tungsten guide rods, 3/8" diameter rods(4.1 ounces) use the factory size spring and 5/16" diameter rods(3.1 ounces) use 1911 recoil springs.

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought some tungston weights off amazon and had to turn them down a hair to fit my 5.25. Filled it full and used solder to fill it and make it solid. Or you can buy one. Seemed to help me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out Canyon Creek for solid tungsten guide rods, 3/8" diameter rods(4.1 ounces) use the factory size spring and 5/16" diameter rods(3.1 ounces) use 1911 recoil springs.

Rich

I have them in my XD's. I like the extra weight. Balances better for me.

I got them directly from Canyon Creek.

Rich does a great job on them,(and everything else,too).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the CC 3/8" tungsten rod. Works well. It weighs in at the advertised weight of 4.2oz. I use it on my XDm 5.25 for Limited.

For my Production Xdm, I took an old tungsten carbide end mill and ground it down a little smaller than the inner diameter of the OEM guide rod. Mixed up some JB Weld and slapped that sucker in there. The OEM rod works great for this as the hole at the end of the rod serves as a weep hole when sliding the JB Weld covered rod in. The final weight was 3.4 oz which makes my Production rig just barely make weight.

Don't mess around with powdered tungsten in the OEM rod like some people recommend. The end weight is almost exactly the same as filling it with lead.

I'd like to see someone make a 100% tungsten guide rod to get that sucker as heavy as possible. I've been toying with the idea of ordering a blank end mill rod from MSC and making myself a full length tungsten rod for the 5.25 on the grinder. I think that a 100% tungsten rod for the 5.25 would weigh at least 6oz.

If there were enough demand for it, I would PM the parts and crank those suckers out.

While we're talking about tungsten, I would also love to see someone make a tungsten magwell. If you can't tell, I dream about tungsten XDm parts.

Edited by d_striker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the CC 3/8" tungsten rod. Works well. It weighs in at the advertised weight of 4.2oz. I use it on my XDm 5.25 for Limited.

For my Production Xdm, I took an old tungsten carbide end mill and ground it down a little smaller than the inner diameter of the OEM guide rod. Mixed up some JB Weld and slapped that sucker in there. The OEM rod works great for this as the hole at the end of the rod serves as a weep hole when sliding the JB Weld covered rod in. The final weight was 3.4 oz which makes my Production rig just barely make weight.

Don't mess around with powdered tungsten in the OEM rod like some people recommend. The end weight is almost exactly the same as filling it with lead.

I'd like to see someone make a 100% tungsten guide rod to get that sucker as heavy as possible. I've been toying with the idea of ordering a blank end mill rod from MSC and making myself a full length tungsten rod for the 5.25 on the grinder. I think that a 100% tungsten rod for the 5.25 would weigh at least 6oz.

If there were enough demand for it, I would PM the parts and crank those suckers out.

While we're talking about tungsten, I would also love to see someone make a tungsten magwell. If you can't tell, I dream about tungsten XDm parts.

The .45 acp Tactical guide rod I make can be fitted into the 5.25 guns, the lower barrel lug needs to have a small concave cut made for it to drop in. This rod weighs 4.7 ounces+-, several shooters are using this rod for Bianchi Cup shooting. To get a 6 ounce rod it will extend beyond the end of the muzzle.

Solid one piece tungsten rods just aren't worth it.

The weight increase is so small, the cost of a larger diameter rod, and the machining puts this way too high in cost that no one would buy them. The tungsten isn't as durable as a tool steel guide rod head. Straight tungsten will chip at the edges over time if it would be used for the head, the tool steel head is the way to go. Filling the factory guide rod will never weigh as much as a solid rod, it's a cheap way to gain some weight but if your looking for the maximun weight benefit a solid rod is the way to go.

Way back when Beven made tungsten mag wells for the S_I frames, a 6 and 9 ounce well was available and they sold for over $275.00. That was before tungsten took a big price jump, it has gone up from 45% to 85% increase depending on the alloy mix.

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solid one piece tungsten rods just aren't worth it.

The weight increase is so small, the cost of a larger diameter rod, and the machining puts this way too high in cost that no one would buy them. The tungsten isn't as durable as a tool steel guide rod head. Straight tungsten will chip at the edges over time if it would be used for the head, the tool steel head is the way to go. Filling the factory guide rod will never weigh as much as a solid rod, it's a cheap way to gain some weight but if your looking for the maximun weight benefit a solid rod is the way to go.

I agree that it would not be cost effective to machine a solid tungsten carbide guide rod for production. You can't turn it and the only way to shape it is on a grinder. However, PM'd parts would take the machining element out of it.

I know what you're implying but I don't think it is accurate to say that TC is not as "durable" as tool steel. Durability can mean different things and is completely dependent on the context in which it is being used. TC is more brittle than steel but it's much harder. I could take an average file across your steel cased tungsten guide rod and the file would easily etch the surface. Take the hardest file you have and it won't even make a scratch on a TC rod.

The brittleness of TC would be a factor if the guide rod were exposed to substantial impact or stress. I'm not pretending to be an expert and am not certain if recoil would be enough stress to start chipping or shatter a solid TC rod. I would hate to take the time to grind down a solid TC rod only to have it break from the forces that it is subjected to in recoil. Do you think that a solid TC guide rod would be too brittle?

Edited by d_striker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=167&categoryId=5

We make a 1.9 oz insert system. There is a big difference between heavy enough and too heavy when it comes to starting and stopping the pistol (ie transitions) so the weight you prefer will have a lot to do with how strong you are and how sensitive to recoil you are. A heavy gun will be softer, but takes more effort to start and stop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solid one piece tungsten rods just aren't worth it.

The weight increase is so small, the cost of a larger diameter rod, and the machining puts this way too high in cost that no one would buy them. The tungsten isn't as durable as a tool steel guide rod head. Straight tungsten will chip at the edges over time if it would be used for the head, the tool steel head is the way to go. Filling the factory guide rod will never weigh as much as a solid rod, it's a cheap way to gain some weight but if your looking for the maximun weight benefit a solid rod is the way to go.

The brittleness of TC would be a factor if the guide rod were exposed to substantial impact or stress. I'm not pretending to be an expert and am not certain if recoil would be enough stress to start chipping or shatter a solid TC rod. I would hate to take the time to grind down a solid TC rod only to have it break from the forces that it is subjected to in recoil. Do you think that a solid TC guide rod would be too brittle?

Tungsten carbide will be too brittle.

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a heavy rod from Phosphor Bronze (alloy 510). Not sure what the final weight is but, it's heavier than steel by a small margin. The material also has very good strength and exceptional wear properties. I may make another a couple inches longer than the original for added weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=167&categoryId=5

We make a 1.9 oz insert system. There is a big difference between heavy enough and too heavy when it comes to starting and stopping the pistol (ie transitions) so the weight you prefer will have a lot to do with how strong you are and how sensitive to recoil you are. A heavy gun will be softer, but takes more effort to start and stop.

I bought one of these along with a recoil spring kit. I took it out to the range and blasted away 6 rounds at a time as fast as I could. I was really surprised at the difference. It's now my favorite trick... I just aim a little about 2" right of center and can put 6 in the A zone (almost) every time now. I wish someone could explain what the two weights and the little spring do... All I know is it works.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=167&categoryId=5

We make a 1.9 oz insert system. There is a big difference between heavy enough and too heavy when it comes to starting and stopping the pistol (ie transitions) so the weight you prefer will have a lot to do with how strong you are and how sensitive to recoil you are. A heavy gun will be softer, but takes more effort to start and stop.

I bought one of these along with a recoil spring kit. I took it out to the range and blasted away 6 rounds at a time as fast as I could. I was really surprised at the difference. It's now my favorite trick... I just aim a little about 2" right of center and can put 6 in the A zone (almost) every time now. I wish someone could explain what the two weights and the little spring do... All I know is it works.

It keep the guide rod in the legal weight for USPSA and absorbs energy as you shoot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://shop.springerprecision.com/product.sc?productId=167&categoryId=5

We make a 1.9 oz insert system. There is a big difference between heavy enough and too heavy when it comes to starting and stopping the pistol (ie transitions) so the weight you prefer will have a lot to do with how strong you are and how sensitive to recoil you are. A heavy gun will be softer, but takes more effort to start and stop.

I bought one of these along with a recoil spring kit. I took it out to the range and blasted away 6 rounds at a time as fast as I could. I was really surprised at the difference. It's now my favorite trick... I just aim a little about 2" right of center and can put 6 in the A zone (almost) every time now. I wish someone could explain what the two weights and the little spring do... All I know is it works.

It keep the guide rod in the legal weight for USPSA and absorbs energy as you shoot.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...